Jim, The reason I used a bend in the rod was because it was simply the easiest way. I realized that all I needed to do was replace the shock with a threaded rod. It seemed easiest to re-install the lower shock mount, and attach the rod to it. Easiest way to attach the rod to the lower shock mount was to bend the end to fit into one of the holes normally used to attach the shock. And just to be safe, I put a nut on the end where it stuck thru the mount, in case it straightened itself out.
I think there may be additional advantages to the bent rod. 1) You don't need to mess with a locking nut at the lower end. 2)By attaching to the shock mount, which is bolted to the lower A-Frame, you have a solid non'sliding, non wobbling, assembly right from the get-go.With a plate you need to hold the plate in alignment with one hand as you tighten the nut until it is kinda stable. 3) My experience was that it was very easy to pivot and rotate the lower A-Frame to align the fulcrum pin bolt holes and install the bolts.Whereas Billm mentioned needing a hammer tap to align the bolts when using a plate. The bent end of the rod thru the shock mount is a very flexible attachment. AND, by using the shock mount, the attachment / pivot point was well above the A Frame, making it very stable. When i did mine I was very surprised at how "docile" the whole deal was. It did not take a lot of torque on the threaded rod nut to tighten the spring. And as I got it compressed enough to attach the fulcrum pin bolts I found it took very little effort to maneuver, pivot, rotate, the lower A-Frame to align and install the fulcrum pin bolts.
So that's why I used a bent rod. Mainly out of ignorance, or too lazy to find and drill a plate. But I also think it actually worked better. Many times in my life I have found the simplest solution is often the most elegant!
Tom