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Engine stalling problem - SOLVED!

GT-3_InTheHills

Donation Time
My 1963 Series III recently had a complete engine rebuild.
It needed only the twin Carbs tuned and the timing adjusted, or so I thought.

The car is an older restoration from a previous owner which had been kept very much to original spec with points & condenser, rebuilt dual zenith carbs, and a newly restored mechanical fuel pump. After everything was re-assembled and the engine roared back to life, the time finally arrived to take it out for a few road tests. It appeared that every time I would get the motor warmed up, it would lose power and sputter to a stop. This was an ongoing issue that was driving me mad!

Being more of an enthusiast than a professional mechanic, I researched what I could and initially determined this mysterious issue must be due to Vapour Lock!. In my self-declared problem-solving brilliance, I was convinced the fuel must be vaporizing in the lines, creating back pressure in the fuel pump and subsequently starving the carburetors of fuel!

Then, just by chance, I caught sight of the cheap little transparent in-line fuel filter that was installed by the previous owner just ahead of the mechanical fuel pump. It looked a wee bit discolored. Upon replacing it, I realized it was caked with reddish-brown sludge!

Finally - problem SOLVED!
(RUSTY FUEL TANKS)

(Attached are the pictures of the surprise I found inside the dual fuel tanks and cross-over pipes!)
Both tanks & pipes are currently being professionally reconditioned.
Has anyone ever seen anything like this before?

RUSTY_FLAKES.JPG CROSS_OVER_PIPE.JPG FUEL_TANK.JPG
 
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GT-3_InTheHills

Donation Time
I received my NEW fuel tank sending unit!
I'm shocked to see this replacement unit has an exposed electrical wire!
Q- Does passing a current through a device that sits inside the top of a fuel tank not pose a HUGE safety hazard?
(The old unit is sealed with no exposed wires to be seen).

The new one is of course stamped "made in the UK" as expected, however. . . . I'm just a bit concerned whether I need to worry about the infamous British sense of humor if I install this thing?


IMG-2278.JPG IMG-2279.JPG
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
If I recall correctly, the wire going to the tank sending unit is a grounding wire, not a power wire. Essentially, the sending unit sends back a varying ground level, which is then reflected in the gauge.

As for the tanks, yes, rusty tanks - as well as delaminating tanks - are common in Sunbeams (and a whole lot of other cars!). Good you found the source.
 

GT-3_InTheHills

Donation Time
If I recall correctly, the wire going to the tank sending unit is a grounding wire, not a power wire. Essentially, the sending unit sends back a varying ground level, which is then reflected in the gauge.

As for the tanks, yes, rusty tanks - as well as delaminating tanks - are common in Sunbeams (and a whole lot of other cars!). Good you found the source.

I'm very relieved to hear this exposed wire on the new sending unit is likely a ground. When it comes to electrical connections, I'm a bit of an amateur and cautiously hesitant after once losing my Saab 900SE turbo to an electrical fire (while driving). Personally experiencing a KABOOM, leaves one with a lasting impression.
 
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GT-3_InTheHills

Donation Time
Removing the old tanks is a fairly simple process. A bit time-consuming, but not rocket science.
Having never done anything like this before by myself, I had no idea if my tanks were even capable of being saved because they were in really BAD condition. To my surprise and sheer delight, I just picked up my tanks and they look almost like new!
Sandblasted, welded, and freshly coated inside and out.

IMG-2281.JPG
 

Shannon Boal

Platinum Level Sponsor
The "Kaboom" thing surely would stay with you! Most modern cars, run a brush-type electric motor integral with a vane-type fuel pump, submerged in gasoline. Why this works is a puzzle to me.....
 
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