I am a three year lurker on this forum, the length of time I have owned and worked on my 65 Mark 1. I bought a partially restored tiger that had front end damage, and had sat for 8 years. I had it painted, interior redone, and got it running. I have had a problem with the brakes not releasing, especially after a hard stop. I finally replaced the front brake hoses which cured the problem for a while. It now seems to be binding in the rear. I just ordered a rear brake hose to see if that is the problem. Also tried to find the Castrol GT lma fluid but all I can find is the new Castrol synthetic version. Can this be used? Can it be mixed with the little remaining non synthetic Castrol when I bleed the system? When you brake there seems to be a little delay before the booster kicks in, but you can feel it kick in. I sure love driving this car, and the brakes have been the only limiting factor. It seems to me to drive like a 60's Corvette with an early Porsche suspension. Recently went into an auto parts store with it and I overheard one of the workers inside tell one of his companions that was the neatest car he had ever seen drive up to that store. He didn't even know what was under the bonnet. Thanks for your help in advance.
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Brake problem
- Thread starter navyeod
- Start date
tony perrett
Gold Level Sponsor
My first thought was a sticking piston in the servo (booster) but that would affect all of the wheels. If the car has been standing for 8 years it is very likely that the wheel cylinders have become corroded and the pistons are sticking. The best action would probably be to replace or recondition the servo, master cylinder, wheel cylinders and callipers.
Chuck Ingram
Donation Time
First of all is the servo working properly.It can as it gets old have the piston stick which slowly will release.Sometimes it needs a good tap with a hammer.
Before repalcing the rear hose with a new one I would disconnect them and completely blow all the lines clear.make sure the front hoses can be easily have air blown through both ways..
Then attach and refill with new brake fluid.Be sure to bleed them properly so all the air will be removed.Now check that both of the calipers do release with the engine running and to check if the servo is working properly.
It can be a bad caliper that needs to be redone.If you still have a problem with the rear brakes it will most likely need the cylinders replaced.
Do not mix brake fluids at all.Once you have got the brakes working perfect you can change over to synthetic.You will have to flush and blow all the lines clean before you do.
Take your time as you do this and don't rush as you will be like all of us who rush and sometimes overlook one little thing
Enjoy your Tiger and do join us on the forum
Before repalcing the rear hose with a new one I would disconnect them and completely blow all the lines clear.make sure the front hoses can be easily have air blown through both ways..
Then attach and refill with new brake fluid.Be sure to bleed them properly so all the air will be removed.Now check that both of the calipers do release with the engine running and to check if the servo is working properly.
It can be a bad caliper that needs to be redone.If you still have a problem with the rear brakes it will most likely need the cylinders replaced.
Do not mix brake fluids at all.Once you have got the brakes working perfect you can change over to synthetic.You will have to flush and blow all the lines clean before you do.
Take your time as you do this and don't rush as you will be like all of us who rush and sometimes overlook one little thing
Enjoy your Tiger and do join us on the forum
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
The issue of "synthetic" Castrol GT LMA brake fluid was discussed in this thread (http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12941) beginning with post #27.
MikeH
Diamond Level Sponsor
I had a similar thing happen with a motorhome. Applied the brakes and they wouldn't release on the left front. The hose would allow fluid through, but apparently ballooned inside and would not allow it to flow back to releave the pressure and locked the caliper. Replaced the hose and everything was fine. A few months later, the same happened on the right front.
wheel cylinders
Rear right wheel cylinder frozen and just hanging, back circlip was missing. Ordered some new cylinders from Sunbeam Specialties and hardware kit. Front calipers okay resurfaced the rotors and put new pads on. Looks like the booster and master cylinder okay. Will put the new parts on and change out the fluid. Heres hoping this takes care of her. Will keep you posted and try to learn how to post some pics. Also it has a mallory distributor that has been converted to electronic. Could not believe the wear on the distributor cap. Should sure notice a difference in the idle. david
Rear right wheel cylinder frozen and just hanging, back circlip was missing. Ordered some new cylinders from Sunbeam Specialties and hardware kit. Front calipers okay resurfaced the rotors and put new pads on. Looks like the booster and master cylinder okay. Will put the new parts on and change out the fluid. Heres hoping this takes care of her. Will keep you posted and try to learn how to post some pics. Also it has a mallory distributor that has been converted to electronic. Could not believe the wear on the distributor cap. Should sure notice a difference in the idle. david
finally
Replaced the shoes, turned the rear drums, replaced the wheel cylinders, one of the adjusters, new springs and hardware. Rear brake hose replaced. Front rotors resurfaced, new pads, flushed out the lines with new fluid Castrol GT LMA and brakes finally working and not hanging up. Dont know how to act. Now must attack a faulty trunk lock that wont let me in the trunk and trouble shoot a whining fuel pump. Also installed a manual choke for the 4 barrel holley and it really makes start up a breeze. School bus driver stopped beside me today, opened his door said "Sunbeam Alpine Tiger, way to go".
