chebby rods`

[SIVAllan]

Wanted: 4 chevy 350 rods and caps.

PM price if interested.

Thanks.

 

[RootesRacer]

Wanted: 4 chevy 350 rods and caps.

PM price if interested.

Thanks.

Why?

It will cost you more to have them welded and machined than to buy a set of crower L6 rods and have them milled to width.

Plus they (chebbies) will be heavier and weaker to boot.

 

[SIVAllan]

Why .. ?? 'cuz my cd on "how to do it" has chebby 350 rods .

If there is a better option, now is a good time to discuss it...

The goal is a motor with lighter, stronger internals that won't sink the budget totally.

I have Sunbeam rods, but thought the chevy rods was the way to go, just a little machine work.

But if the chevy rod trick is out of date, please do supply more recent information .

Thanks!!!!!!!

Allan

 

[RootesRacer]

You dont "just" machine the chebbie rods.

You have to weld them first since the rods are narrower than the stock rods.


I did this once with a very nice set of H beam carillo rods and after running them for break in, a rod spun. After taking apart the motor I found that the welding weakened the magic metal the rod was made of and the big end deformed.

After doing this I started looking into off the shelf rods that could be narrowed rather that widening.

The short list was the L6 chebbie, 2.0 and 2.3 fords.

The chebbie was best for me since the rod length was more appropriate (4 cyl fords were much shorted).

Anyhow I will never weld another set of rods.

 

[SIVAllan]

The crower rods appear to be in the 800$ range - ouch .

I do take your point on lessening rather than adding to the rods of choice, makes good sense.

Do the ford rods you mentioned need to be lengthened .. ??

If this is a big deal for a street engine, the Sunbeam rods are available and the extra dough can be used elsewhere...

Allan

 

[Alpine 1789]

Allan: I know the article you saw about the 350 Chevy rods. That was written a number of years ago, before people discovered that there were other rods that worked much better and were much easier to use. I bought mine at one of the national autoparts stores and simply asked for rods for a mid 60’s Chevy II/Nova 4-cylinder engine. The guy at the first place I went to tried to do it on the computer and gave up pretty quickly, so I went somewhere where the guy was willing to take the time to look them up on their old parts books (it was an Advance Auto store, for what its worth). IIRC, I paid about $25 each for a set of reconditioned ones. I am fairly certain these are the same rods as Chevy used in the L6 engines.

I would be happy to send you a couple of articles on the process. Just send me your email address via a PM.

 

[sunbeam74]

I think this guy has them listed on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-C...tem250296906591QQitemZ250296906591#ht_500wt_0

I believe these are for the Chevy 250 I-6. There's another guy who sells a set of 6 for about $60 but I haven't seen his listing in a while.

Add ARP bolts and you're ready to go. This is a great setup for the 1592... The journals are 2", same as the 1592, and the rod is only about .040 shorter. Go with the Venolia pistons and you save almost 3lbs for the set of four piston/rod assembly. (you could even lighten the chevy rods for further reduction)


Steve

 

[SIVAllan]

Thanks!

I would need rods for a 1725 crank; it has larger journal
size.

 

[sunbeam74]

I am pretty sure you'd want to use these same rods for the 1725, too. The crank would need modifications. Jim Ellis has that crank shop that will do it and it was really reasonable (FAR more reasonable than I can find in the N.E.)

Steve

 

[MikeH]

That would be Standard Crankshaft. They modified a 2.9 crank for me.

http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/