"So based on your research and experience what would be the best engine for the Alpine? 2.5? Fusion? Some 2.3 or 2.0? "
I hate to sound like a smart ass (sort of) but the answer depends on what you want. Lets say you want about 175 hp.
The 2.5 will get it the old fashioned way. Cubic inches with a flat power band all the way to 6500. Balance shafts, so it runs electric motor smooth, even with archaic motor mounts.
The Ranger 2.3 gets it the bad ass way. No balance shaft (they are for sissies) and simple, lightweight crank. But it has the 2.0 head, so it runs out of breath at about 5k. Supposedly the strongest crank and block.
The Fusion 2.3 adds balance shafts and a heavier crank to the Ranger, also better flowing head. So things sort of balance out. But the balance shafts smooth out the big thumper, but add rotating weight. You can put this head on the Ranger or remove the balance shafts.
The 2.0 has to be built as a screamer with some sacrifice on the bottom end. No balance shafts, but then the smaller engine does not need it as desperately as its bigger brothers. What you want really determines what you should get.
"Is there a mix and match head/block combo?"
As near as I can determine, any head will work on any block, but not a simple "throw it on and bolt it down" type of operation. Many details involved. The killer combo would involve putting the 2.5 head (flows like crazy) on the block of your choice. The 2.5 is big bore and longer stroke but has a rod angularity problem that limits it to less than 7000 rpm. Still, I can rev to 80 mph in third (6500 rpm).
There is quite a bit of talk about the 2.5 cams. The intake cam is computer controlled variable. Initially, the word was the engine was a turd when run without the variable feature. Nothing could be farther from the truth. It is a beast, the variable cam mostly cleans up emissions.
Also beside the transmission what is the advantage of the ranger engine?"
Well, first of all, the Ranger transmission will work with any block. Simply use the Ranger flywheel, starter and clutch package. Other than that, it seems the Ranger engine and block starts life better suited to high HP modification and use. For what your talking about, it has little to offer over it brothers.
"They all have that weird rear coolant passage at the rear."
Yes, dammit!
"Would a FWD oil pan fit around the Alpine cross member easier?"
My first Duratec engine was a Ranger, the second is a Fusion. Neither fit around the crossmember. The problem is the location of the oil pump and there isn't a thing you can do about that. A problem with the fwd pans is they are angled on the bottom to be level when installed in the car. That makes them angled the wrong waywhen installed in my car. As a result, they are too low when installed, even though they are not that deep. The Ranger pan is just too deep. The Ecoboost fwd pans are angled in the opposite direction, so they would be the best solution for me. Whether or not they would be best for you would depend on if you set the engine leaned over. Mine is at about a 3* angle. The "word" on the 'net is that any pan will fit any engine, as long as the oil pickup tube that goes with a given pan is used.
"I am set up with a T5 already so I would be inclined to get the Quad4rods bell housing to mate to the engine."
You will still have to use the stock starter, it bolts onto the block and is a major PIA, as it positions the solenoid at 90 * to the block, which places it smack into the steering arms. I canted my starter over against the block and one steering arm barely clears below it, the other barely clears over the top. Tight - Oh Yeah!
I have seen a custom made starter that does what I did, but a better job, naturally. Can't remember who had it - I think it was across the Pond.
The Ranger trans requires tunnel surgery, don't know how it compare to that required for the T5. The Ranger box places the shifter too far forward. I made a remote shifter that solved the problem. A very easy and undetectable fix. If you do use the Ranger box, all driveline components are factory stock and the Alpine clutch MC is compatible with the Ranger slave.
Al, I trust you have looked at my Duratec engine swap ramblings. Let me say they are simply a way that I saw that I could get the job done, given my resources, needs and abilities. The problem areas I encountered are real, how you solve them may be totally different. A couple of examples:
I knew we wanted AC. Where to put it? Where is the room? How do I get lines to and from it? What does that do to the alternator location?
Alternator. I saw heat and the header as the problem. I am not a gifted fabricator, especially twisting things around in three dimension in limited space. So fancy headers were out and I was practically forced into the solution I used. You will likely see the issue differently and come up with a better solution.
Speaking of solutions, I think a fellow more inclined to body work (I think machinist type solutions) would look at the water outlet issue and say, "I'll just relieve the firewall here and solve a bunch of problems." That would probably allow the engine to be set back about an inch and vastly releive the crossmember/oil pan issue.
If I can be of any help, let me know. While it is neat to have the only Duratec engined Alpine in the world, it is a terrific combo (heck, nobody will even reveal their 20-80 time) and I'd love to see someone turn it into a project many others could follow. I'll help all I can.
Bill