Replaced the shoes, turned the rear drums, replaced the wheel cylinders, one of the adjusters, new springs and hardware. Rear brake hose replaced. Front rotors resurfaced, new pads, flushed out the lines with new fluid Castrol GT LMA and brakes finally working and not hanging up. Dont know how to act. Now must attack a faulty trunk lock that wont let me in the trunk and trouble shoot a whining fuel pump. Also installed a manual choke for the 4 barrel holley and it really makes start up a breeze. School bus driver stopped beside me today, opened his door said "Sunbeam Alpine Tiger, way to go".
Progress
Got my trunk latch working with the help of a small fellow crawling into the trunk from the inside of the car and releasing it. I adjusted the latch with him inside the trunk till we got it reliable. I have a Fram cartridge gas filter mounted in the trunk (Previous Owner) and when I took that apart it had a ton of rust in it. Was surprised as I had the tank pulled, boiled and recoated inside. I cleaned the rust out and cleaned the cartridge best I could and put it back in till I could get a new cartridge. It arrived two days later and I had more rust in the filter when I put the new cartridge in. I changed out the plugs. Would be embarassed to tell how long it took me and how many plugs the engine ate, when they were dropped. Got all plugs changed out. The one that is accessed thru the fire wall was loose. All plugs looked good and had no oiling on the igniters. Took the car for a ride to get two more plugs and she was running better than ever. While changing the drivers side plugs I hit some wire that sparked and noted on my ride to the parts store I had no guages except oil and speedo. Checked the fuses and okay. Figured it must be that fuse box, as I had no lights or turn signals either. Doggone if I didnt find a spare fuse box in my stuff and put that it. (The Lord is good). Everything is working now, but this is another day. ;^). Going for a 75 mile ride and a hike in North Alabama today. It is sure nice to have brakes.
Got my trunk latch working with the help of a small fellow crawling into the trunk from the inside of the car and releasing it. I adjusted the latch with him inside the trunk till we got it reliable. I have a Fram cartridge gas filter mounted in the trunk (Previous Owner) and when I took that apart it had a ton of rust in it. Was surprised as I had the tank pulled, boiled and recoated inside. I cleaned the rust out and cleaned the cartridge best I could and put it back in till I could get a new cartridge. It arrived two days later and I had more rust in the filter when I put the new cartridge in. I changed out the plugs. Would be embarassed to tell how long it took me and how many plugs the engine ate, when they were dropped. Got all plugs changed out. The one that is accessed thru the fire wall was loose. All plugs looked good and had no oiling on the igniters. Took the car for a ride to get two more plugs and she was running better than ever. While changing the drivers side plugs I hit some wire that sparked and noted on my ride to the parts store I had no guages except oil and speedo. Checked the fuses and okay. Figured it must be that fuse box, as I had no lights or turn signals either. Doggone if I didnt find a spare fuse box in my stuff and put that it. (The Lord is good). Everything is working now, but this is another day. ;^). Going for a 75 mile ride and a hike in North Alabama today. It is sure nice to have brakes.
jumpinjan
Bronze Level Sponsor
LMA brake fluid
Pep-Boys has LMA brake fluid
ALso, a auto parts store that says they specialize in foreign auto parts like:
http://www.international-auto.com/
I just purchased a quart from them last week
Jan
Pep-Boys has LMA brake fluid
ALso, a auto parts store that says they specialize in foreign auto parts like:
http://www.international-auto.com/
I just purchased a quart from them last week
Jan
Tiger purring
I found the Castrol LMA on Amazon.com and also at a Pep boys store. Seems to be doing fine. The Tiger purred all 150 miles. Sure was hot yesterday here in Alabama. Engine temp ran from 180 to 200 the entire trip. Noticed a little more heat on the backing plate on the drivers rear side, vs the passenger side. Noticed that when the shoes were put on and backed off on the adjustement a few clicks. That wheel had a little more play in it that the other, so I may be looking at a wheel bearing replacement on the rear. Brakes doing great. Are the rear axles on the tiger the same as on the alpine. My rear axle on the drivers side has had the bearing retainer welded to the axle????
I found the Castrol LMA on Amazon.com and also at a Pep boys store. Seems to be doing fine. The Tiger purred all 150 miles. Sure was hot yesterday here in Alabama. Engine temp ran from 180 to 200 the entire trip. Noticed a little more heat on the backing plate on the drivers rear side, vs the passenger side. Noticed that when the shoes were put on and backed off on the adjustement a few clicks. That wheel had a little more play in it that the other, so I may be looking at a wheel bearing replacement on the rear.
Brakes doing great. Are the rear axles on the tiger the same as on the alpine. My rear axle on the drivers side has had the bearing retainer welded to the axle????
Duke
Donation Time
so I may be looking at a wheel bearing replacement on the rear.
