Brakes won't bleed!

[Steeman01]

Thank you all and @belmateo , I agree that is a likely thing. So I do want to ask, I believe these are not the original brakes, meaning, I am sure they were rebuilt at some point, as the rubber seal/boot on the rear drum brakes are really soft and pliable (in a good way). Without putting hydraulic fluid in and without a M/C at the moment, is there any way to manually check to see if the calipers and wheel cylinders are good? I already have my list into SS for all the brake parts to rebuild/replace (down to the rotors), but I was wondering if there was a way. Thanks again all!!

 

[belmateo]

Absolutely yes.
You can unbolt the calipers and see if you can move the puck. Put a small piece of wood to protect it and use some channel locks and try to compress them. If you are successful that will make it easier for you to rebuild them. If not, you might have to buy new pistons.

 

[Tim R]

Warren, I was interested in your comment about bleeding the brakes. In my hard copy workshop manual (WSM 124/2) it states that to bleed the brakes you start at the nearside rear wheel cylinder, then go to the front and finish at the wheel nearest the master cylinder. This is what I have always done.
I then checked WSM 145 which is online and see that the procedure is as you describe and is reversed stating that you should start at the front left calliper, then do front right calliper and end at the left hand rear.
I wonder whey they changed this.
Tim R

 

[beamertwo]

I have just completed a full brake rebuild - new caliper pistons, flexible hoses, booster and seals throughout, but I am having trouble bleeding them. I have gone around the car 4 times, twice using a one-way valve and twice using a borrowed compressor vacuum system. While there is some "pedal" and it does pump up, it is far from acceptable. When I was using the one way valve and pumping the pedal, there was usually some resistance, but every now and then there was absolutely nothing - as if the system was empty although the fluid was always kept topped up. If left for a little while the resistance would return. I have checked around the car and there doesn't appear to be any leaks. This is driving me absolutely nuts! Any ideas?

 

[belmateo]

Try using a clear hose elevated into any small bottle (pill) with a relief hole in the cap. Attach the hose end (starting at the furthest point from master cylinder). Crack the valve open no more than a quarter of a turn. Push the brake pedal to the floor several times to get the trapped air out. Keep the master full. When you see fluid in the bottle, close the valve and do the same to the front calipers.

 

[hartmandm]

Like Tim indicated, for a series V, the WSM indicates to bleed starting closest to the MC then work your way to the farthest. As to why not start farthest away first, I can only guess there must some small chance of air going from a nearer line into a farther line after the farther line has been bled. If that happens, then bleeding the nearer cylinders won't get rid of that air.

Mike

 

[husky drvr]

Rick,

Any possibility the MC piston is not withdrawing from the MC enough to uncover the reservoir port to allow consistent cylinder refill? Spacer missing? Pedal not completely returning to top of travel?

Long ago I found lightly tapping on the calipers with a hammer while bleeding, helps air bubbles dislodge.

Just a thought. HTH