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crankshaft pulley

R

robertg

Donation Time
My series V was making a werrrrring sound at high rpm. I tracked the sound to the crank pulley wobbling and causing the alternator to wobble. I have pulled and pressed on the crank pulley with my hand and it does not feel loose. My next idea is to pull the radiator and then pull the pulley off with a puller and try to reseat it correctly. My concern is getting it reseated or pressed (banged) on the shaft without damaging any bearings or other important items. Any suggestions, directions, advices or concerns would be greatly appreciated!!! A weekend project?

Thanks in advance, Bob
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
You just need to get the pulley on the crank snout past the keyway.

After you tighten the crank bolt with an impact wrench, you can be very sure the pulley is fully mated to the crank snout.

If you dont use an impact wrench, we'll be having this discussion again soon when the pulley cracks at the keyway again.
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bob,

It's not clear to me. Are you replacing the pully with a new one? or just putting the old one back on but making it tighter? I think you need a new one. If the old one wobbled, it probably wore the keyway too loose to trust. I think Rootes Racer was assuming you were replacing it

Tom H
 
R

robertg

Donation Time
Tom, I just now have seen that it does not spin level but wobbles. I am really asking whether I can pull and replace the pulley without pulling the engine and how is the best way to get it off and back on the shaft? Thanks Bob
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bob,

Yes, you can replace it without pulling the engine, just as you describe. BUT you'll need to check on the condition of the woodruff key and slot in the crankshaft. If the key and crank slot are fine, then you just need a new pulley. And you need only to start the pulley onto the crank and then use the bolt to pull it on fully. No need to bang on anything.

Tom
 
R

robertg

Donation Time
Thanks for the help! I will pull it this weekend and see what the problem is and probable ask some more questions. Take care Bob
 
R

robertg

Donation Time
I pulled the pulley off the end of the crankshaft and found that the pulley had about one quarter inch left that was not on the shaft when the end bolt was srewed down. Once the end bolt was off I could pull the pulley off the shaft by hand. It can't be right to not fully seat to the end of the shaft and to be able to be pulled off by hand. Any ideas? The pulley looks to be the same one that is on my other V Sunbeam. Thanks in advance Bob
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
As Jan said, the pully does not go flush. That's to assure that the bolt has the pully hub fully compressed onto the shaft.

The key items to look closely at are :
1) The key in the crankshaft- is it still very square, unbent, not worn, undistorted.
2) The slot in the crankshaft for the key. Is the key still wedged firmly in the keyway or does it wobble a bit and can be pulled out fairly easily? If so that's a problem. It should be so tight as to almost defy removal.
3) The slot in the pully. Hopefully all the "slop" is in the slot in the pully and all you need to do is replace the pully with a new one.

It seems highly unlikely that you only need to put the same pully back on and tighten the bolt. If you are lucky, all the slop is in the slot in the pully itself.

If the key is worn, but not loose in the crankshaft, it can also be replaced. I think someone just recently posted that he had some spares. If the key is loose in the crank, maybe someone else here has some remedy. Loktite?

Tom H
 
R

robertg

Donation Time
The key looks fine and I can not get it to move with needle nose pliers. Once I examined the pulley I could see a hairline crack in the keyway of the pulley housing (along one side of the channel). I guess that is the reason for the loose fit and wobble.

You all sure put my mind at ease, I thought I had a real mess when the pulley didn't mount flush and it was loose.

Do you know a source for a new pulley and harmonic balance? I have a friend that has few cars and motors that may have a decent one.

Thanks, Bob
 
RootesRooter

RootesRooter

Donation Time
I bot a repro from SS several years ago. Top quality. The fit to the crank is much more exact - you'll need a puller to get it off in the future.

Make sure the bolt is tight tho. Crescent wrenches won't do. The stock bolt is a 1-1/4" Whitworth size - which corresponds to just under 1-5/16" SAE. It's tough to find this in a 6-point deep socket.
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
The Alloy repop one is very nice. I always put them on with the impact wrench think a 33 mm is also a very close fit
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Jim E said:
The Alloy repop one is very nice. I always put them on with the impact wrench think a 33 mm is also a very close fit
Click to expand...

Someone was whining a while back that the alloy one got sloppy on its keyway after a short time (or cracked, I dont recall).

Perhaps he didnt tighten it down real good.
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
Hate to hear that if it is so being the late factory units are about all busted.

A Chevy balancer will fit if you replace the seal in the cover and figure out pulleys.
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Jim E said:
Hate to hear that if it is so being the late factory units are about all busted.

A Chevy balancer will fit if you replace the seal in the cover and figure out pulleys.
Click to expand...

You know there are two versions of the balancer (from rootes bits anyhow).

The original iron balancer, which seems to work just fine if its tightened down with an impact gun, and an aluminum alloy unit that doesnt use an elastomer ring.

Its the latter one that someone said something about a failure.

The iron ones seem just fine (Ive had one on the race motor for years now).
 
R

robertg

Donation Time
I ordered a pulley with balancer from Rootes Vintage spares because SS and Classic did not have one. But the interesting thing is yesterday I was ordering parts from Rick at SS and he said the ones that came from the factory on the crank were hand loose with 200lbs of torque on the bolt to hold them on. But when these pulleys were remachined from the original specs they were tight to the crank so apparently the orginal ones were not built to such strict tolerances.
 
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