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Clutch Slave cylinder problems

M

mackem

Donation Time
I have a problem with the clutch slave cylinder. when I depress the clutch, it doesn't seem to push the clutch fork far enough to disengage properly, resulting in having to force the gears.
I have a new master cylinder, new pipe and referbished slave cylinder.
The slave cylinder is mounted on the gearbox side of the bell housing.
The push rod is 4 inches long,
The bleed nipple is at the top and the system is free from air.
The pedal is not spongey, if anything, it seems too hard.
I have a Holbay engine/flywheel fitted with the 8 1/2 inch clutch. I presume the clutch fork and thrust bearing is Alpine.
Any ideas why i'm not getting full travel?
could it be the wrong master cylinder not pushing sufficent fluid through?
the push rod needs to be longer due to Holbay clutch set up?
 
husky drvr

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Do you know if you have a high or low pedestal for the clutch release arm? Spring or diaphragm type clutch cover?
 
M

mackem

Donation Time
husky drvr said:
Do you know if you have a high or low pedestal for the clutch release arm? Spring or diaphragm type clutch cover?
Click to expand...

Sorry i don't understand the first part of your reply, as for the clutch cover, it;s the type with the spring fingers running to the centre, if that makes any sense.
 
R

Rootes 66

Donation Time
Mackem
It could be something as simple as "newness". Did you wire brush the splines on the primary shaft, check the plate was free from burrs, moved freely on the splines etc and left DRY.

Some points to check if you get no joy.
You need to determine if the clutch cover was the same thickness as a standard series 4-5 cover, if it was there's a good chance you have a Holbay cover
There were Two different types, one had a Carbon thrust face, the other a metal one with a thin 0.010 -0.020 carbon like layer, this needed a roller thrust, 3" again (like hens teeth 25 years ago) They do not mix.
Most plates will work if the right diameter, Holbay Plates were all fine splined, Early alpine, Triumph 2000 will work fine if not
Holbay used a 3" thrust bearing in which case you may need an early set of Alpine forks on a late pedestal. A later Alpine thrust bearing 2.5" I imagine would work but there would only be about 50% of the faces mating together, the wrong pedestal will throw out the geometry of the lever.
Welcome to the world of non standard spec and Good luck.

Pete
 
6

65series4

Donation Time
I am no expert on Alpine mods for sure, but I did quite a few on Austin Healeys and MG's. If you manually try to move the clutch arm, is there any play before it gets too tight to move by hand? If so, the pushrod might be too short. That would be a simple fix of welding on an extention to the pushrod. If not, then it is likely the geometry of the cluch arm, throw out bearing and pressure plate not being quite right. I would have someone step on the pedal for you while you watch the travel. Check to see if the travel looks like the correct amount. If not, then it could be air in the line. I know you said there was not, but it is still a possibility. Also, I have had a ton of trouble with after market slave cylinders, expecially in the last several years. It is always best to rebuild the original if possible. If the travel does not look right, then check the mater as well as the pedal adjustment. Since you went to an after market clutch and pressure plate setup, it may also need a different slave altogether.

cheers

Mike
 
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