Brake Servo Series V

[Green67Alpine]

Howdy Folks, Servo on the car has been removed (fluid inside) I've been driving without it, but would like to have it repaired(to try to keep the car mostly original) by someone who knows what their doing. Has anyone had a successful experence with a rebuild ? Can anyone recommend someone that does rebuild servos. I'm familiar with White Post, but I'd like to check out some other options. Thanks for the ideas........
Weather has been Alpine friendly in the mornings and evenings had some nice drives the last week or two

Tom j

 

[Derek]

Servo rebuild

Randy Willett rebuilds servos and other brake parts, willett581@msn.com I have not dealt with him but have seen photos, the work looks good. Rebuild kits can be had from PowerTrack, http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk. I need to rebuild mine but have not decided which way to go. Kit from PowerTrack is about $200 US for the 7" a rebuild is over $500, a replacement Lockheed 5" is $345 from SS. Keep us posted on what you decide. I spoke with Rick at SS and he said that on a 1-10 scale the servo rebuild is about an 8 on the skill level, I spoke with a local guy who has owned 3 Alpines and a couple of Tigers and he says good cirlip pliers, a coat hanger for the special tool and a steady hand are all that is needed. I may take mine apart and then decide if it deserves a rebuild, though I was warned against this by Randy Willett as he says most are damaged by people taking them apart, go figure!

Derek

 

[am99ey]

Tom
I had my servo sucking fluid. After dismantling I descided to take the repair path because it did not look to bad (spent all the money on rebuilding the engine).
I have repaired my booster. Needed several approaches until it worked.
- The long circlip plier is absolutely necessary.
- I used a original Girling 7" rebuild kit.
- I first tried to lube with petroleum jelly, no success, servo locked up after brut pedal pressure. Finally used original "Red Rubber Grease" (hard to get in Europe). Seems to have the bit of extra making it work finally.
- I had softened (massaged) the leather seal with "Altleder Softener" www.lederzentrum.de
Must be available in industries like riding/horse/shoemaker anywhere around the globe.
- The rubber sausage below the leather seal remained original. The new one in the kit is too thick, making the air piston stick.
- Centering the air piston very careful according manual in the repair kit.
- The seats of the two small plastic valves I had redone by a fine mechanic (20$).
- I finally positioned the air piston exactly the same way as it was fitted originally 06:00h clock housing matching 06:00h clock of piston (whatch the brake fluid marks in the rim and housing/cylinder.)
Until now I drove it only 300km no problems occured. I am confident it will last.
Let me know if you need more information.

good luck
Andy

btw: I am not a mechanic *smile*, but an Alpiner.
.

 

[havealucky]

Hi,

What exactly is going on when the servo is "sucking fluid"? I remember this topic from before but think I may have the same problem. I just got my Alpine back from 9 months of storage and have a few problems to sort. One is the fact that when it flashes up I get lots of oil smoke from where the exhaust manifold joins the down pipe as well as a lot of the same smoke from the tailpipe.

My first problem was stuck rear wheel brake cylinders. In an attempt to free them I exerted above normal pressure on the brake pedal. It was fruitless of course and the rear brake assemblies are torn down awaiting parts.

I am wondering if there is a connection or at least what causes this smoke show problem and what the remedy is?

Any help gratefully appreciated.

Tim

 

[havealucky]

Hi,

I should clarify that it is engine oil that is burning and not brake fluid so the servo is not the problem here. What would cause eng oil to make it's way to the exhaust manifold?

Oil pressure is excellent and the oil level is not down dramatically.

Tim

 

[SIVAllan]

I've bought parts from Randy; he seems to be one of the good guys.

 

[Nickodell]

Hi,

I should clarify that it is engine oil that is burning and not brake fluid so the servo is not the problem here. What would cause eng oil to make it's way to the exhaust manifold?

Oil pressure is excellent and the oil level is not down dramatically.

Tim

The most likely causes are:

1) Worn valve guides;
2) Worn cylinders and/or pistons and/or rings or broken ring(s);

If you get a cloud of smoke at startup, but not after a minute's running, it's more likely to be 1. If it smokes all the time, and especially when working hard - large throttle openings - it's more likely 2. If it does both, then it's likely 1. and 2.

If you get good compression tests on all 4 cylinders - 160 psi or better, and no cylinder more than 20 psi below the rest, you can pretty well rule out 2. If you get a low reading, try pouring a teaspoonful of engine oil in the plug hole of the bad one and do the test again. If the compression comes up momentarily, it's definitely 2.

 

[Alpine 1789]

IIRC, Paul Norton posted detailed servo rebuild instructions on the old forum. Did anyone save a copy of them?

 

[Jim E]

Now I may be off a bit but believe the seals in the cylinder leak and the vacuum from the intake that goes to the big can on the servo pulls fluid past the seal into the big vacuum can thing. When the can gets full enough and it can hold a lot of fluid, the vacuum finally pulls brake fluid to the intake and it burns in the combustion chamber causing clouds of white smoke out the tail pipe.

My guess is a bad servo off the car gets worse just sitting, things no longer move around stay in one postion and mositure just makes things go down hill.

 

[havealucky]

This all good and useful information on both subjects. I will investigate further. Eventually the smoke clears off and she runs fine and smoke free so it must be #1. Thanks for the response.

Tim