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Cylinder #5 saga?kicking my butt.

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
From Duke's first post:

I figured that it was an ignition problem with a weak spark. I have replaced the distributer, running an Accel electronic module, replaced cap, rotor, wires and many spark plugs. I have determined that the plug is producing a good spark.

:rolleyes:
 

64beam

Donation Time
From Duke's first post:

I figured that it was an ignition problem with a weak spark. I have replaced the distributer, running an Accel electronic module, replaced cap, rotor, wires and many spark plugs. I have determined that the plug is producing a good spark.

:rolleyes:

Hi,

If you read the first post that Duke posted, he stated that his compression was down also. If it's possibly an ignition fault, would'nt the compression reading be the same?

Thanks, Robin.
 

Duke

Donation Time
Still have a problem with #5 getting fouled. The engine now has a definite miss due to this.

I believe it is a lifter/oil pressure problem. I tried flushing the engine and then using Rislone. No help.

Next month I will pull the heads to have them checked, replace the lifters and the oil pump. Will also paint the engine the correct color and may porcelain coat the exhaust manifolds ;)

Currently when the engine is cold, oil pressure is between 75-100 psi. Once the engine is up to running temp, 50-75 psi. Something can not be right about the pumps relief valve.
 

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Duke,

Your oil pressure is very high :eek: . Have you checked that your pressure relief valve is working correctly or that your pressure gauge is showing the correct reading?

Regards, Robin.
 

Duke

Donation Time
Have you checked that your pressure relief valve is working correctly or that your pressure gauge is showing the correct reading?

I am pulling the oil pump next month and have not checked the OPG. The gauge goes to 0 and moves smoothly throught its range, I assume it is reading correctly.
 

Duke

Donation Time
Took the tools to the Tiger today to get the engine healthy again.

The strip down.
OT1s.JPG



Intake manifold off, was quite a challenge to get the rear bolt off. I discovered that the PO used a stud on the back driver side so I had to use vise grips to carefully unscrew it and then the manifold was able to be removed.
OT2s.JPG



First head off. The rear pushrod cannot be removed without moving the head. I will need to remember to have that pushrod in place when I install the head. The rear head bolts where a PITA too.
OT3s.JPG


Cylinders are in very good shape. It seems that the PO was telling me the truth that the engine had been rebuilt. I also verified that the heads are 1964 260 (C4OE A code). These were the last 260 heads made by Ford and have 289 valves. The PO also had screw in rocker studs and duel valve springs installed.
OT4s.JPG
 

Duke

Donation Time
I also pulled the oil pan and removed the oil pump to check it due to the very hight oil pressure (75-100 psi, cold).

Heads will go to a friend of mine Paul Burke to be checked. I will then paint everything the correct Ford blue which will make a great improvement to the engine compartment appearance. Will also be powder coating many components and having the exhaust manifolds ceramic coater insider and out.

Here is the glob of parts, all will get restoration
OT5s.JPG


Another shot with a peek of my new wall eye candy
OT6s.JPG


The heads
OT7s.JPG


A close up of the problem bank of cylinders. The #5 is on the far left
OT8s.JPG
 

Duke

Donation Time
Another corner of my new garage. I still have to build a work bench and then it will be complete. Oh...and get the small refrigerator out or the basement for "beverages".
OT9s.JPG


Whats with the 4 image limit? I had to make three posts.
 

Duke

Donation Time
Here is issue one -

OPs.jpg


The HV is for high volume. Really not necessary on this engine. I am surprised that the distributer drive shaft did not break.
 

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Duke,

Your Tiger's engine bay looks alot similar mine at the moment (except for the heads). I had the same problem with the rear intake bolts as well (torquing them down is a bit tricky). Your number five cylinder is definately badly fouled. Are you any closer to finding the cause? Were all the rods and lifters ok?

Regards, Robin.
 

Duke

Donation Time
Were all the rods and lifters ok?

Rods are good...will check and/or just replace the lifters. I am taking the heads to my engine builder today. Just from the pictures, he is thinking that the heads were never updated to hardened valve seats and that the exhaust valves and seats in general may be in bad shape. I'll keep you guys informed.
 

Duke

Donation Time
I don't know about the Tigers, but in a Mustang the 260 block was black and and the painted valve covers were light blue, not the Ford corporate blue.

This has been a lot of discussion on this. Here is what is known from those with original Tigers and the color of their engine -

Engine code - F21KA Black

Engine code - B19KC Old Ford Dark Blue

The 260 B19KC that were delivered for the Tigers were post Falcon.

I have a B19KC which should be OFB with chrome valve covers.
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
Mine was originally black, came out of the car that way and it had been sitting in various barns since the mid 70's. However, that didn't prevent me from painting the block and heads OFB, just liked the look of it better.
 

Duke

Donation Time
Took the heads to my friend Paul yesterday. He removed all of the valves and here is the result.

Completely trashed valve job, the kind you get a mom & pop auto parts store for $75. All valves will need to be replaced and hardened exhaust valve seats installed. Looking at the valve seats, I am amazed that the engine ran at all.

All is good though. It is a SBF and the parts are dirt cheap. Actually, will be using some larger Chevy intake valves due to excessively sunk valve seats ;>)

So the lifters will stay. Leaky valves were the culprit.
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
When I did my engine I specifically specified hardened seats, bronze guides and screw in rocker studs, along with new valves and springs. I wanted to be sure I accounted for everything so I wasn't stripping them down again in the future.

At least you found the problem and it's being fixed.
 
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