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Charles John's Alpine Build

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Dan, some guys are just lucky...but I am not one. Ethanol everywhere in Texas. I just cut the OEM motor mount perches off the front crossmember, and I am making poster board templates. Those will transfer to 3/16 plate with gussets for strength. Hoping to use simple rubber biscuits (GM style like SBC) as vibration dampers/motor mounts. We used 1/4" and thicker on hot rods but that was with much heavier motors with far more power. I was surprised at how thin the OEM mounts are...though they are kinda boxed. After I get a little further along I'll post pix.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Try the Anchor2424 I utilize for my V6 Engine mounts in the Conversion.

Very good rubber biscuits. I discovered them when I owned Volvos.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Try the Anchor2424 I utilize for my V6 Engine mounts in the Conversion.

Very good rubber biscuits. I discovered them when I owned Volvos.
Dan, I think you said you got 2 different styles of the 2424 mount...ME TOO. Two mounts from different companies and one is metric while the other is SAE. I don't care but it seems weird happening to you and me. One box has a big A with an anchor and the other is Power Torque company made in India. Fortunately I have a mega-ben of nuts and bolts, metric and SAE. Back to fabrication.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Dan, I think you said you got 2 different styles of the 2424 mount...ME TOO. Two mounts from different companies and one is metric while the other is SAE. I don't care but it seems weird happening to you and me. One box has a big A with an anchor and the other is Power Torque company made in India. Fortunately I have a mega-ben of nuts and bolts, metric and SAE. Back to fabrication.


You are correct about me getting different threads and size in the Anchor 2424. I did write a very lengthy rebuttal on their mix match when shipping several of the mounts and even from different sources.

Main problem that I see is when I ship my engine mounts to a customer and I happen to have the mixed mounts. Not a very good situation for me, so I must place another order for more than I really need for stock in order to get a match for a customer... Pain in the rear.

Keep us posted on the progress?
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Anyone here ever notch the front crossmember to clear the crank pulley? I may need to do so to lower my 2.3 and was just wondering. Years ago I did it with tubing cut lengthwise leaving a "U" channel, and once using angle iron. I have also learned my "stick" welding skills have been lost after decades of using a nice 225 amp 60% duty cycle MIG. For now I make sure I get good penetration and will worry about looks later. Bill, it is the intake that hits the steering box with the Esslinger intake, so I may need to massage it a little. I think I can clear the steering link that crosses behind the block, but I know there is a modified one available if needed. Once this is done, hello A4LD and serious modifications to mounts, floor, shifter, and transmission lines. AND the fun has just started.
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Charles, The crossmember is notched for the Tiger rack. The MGB guys notch their crossmember all the time.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I'll try to send pix.
One shows engine centered, another the level intake, one the front pulley and crossmember, one rear steering clearance, and one the intake/steering box relationship.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
OKAY, I finally got my computer to do what "I" wanted it to do and not what "IT" wanted to do. With luck and a little divine intervention, my pictures will magically appear...somewhere.
 

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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Charles, I have found that if I set the tranny so the U-joint clears the bottom of the cruciform by about 1/4", then raise the front of the engine to about 3 degrees, that gives me 3 1/2" from the center of the crankshaft to the crossmember, which has always been enough to clear the crankshaft pulley. I also see that as the practical minimum engine installation height. To go lower than that, all sorts of things need major attention.

Bill
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill, the 2.3 pully has 3 groves and a 2 grove appears to be unavailable, which is why I need to notch the crossmember. Also, hood clearance can be a problem with a carb. I intend to make a cool-air intake getting air from in front of the radiator on the driver's side. It looks like I will make motor mounts out of 1/4" plate using the rubber biscuits I got from O'Reilly. The trans bolt mounts at top are about 1 1/2" thick, so that space must be allowed for clearance. The pix I posted show clearance with the wheels turned full to one side (closest to motor). Dropping the motor about 1" should allow radiator and rear clearance. The A4LD is much bigger than most automatics in small cars, and I believe I am covering new ground. I will file your info for future reference because I may need it later. If necessary, I will cut the "X" member and design my own to fit the A4LD. I had to do that with my 1940 Ford which has an "X" frame also. The Ford V8 I put in it was not a standard swap and I wanted it low in the frame. Later I will build a TILT to put the car on its side for under-car work. Again, any info about any engine swap is appreciated...I am a newbie when it comes to sporty cars.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Charlie, Here is a PIC where I notched a cross-member to clear the Harmonic Balancer Pulley.

Alpine 0766 Crossmember Knotched for the 4.0 V6 OHV Engine      20190614_110253.jpg
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
The A4LD is much bigger than most automatics in small cars, and I believe I am covering new ground. I will file your info for future reference because I may need it later. If necessary, I will cut the "X" member and design my own to fit the A4LD.

Not sure about covering new ground, Several Guys have installed the A4LD in the Alpine. You will probably hear something from them if they read your post.

I have installed an A4LD behind the Cologne V6 in my BW35 Alpine without needing to cut any thing other than some minor trim on the right side of the transmission tunnel. In the PIC I sent in my preceding POST I modified the crossmember for added clearance mainly due to the length needed, but some depth of maybe 3/4 inch.

AS Bill said a little movement here and alot of something somewhere else will most likely come into play.

Have fun:)
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Dan, great to learn others have installed an A4LD in our Alpine. I have not seen one here behind a 2.3 though. That big crank pulley is a problem and I have plans to mod the crossmember similar to yours. The 2.3 is heavy so the lower the better. For now I am measuring then will pull the motor out and start cutting/welding. The carb clears, the intake is very close, the rear looks like it may clear steering, and the pan is way clear. The hood may give trouble but a bubble or scoop will fix that.
 

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Charles Johns

Donation Time
View attachment 17620
16 gallon Mustang tank.
Okay, the Mustang tank is a great idea! Being a many Mustangs owner over the decades, I should have seen that as an option. Even running ethanol, there is a stainless 16 gallon Mustang tank available. Hind-sight is 20-20, but it also shows just how dumb a person can be. The Pony tank saves trunk space also. Life goes on and we learn to live with our mistakes.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Not sure about covering new ground, Several Guys have installed the A4LD in the Alpine. You will probably hear something from them if they read your post.

I have installed an A4LD behind the Cologne V6 in my BW35 Alpine without needing to cut any thing other than some minor trim on the right side of the transmission tunnel. In the PIC I sent in my preceding POST I modified the crossmember for added clearance mainly due to the length needed, but some depth of maybe 3/4 inch.

AS Bill said a little movement here and alot of something somewhere else will most likely come into play.

Have fun:)
Dan, what did you do about the lock-up converter? With no computer I am putting a button on the shifter to lock it when in Overdrive.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Dan, great to learn others have installed an A4LD in our Alpine. I have not seen one here behind a 2.3 though. That big crank pulley is a problem and I have plans to mod the crossmember similar to yours. The 2.3 is heavy so the lower the better. For now I am measuring then will pull the motor out and start cutting/welding. The carb clears, the intake is very close, the rear looks like it may clear steering, and the pan is way clear. The hood may give trouble but a bubble or scoop will fix that.
Could you swap over to a serpentine belt system? That could possibly solve many problems. Who knows how many it would create? I sure don't. But given the space restraints of the Alpine engine compartment, I have found them to work best.

Bill
 
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