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DuraPine II

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
Today I'm putting the finishing touches on the intake manifold. Goodness sakes, you say. "Why is he messing around with the intake manifold". Listen carefully children. It is an excellent example of "You can't change just one thing". Or one change leads to another.

The new Alpine came with Tiger style steering (poorly) installed. I decided to stay with it I was impressed with easy the (only) Tiger I have driven driven. Okay, so your going with a front steer setup, why mess with the intake? Well, the alternator was in the way of the rack and pinion steering shaft. The only available spot for the alternator is high on the right hand side engine block. Problem: There is no clearance between between the block and the inner fender with the engine laid over to the right. So the engine has to be upright, almost 90 degrees. That makes it tall, too tall for the intake manifold to clear the hood. Boss says"No holes in the hood". Lowered the manifold the most I could, 3/16", not enough. The throttle plate assembly sill hit the hood. Shortened the intake runners as much as I thought I could without drastically altering performance. Still not enough. Shortened the "throat" between the throttle plate assembly and the plenum down to zero. BINGO. That last step removed some important plumbing, which had to be restored. By the way, lowering the intake manifold required ditching the coil on plug ignition and using the Ranger valve cover, which required installing a dipstick hole in said cover.

Anyway, while messing with the manifold I cleaned up the air passage a bit. Here is the finished job, ready for paint.
View attachment 22025
The large opening is for the PVC and Idle Air. The little one is the reference port for the Fuel Pressure Regulator and MegaSquirt Manifold Pressure Sensor.

View attachment 22026
Here you can see inside the plenum. The sensor port is in front and slightly to the left of the air port.

Bill
No holes. But how about a MGC style hood? Or a slight bulge where needed?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
A fake hood scoop or Gurney bump would be fine by me, but not Barb. Since I'm doing this mostly for her, that's the direction I took. I think it will work out okay.

Bill
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Doesn't look like the tube is the offender..... It's the Compressor pulley:)

There is always something else that gets in the way of the plan, Huh ?
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
This is what I did, two birds one stone.
i-8jN9ntv-XL.jpg

i-3Bv25hx-XL.jpg
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I've considered that solution but am at a loss as to how to make an accurate cut. Currently thinking about carving an elbow out of a block of aluminum. Doing so would allow me to transition the 1 1/2" inlet to 1 3/8" to match the engine outlet.

Bill
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
I've considered that solution but am at a loss as to how to make an accurate cut. Currently thinking about carving an elbow out of a block of aluminum. Doing so would allow me to transition the 1 1/2" inlet to 1 3/8" to match the engine outlet.

Bill
Buy a 90deg ally bend from summit and roll the edge down to 1.375 actually1.375 should be a slip fit in 1.50 or I've got a 1.375 ally ,90 I'll peddle.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
The elbows I saw at Summit were not tight enough. I doubt that any formed elbow would be. There is only 2 3/4" between the radiator and the pulley. Maybe a 1 3/8 elbow should be a slip fit, but it isn't. The 1 1/2" outlet has a 1 1/4" I.D.
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
The elbows I saw at Summit were not tight enough. I doubt that any formed elbow would be. There is only 2 3/4" between the radiator and the pulley. Maybe a 1 3/8 elbow should be a slip fit, but it isn't. The 1 1/2" outlet has a 1 1/4" I.D.
Well then. There ya go.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Is there room to move it to the side?
Not enough room to move anything enough to remedy the problem. The A/C compressor is against the fender rails, so it cannot move out. Moving it toward the engine will do nothing. And of course, the radiator is where it has to be unless surgery is done to move it forward. It cannot move sideways enough for the neck to clear the pulley due to the front frame rails.
Bill
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
Not enough room to move anything enough to remedy the problem. The A/C compressor is against the fender rails, so it cannot move out. Moving it toward the engine will do nothing. And of course, the radiator is where it has to be unless surgery is done to move it forward. It cannot move sideways enough for the neck to clear the pulley due to the front frame rails.
Bill



Bill,

I think Mike was talking about moving the radiator inlet connection from the top / back of the side tank to the top /outside of the side tank and pointing to the outside. Unless there is something blocking that location, it makes sense to me.
 
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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, that is good thinking and would probably work. The 180 degree bend would present an interesting, but probably solvable problem as it too would have to clear the pulley. However, it puts the upper hose in a fight with the heater and A/C hoses. Damn A/C! If it weren't for A/C there would be no problem.

Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, it is the hot water line. However, the radiator is a cross flow with an internal partition. Water enters at the top left, flows to the right, then drops into the bottom half and flows back to the left and the outlet. I don't think it would operate correctly with inlet on the top right and outlet on the bottom left.

Bill.
 

Fergusonic

Donation Time
Jegs: 511176 Aluminum Radiator connector 1 1/2" dia .
Cut it off right before it's weld and then weld it onto your radiator? or 511175 = 1 1/4"
 
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