See this - http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13968
Duke
Saw that and some of your previous post. Incredible work and what a great looking Tiger. Where did you get that hood? I have a Three row racing radiator in mine and the 260 still runs hot. Have put in a rust/trash trap between the water pump and the radiator and keep it cleaned. I dont have the HO water pump, guess that may be the next step, but would sure like to get some more air under that hood for the beast beneath.
Saw that and some of your previous post. Incredible work and what a great looking Tiger. Where did you get that hood? I have a Three row racing radiator in mine and the 260 still runs hot. Have put in a rust/trash trap between the water pump and the radiator and keep it cleaned. I dont have the HO water pump, guess that may be the next step, but would sure like to get some more air under that hood for the beast beneath.
Duke
Donation Time
Thanks! I got the hood from Dale's Restorations - http://www.dalesresto.com/
Read this article - http://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html
I did most of the mods to include a recored radiator with stock tanks, Derale #17015 fan, smaller pulley, blocking horn holes. My car never gets hot (this is BEFORE the LAT hood). I do not have a electric fan. They do not recommend a high flow pump.
Horn Hole Blocking
Duke I read that cooling tech tips 3 years ago and never fooled with blocking the horn holes. What a stupid mistake. I read the article again and got some foam packing sheets and cut them to fit and blocked both holes. I have the smaller pulley, the denale fan, and a race aluminum radiator. I have never been able to go at expressway speeds without the car overheating. That changed today. I took her out and put it on 80mph 4000 rpm if the tach and speedo are correct and daggum if it didnt hang right at 175F. Temps were in the low 80's. I sure feel dumb. I am not sure what has been done to my 260, it has the 4 bbl and seems to lope like it has a cam, but I know it has to be over 200hp and it runs like a scalded dog. Can't imagine 350hp. Glad I am not your age and can temper myself. It was great after three years to run that engine out. That tiger can roar. I really got on it on the takeoff ramp to the interstate and something flew up and by me, I thought it came off my car and it was coming apart, but kept going. Got home and didn't find anything missing, except the extra heat. :
Duke I read that cooling tech tips 3 years ago and never fooled with blocking the horn holes. What a stupid mistake. I read the article again and got some foam packing sheets and cut them to fit and blocked both holes. I have the smaller pulley, the denale fan, and a race aluminum radiator. I have never been able to go at expressway speeds without the car overheating. That changed today. I took her out and put it on 80mph 4000 rpm if the tach and speedo are correct and daggum if it didnt hang right at 175F. Temps were in the low 80's. I sure feel dumb. I am not sure what has been done to my 260, it has the 4 bbl and seems to lope like it has a cam, but I know it has to be over 200hp and it runs like a scalded dog. Can't imagine 350hp. Glad I am not your age and can temper myself.
It was great after three years to run that engine out. That tiger can roar. I really got on it on the takeoff ramp to the interstate and something flew up and by me, I thought it came off my car and it was coming apart, but kept going. Got home and didn't find anything missing, except the extra heat. :Chuck Ingram
Donation Time
I have a mild 351W in my Lister clone.It ran hot as all get out.The best things I did were to block the horn holes.An aluminum rad.The hood is louvered.
Duke
I have the high volume water pump as well.
I can run highway speeds all day
Duke
I have the high volume water pump as well.
I can run highway speeds all day
More stupidity
When I put my derale fan on a few years ago I cut the blades down to fit rather than raise the engine as recommended. I have a friend who does outboard motor prop repair and he had a balancer I used to balance the blades when I cut them down. I found out today what I saw fly off my car a couple of days ago while gearing up to 80mph. It was one of my fan blades. That also may explain some of my heating problems. Ordered a new fan today and will be elevating the engine to clear the 15" blades. I have a Fluidyne radiator which is pretty wide. Will have to pull the radiator to get the fans changed out, also a pain in the butt. How tough is it to elevate that engine to get some washers between it and the motor mount??
When I put my derale fan on a few years ago I cut the blades down to fit rather than raise the engine as recommended. I have a friend who does outboard motor prop repair and he had a balancer I used to balance the blades when I cut them down. I found out today what I saw fly off my car a couple of days ago while gearing up to 80mph. It was one of my fan blades. That also may explain some of my heating problems. Ordered a new fan today and will be elevating the engine to clear the 15" blades. I have a Fluidyne radiator which is pretty wide. Will have to pull the radiator to get the fans changed out, also a pain in the butt. How tough is it to elevate that engine to get some washers between it and the motor mount??
Duke
Donation Time
How tough is it to elevate that engine to get some washers between it and the motor mount??
I just put a block of wood under the oil pan and took the weight off of the engine mounts with a floor jack. I then unbolted the adapters that are bolted to the frame. Then I put big 1/8" washers between the adapter and bottom of the engine mount. Getting the three bolts that go through the frame to the adapter started was a SOB though.