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Building a 1725

Jim E

Donation Time
Just cut .400 off the top which reproduces the Isky lifter that is out of production.
 

Jim E

Donation Time
Jim,What will the Isky push rod benefit the engine? Would it be a stronger? Last longer? Or just better all around engine. Are they stronger than stock? I will be picking up all the things you needed from my old engine this afternoon and can deliver them sometime tomorrow or Sunday if I can get back before the game is over.:) Give me a call on my cell when you get a chance today.


Bob don't think I have your number... ring me up
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Just cut .400 off the top which reproduces the Isky lifter that is out of production.

If you cut 400 off the tops of the stock lifters, you have done way better than the isky lifters.

They may be shorter (the iskys) but they still weigh more than stock ones.
 

Jim E

Donation Time
Yeah but the Isky's sure seemed to be made of a lot better material than the stock units. Could be wrong but that is how it seemed to me.
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Yeah but the Isky's sure seemed to be made of a lot better material than the stock units. Could be wrong but that is how it seemed to me.

I have a brand spanking new set of iskys (never got over how much heavier they were).

They look different from stock in that the material is silver instead of black.

My guess is they used something like 4340, or something with a high chromium content.
 

Jim E

Donation Time
Right lighten tham up the only thing is it does not make a whole bunch of diff due to where the lifters are int eh over all schem of things.

Jan,
Would you tell us/me how to clock the dizzy, I always have a problem with this and would love to hear the way you go about it.
 

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
After getting the timing markings correct and #1 TDC, look at the cam to make sure the #1 lobe is "out" and not 180 out. Fool proof. :p

Paul

Right lighten tham up the only thing is it does not make a whole bunch of diff due to where the lifters are int eh over all schem of things.

Jan,
Would you tell us/me how to clock the dizzy, I always have a problem with this and would love to hear the way you go about it.
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
Folks,
When you are finished installing the cam and have it timed to the marks, #1 cylinder is in it's induction stroke, so its not ready to install the oil pump yet. So, rotate the crank one revolution to get #1 cylinder in its power stroke. Now you can follow the installation of the oil pump in the service manual. When you think you got it installed correctly, double check it with the distributor to make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder post on the distributor cap.
Jan
 

Jim E

Donation Time
So just to be sure I have it. Once you have it set to TDC timing markes all lined up and everything bolted down. Spin it one rotation then install the oil pump like the book says. Now back it up one rotation and drop the distributor in and see if you are pointed at number one.

In the past I have just kept jacking with teh oil pump until I got it right or gave up.
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
That's correct Jim, but you guys should investigate & prove this to yourselves because then you will learn this for yourselves and never forget.
Another tip here for you guys is how to determine the cam timing (without alignment marks?). When you install a cam (lets say a lawnmower engine to make it simple), insert the cam so that both valves will rock open & close (right at the overlap), now time the piston so its at TDC. Then to check (any engine) cam timing, the valves or rockers should both rock back-and-forth with the piston at TDC. Then the cam timing is correct, and you know that the piston is NOT in the firing position.
 

Jim E

Donation Time
Waiting for the bearings, rings and such from SS and the cam and lifters from Delta and we should be ready to assemble.

The rotating assembly was balanced Friday, we also shaved a few pounds off the fly wheel. I will post a picture of the fly wheel later just forgot to take one.

crank%20balance.jpg

Here is the crank getting balanced, it was out 1.7 grams on the front and about 4 on the back. The crank was balanced first then the lightened flywheel was attached and it was spun up again. With the F/W on it the crank read 6 grams out on the front and 27 in the rear. Did not take much to bring it back in zero though 27 sounds like a lot but when you remove it from that far out away from the center of the crank it changes pretty fast. When it was all done the crank was dead on zero/zero

blockhone.jpg

Here we have the block in the honing machine, actuall it did not get honed at this point but went to the mill to be decked then back to the hone for the final hone to the piston size.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
HMMM, I do now. Yesterday all that was on my screen was an extra space where the photos are.

Jeff, David Vizard, while promoting balancing, claims it will add only about 300 rpms and is not a significant source of power. At least that was on the Pinto engine. Maybe the Pinto is better balanced than most, it is a Ford , you know.

What he likes about about balancing is the reduction in vibration and it allows the engine to stay bolted together.

Bill
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Jim,

I keep reading that the rotating machinery should be all balanced together. I see you balanced first the crank alone. And then the crank with flywheel. Will you then mount the crank and pistons in the block and spin it while in the block? Or will you just match the weight of all 4 pistons and rods?

Thanks for posting all this. It really helps me fully understand and see what's going on.

Tom h
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Jim,

I keep reading that the rotating machinery should be all balanced together. I see you balanced first the crank alone. And then the crank with flywheel. Will you then mount the crank and pistons in the block and spin it while in the block? Or will you just match the weight of all 4 pistons and rods?

Thanks for posting all this. It really helps me fully understand and see what's going on.

Tom h
Hi Tom,

The crank is balanced alone first, then all the other stuff is added to it individually and spun again, so that each piece can be balanced to match the crank.

The agregate weight of a rod, piston, wrist pin, ring set and the two bearibg halves, is put on each rod journal, as bob weights. This way the crank can be spun on the machine and balanced, as if the rods and pistons were connected to it.

Before any of this can be done, the lightest piston is selected and all the other pistons are made to match it in weight. The same thing is done with the rods. The lightest one is selected and the others are made to weigh the same, so when the bob weights are added, they will all weigh the same.

Jose:)
 
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