2.8 rebuild

[jzuk7]

I am finally able to start the V6 swap on my series 5. Last spring I found a 2.8 from a 77 Mustang 2, with a 4-speed transmission. When I bought it, the engine turned over. Now it is locked up. I took the heads off, and it has rust in the cylinders. I also pulled the oil pan and bottom end looks good.

I think I am going to tear the engine completely down and rebuild it. Does anyone know where I can get a manual that shows all of the torque specs and clearances? Will the Hayes or Chilton’s manual for a ranger/bronco II, have the information?

Thanks

Joe

 

[tfctpa]

Haynes manual should have the specs. There is one listed on ebay item # 260073723788

 

[Jim E]

These blocks are pretty hard and often the bores are in spec even on a high mileage engine. So check the bores you may be able to just hone the block and freshen it up.

 

[jzuk7]

These blocks are pretty hard and often the bores are in spec even on a high mileage engine. So check the bores you may be able to just hone the block and freshen it up.

I am praying to get by with just that.

While researching this, I came across http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8L_Performance.html

At the bottom, it mentions drilling a hole into the water passage between the exhaust valves. It apparently helps with cooling the head. Has anyone done this? Is this worth it?

Thanks
Joe

 

[Jim E]

You actually use the head gasket as a template and drill four holes in each head, is supose to make for more even cooling in the heads or some such. I did this on my engine and also install valves from a 2.9 and spent about a week porting the heads. I used the Pruett book for a guide on this stuff as in how to shape the ports and reduce the guide boss, oh and it also has pictures of how to drill the water passages in the heads.

I think the port work on the heads along with the 2.9 valves and the Jose grind on the cam makes a world of difference on the power out put of these little engines. But let me warn you the heads are a real bear to port.

 

[Jim E]

Pretty sure all the info for this is on my "Alpine info plus" CD if you want a copy let me know where to send it, then once you have it if you like it send or Paypal me a couple bucks to cover shipping and such or not.

 

[weaselkeeper]

Jim: I'd love to see what you have on your CD as it relates to 2.8 rebuild. I plan to start disassembling mine soon. Be happy to cover shipping and what other costs.

 

[Jim E]

Pete,
What I have is a bunch of stuff on modifing the stock engine and some things about teh V6 from the Pruett book. Actually the Pruett stuff is good for the head work but it also covers a lot of other things about building the V6 that rerally is more for all out racing from days gone by. The head stuff is good though.

The other thing I sugest is you use ARP rod bolts and if you cannot locate a set for the 2.8 the smaller 302 ARP rod bolt is the same same and usually cost less than the ones packaged for the 2.8

For the cam I used Delta had them grind the cam Jose likes on a aftermarket Crane cam which allowed them to give me more lift than you can get on a stock cam but the grind on a stock cam should still be deadly.

The other stuff I did was just remove casting flash from the inside and outside of the block, polish the rod beams, balance the rotating assembly and deck the block just to equal up the deck hieght. Were I to do it over would have cut a bit more off the block to get another half point of compression. What I sugest you not do is try and cut the heads to do this being there is not much meat in the heads. Oh and I got the oil pump upgrade and sugest you get a new oil pump drive cause all the ones I have seen out of used engines have a bit of a wear problem and for ten bucks it just seems wise to get a new one.

I also used the Dura spark distributor but not the duraspark control box, I just happened to have a Crane HI6 so used it. This did cause a problem with the Chevy alternator and required a diode be installed to prevent a feed back that would not let you turn the car off....

 

[jzuk7]

Pretty sure all the info for this is on my "Alpine info plus" CD if you want a copy let me know where to send it, then once you have it if you like it send or Paypal me a couple bucks to cover shipping and such or not.

Jim,

I sent you a PM

 

[bluoval]

manual

try ebay ford parts , found a complete manual set there ... if you need any numbers let me know happy to pm them to you am pulling my 28 out tomorrow for a complete rebuild thanks earl (blu oval)

 

[Jim E]

Earl, Pete and Joe the CD is in the mail.

 

[jzuk7]

Cool. Thanks for mailing it.

I checked into the book on modifing Ford 60 degree V6s. Amazon has it for $125. Is it worth it?

Joe

 

[V6 JOSE]

Cool. Thanks for mailing it.

I checked into the book on modifing Ford 60 degree V6s. Amazon has it for $125. Is it worth it?

Joe

Joe,

I really don't think it is worth that much money, because most of the information in it is not applicable to your street V6. The head work section is good, but the rest of it doesn't apply to what a street engine can use. I think that probably someone on this board, that might have a copy, would sell or lend you their copy so you could get the head modification information.

Jose

 

[weaselkeeper]

Jim. Got back to town today and found the CD. Thank you. I'd like to make it right with you, so let me know how much and I'll drop some $$ asap. Pete

 

[Jim E]

I really do not have a price for this stuff... a couple bucks will cover the cost of the CD and mailing. As you can see by the packaging I do not have a lot in it other than time gathering the info up and putting it in one place. Well the scanning on the one thing was a bit of a pain but it is way done.

So Paypal or mail me a couple dollars or not it is ok either way.