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Ford 2.3 installed

Charles Johns

Donation Time
These pictures show the 2.3 is in a well centered position side-to-side and front-to-back. I have it low but not so low it is exposed to road debris. The carb is level with the angle finder only off about 1/2 of one degree. That can be fixed, though not necessary, when I mount the tranny. The chalk lines on the firewall show the car center as related to the engine cam cover. The intake was modified to clear the steering box, the notched crossmember shows about 1/4" crank pulley clearance, and the rear of the block clears the steering tie-link. I have ordered the modified link from Dan as my Christmas gift to ME.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
IMG_2246, IMG_2247, IMG_2248, IMG_2249, IMG_2250, IMG_2251, IMG_2252, IMG_2253, IMG_2254, IMG_2255
 

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Charles Johns

Donation Time
I ordered a remote oil filter kit even though I set the engine so a small filter would fit, but it is smaller than the original. For that reason I am mounting the oil filter remotely on the fender well. With the A4LD automatic I am anxious to see how much floor I need to remove for clearance. The fitting of mounts, shifter, linkage, oil lines, and wires is always a BIG DEAL. I do have a trans-cooler to mount where the OEM oil cooler was mounted low by the radiator opening. Next week I will probably put the car on jack stands for room under the car for tranny work. With Christmas coming things may slow down.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Looking good so far. You will be amazed how fast the "extra" space will vanish. Where will the exhaust go, between the motor mount and crossmember? That was a big issue with my installations, compounded by my limited (read non-existent) ability to visualize in 3 dimensions. The flat four into one collector was my salvation. I can visualize a bunch of bananas, no problem.

Bill
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
I see the Anchor 2424 Rubber Biscuits worked nicely!

My engine mounts may have been a near perfect fit too:)

Guess I need to take a good look at your work if I ever get out your way again?

Sure glad you are doing well,
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
The header will dump behind the motor mount into a 4-into-1 collector, then into a single 2.5" pipe. With the firing order being 1342 I will clock the header tubes in a circle making a swirl effect as they exit. Using a small straight-thru muffler should make for very little back-pressure. A 2-barrel intake feeding a good aluminum smooth runner manifold, that feeds the mixture to a mild cam head being ignited by a hot ignition, with little backpressure, should make a good TORQUE motor. Throw in an overdrive transmission and taller driving tires, should make great MPG. At least that is what I am trying to achieve.
I see the Anchor 2424 Rubber Biscuits worked nicely!

My engine mounts may have been a near perfect fit too:)

Guess I need to take a good look at your work if I ever get out your way again?

Sure glad you are doing well,
I see the Anchor 2424 Rubber Biscuits worked nicely!

My engine mounts may have been a near perfect fit too:)

Guess I need to take a good look at your work if I ever get out your way again?

Sure glad you are doing well,
YES, the rubber mounts work great. It was much harder to get the motor centered than I thought, but I finally got it done. Making room for steering clearance, radiator clearance, exhaust room (Header), and intake clearance was every bit as hard a V8. AND YES Bill, space is disappearing fast for other things. I may not have room for Air Conditioning...but the wife demands it. I don't really care though it is nice, and she usually wins.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
That exhaust path gets pretty tight, dodging the steering arms and starter. That is where my exhaust goes, but I could not see a way to get 4 pipes through. But I don't have as much room as you do. The oil pan on the D'tec is 14" wide and the rails are only about 20" apart. That means every things gotta give. I would look at the exhaust and immediately get a headache.

You might look at the Dyno Max Super Turbo muffler. It is not straight thru, but has no baffles. Low back pressure and good noise control. Probably about as loud as a stock Alpine exhaust. I've had one (2" in and out) for about five years and really like it. Not as loud as the generic muffler shop turbo muffler.

Bill
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill, I am having trouble finding an alternator bracket for a 2.3. I don't know what years interchange...do you? It needs to be a driver-side mount, but either side is better than none. I think the one I need (would work best) is called the high-mount, and I think the 2.0 and 2.3 blocks are very similar. My header will already have the 4-pipes into a 3" collector BEFORE it gets to the "tight" area, so I should have plenty of room...relatively speaking.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
No idea. I never used a Ford alternator. It's been too long ago. but the best I can remember, I made all of my brackets. That may be somewhat like the statement "I had to walk two miles to school and it was uphill both ways", but I can't recall being able to use stock brackets. I did modify a 2.0 alternator bracket to mount an AC compressor.

