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Clear Hooter Horn Rebuild

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Gold Level Sponsor
If you end up not being able to get them rebuilt, I replaced mine with Hella hi-lo horns. They come with a relay.
My horns worked okay but for me, I wanted something louder because our little cars can get lost in the mix in traffic.
If someone starts to change lanes on top of me, I want to make sure they hear about it.
I’ve been happy with the Hellas. They aren’t original but they aren’t noticeably unoriginal, unless you’re on the concourse.
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
In my experience, they seem to hit a point of no repair. I can occasionally get them working
but it's a rarity. I , along with Silver Creek, also endorse the aftermarket horns. I've used the Fiamm
horns ( hi & lo) and they are much louder and very easy to install. I've bought them on Ebay and have
gotten them for somewhere around $25 for the pair.
 

tony perrett

Gold Level Sponsor
It is possible to drill out the rivets and open the horn to allow you to check for corrosion. If it is U/S anyway, you have nothing to lose.
 

Pete S.

Bronze Level Sponsor
Don’t see or can’t find a definitive article on how to rebuild these low note high note horns.
Adjustment screw makes no difference, good ground, 12v.
Any shop or member rebuild these?

I've taken a few apart to repair, with mixed results - mostly bad.

First check that you still have continuity with a voltmeter, across the two leads and that the power leads are not shorted to the horn body. If open across the leads or has continuity against the horn body, the horn is done.

Next drill out the rivets and separate the halves to get at the points. Clean and burnish the points as much as possible and reassemble using small nuts and bolts and then try it again. That's about all you can do with them. Good luck.
 

bkasl

Bronze Level Sponsor
I've taken a few apart to repair, with mixed results - mostly bad.

First check that you still have continuity with a voltmeter, across the two leads and that the power leads are not shorted to the horn body. If open across the leads or has continuity against the horn body, the horn is done.

Next drill out the rivets and separate the halves to get at the points. Clean and burnish the points as much as possible and reassemble using small nuts and bolts and then try it again. That's about all you can do with them. Good luck.

they appear to be throw away if the points can’t be cleaned or other problems
I used multimeter with no reading, opened it up cleaned points and now 2,5 but one terminal spins and black wire to it very dried out, in fact if I twist the terminal the reading goes back to nothing
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
I have rebuilt them, and every horn worked great. They get very dirty and rusty, the diaphragm mostly.
Jan
 

Mike O'D

Gold Level Sponsor
I have a couple of Clear Hooters that came with a bunch of parts, but can't be sure they are from and Alpine. One is marked H on the bell and the other is marked HH. I can't say I have heard an original Alpine horn before, but the two of these together is pretty high pitched. What did they actually come with?
 

bkasl

Bronze Level Sponsor
I have a couple of Clear Hooters that came with a bunch of parts, but can't be sure they are from and Alpine. One is marked H on the bell and the other is marked HH. I can't say I have heard an original Alpine horn before, but the two of these together is pretty high pitched. What did they actually come with?
Triumph also used clear hooter
 

Mike O'D

Gold Level Sponsor
I was sort of expecting one to be H (high) and one to be L (low). HH = higher than high? What are the markings on original Alpine horns?
 
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