Copper-nickel brake lines

[Toyanvil]

You will love it, the big trick is a little grease on the dies and deburring everything first. I also use mine on fuel and vent lines to make a bubble ends.
I made four, I was not sure which one I would end up using.

 

[DanR]

Those look professional as usual from you Looking forward to making nice ones also.

 

[DanR]

John, how short can they be made? Looks like a couple inches for one in the picture.

 

[jumpinjan]

...heat with a torch until it blues (annealing process), then quickly quench the piece in water. This softens the material...

Sorry, but that does nothing. Annealing? Look it up in a dictionary. Quenching in water or oil tempers the metal, so why would one do that?
Seriously, that material will not split at all. Just use it as is.
Another point here to make on SS lines. WHY? That's hot-rod junk! It is not needed at all....just a waste of time & money and looks crappy with all the kinks in the lines.
Jan

 

[Barry]

Sorry, but that does nothing. Annealing? Look it up in a dictionary. Quenching in water or oil tempers the metal, so why would one do that?
Seriously, that material will not split at all. Just use it as is.
Another point here to make on SS lines. WHY? That's hot-rod junk! It is not needed at all....just a waste of time & money and looks crappy with all the kinks in the lines.
Jan

First, the annealing of copper and high copper alloys is not the same as the annealing of iron alloys. Copper anneals when heated and quenched. To quote the late Casey Stengel, "You could look it up."

Second, it's not your car, your money or your choice.

Third, there is a saying about opinions that is applicable.

 

[Toyanvil]

Sorry, but that does nothing. Annealing? Look it up in a dictionary. Quenching in water or oil tempers the metal, so why would one do that?
Seriously, that material will not split at all. Just use it as is.
Another point here to make on SS lines. WHY? That's hot-rod junk! It is not needed at all....just a waste of time & money and looks crappy with all the kinks in the lines.
Jan

You should learn how to use Google. I paid $1.90 a foot for SS, Copper-Nickel was $2.20 a foot, making SS cheaper to buy and will last twice as long. I am not sure what you mean by "kinks" SS will not have any more bends then Copper-Nickel. The main reason I use SS lines is because I like the look and it is MY car. I have also had other car guys like it too so it's just not me.

 

[phyrman]

Sorry, but that does nothing. Annealing? Look it up in a dictionary. Quenching in water or oil tempers the metal, so why would one do that?
Seriously, that material will not split at all. Just use it as is.
Another point here to make on SS lines. WHY? That's hot-rod junk! It is not needed at all....just a waste of time & money and looks crappy with all the kinks in the lines.
Jan

Jan, it may crack due to its hardness...........from an expert mechanical engineer that deals with heat transfer and metallurgy

 

[jumpinjan]

You guys are making this so overly complicated to make brake lines, for God's sake. I made many, many new brake lines over 50 years and never had to anneal them.
I really find it amazing how & what you people do the things you do.
Jan

 

[Toyanvil]

It's sad that you think there is only one way to do something.

 

[Bill Blue]

I've seen at least two references to the limited lifetime of copper-nickle brake lines. What is the expected life of the material in the salty automotive environment?
BTW, it is not necessary to quench copper when annealing. The heat does the trick, quenching only speeds up the process.
Bill

 

[howehap]

Here is a link to Copper-Nickel automotive brake line. It discusses how it is much more corrosion resistance and it is used by many high end auto manufactures (Germany, Sweden), because of it's long life and corrosion resistance. The article also states that it is manufactured and sold in the annealed condition. I have used it and can attest that it is much easier to work with than steel tubing, it is soft, flares easily, and much less likely to kink.
https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html

 

[Bill Blue]

Yes, the stuff is a marvel to work with, but a little strange. In my experience it is very easily kinked when bending using tubing benders. Hand forming is easy and gives excellent results. I use wrench sockets as a form when bending the tubing. After the first use, I swore that I'd never buy another piece of steel tubing.

Bill

 

[Mike O'D]

Holy mackerel, $2.20 a foot for copper nickel brake line? I paid less than $20 for a 25 foot roll. Terrific to work with and very resistant to corrosion. But as they say - whatever works for you.