Bill
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I will probably need to design and fabricate a bracket but I will first eliminate the factory one. Before moving I had lots of brackets off various engines for power steering, air compressors, and alternators, and could have adapted one I am sure. NOW, I start from scratch and my "scratching" ain't what it used to be. Designing and fabrication were MY THING for years, but MY THING ain't what it used to be either. That didn't come out right, but you get my drift about age and building. Working until 2 AM then going to work at 7 AM is out of the question now. I want the Sunbeam to be as good as any car I ever built, but I realize it will take longer than when I was 30...or even 50. The journey is well on its way.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I see the Anchor 2424 Rubber Biscuits worked nicely!

My engine mounts may have been a near perfect fit too:)

Guess I need to take a good look at your work if I ever get out your way again?

Sure glad you are doing well,
Dan. if you get to my area definitely stop in for a visit. Bill Blue did and he left in one piece, even after I drove his car...with his permission of course. I am always glad to visit with car people.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I see the Anchor 2424 Rubber Biscuits worked nicely!

My engine mounts may have been a near perfect fit too:)

Guess I need to take a good look at your work if I ever get out your way again?

Sure glad you are doing well,
Dan. if you get to my area definitely stop in for a visit. Bill Blue did and he left in one piece, even after I drove his car...with his permission of course. I am always glad to visit with car people.
Dan, I got the steering crossbar. It looks nice and well made. THANKS.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Dan, after over 50 years building and driving Street Rods, I understand the effort one must put forth to make parts...especially to sell. Many years ago a very rich man built me a 4-bay shop in my back yard so I could build cars just for him. I did for several years and educated him on the pitfalls of car building. We drove our cars all over the southern US with zero problems. One of the best parts was his true interest in how and why things were done. I am a big proponent of KISS or Keep It Simple Stupid, and that kept us rolling down the highway and not broke beside the road. The latest whiz-bang part my be fine but not for your car. So THINK before installing it. My Sunbeam will be simple, functional, good looking (to me), and fun to drive. That is why I build cars. With a limited budget funds must be spent wisely, and your steering link solves a problem at a reasonable price. Once it is on the road I will drive the wheels off it with a smile on my face...which is the real reason we like "special" cars. A friend was in my 65 Mustang with me when a guy pulled along side giving us a big thumbs-up. I asked my friend, "Did anyone ever do that to you as you drove you chevy 4-door sedan?" FUN, FUNNER, FUNNEST...it still sounds right.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Charles, will Dan's steering link allow you to set the engine even farther back, or does it solve a current issue?

Bill
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill, the motor is IN and fixed in position. It is as far back as I could get it without major work to install a rack-and-pinion. No doubt that would be the best but all that I have seen have Akerman problems, and I did not want to spend a month designing my own. I did give thought to one of the Street Rod racks, but just not worth the trouble to me. Dan's cross-link will do the job. My plan to use a remote oil filter seems to be too much trouble also, due to location issues. Before deciding to do that I found a small filter that works but wanted more filtering area, but it looks like the small one it is. After the holidays I'll jack the Sunbeam up on stands and start on the tranny, which should be fun with linkage, oil lines, mounting the cooler, fabricating brackets, etc. Then once the tranny is in, HELLO exhaust fabrication. I have room for several styles of header but really want a syphon system where the pipes enter the collector in sequence (think clock/firing 1-3-4-2 in a circle) to create a syphon into the collector which creates the least back pressure. The engine is built for torque at street rpm with the carb sized for that purpose, so exhaust will also be a street system, though sporty car loud. I am leaving room on the passenger side for air conditioning compressor, dryer, and lines, which will also be where the heater lines will be. As you guys know, this is a building block exercise, and doing things in order helps. One thing for sure, there will be a big hole in the floor to clear the A4LD. Thankfully I found a good sheet-metal man locally. I don't like the battery location under carpet with possible luggage on top, so I may put it in the trunk. Anyone us the battery box for tool storage? Just a thought.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Charles, the stock battery location is unconventional, but it works. It is very well protected, being fully enclosed in sheet metal. Rig up something to keep it from moving around in the box and all should be well. Typically, when batteries are installed in the trunk, they are in a front corner, which as far as I can see, is probably worse than the rear seat location. Certainly not as convenient and just as likely to be buried under luggage, tools and whatever else gets tossed into the boot. Furthermore, unless it sets in its own box, it is exposed to more abuse than in the stock location.

Bill
 
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