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1967 Alpine V-8 Conversion Questions

J

jjohnson

I recently purchased a 1967 Alpine that is mid way through a V-8 (289) conversion. The motor is in place, the steering rack is in, frame has been notched for exhaust (nicely done) and the trans (T5) is mounted in place. Left for me: install new firewall and tunnel (I have a pro who will do this for me), swap rear to 8.8, get the clutch, brake and gas pedal working (this is where I need the most help/info), I'm sure there’s more that I'm not thinking of. If anyone here has any experience with an Alpine V-8 conversion, I would like to hear about it.

If anyone has some 4 lug front hubs I need a set. My car has wire wheels and I want to convert it to lugs.
 
Ken Ellis

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Might be interested in the wires and hubs, and can supply hubs in that case. What shape are the wheels in, and what state are the wheels in?

Ken
 
britbeam

britbeam

Donation Time
jjohnson said:
I recently purchased a 1967 Alpine that is mid way through a V-8 (289) conversion. The motor is in place, the steering rack is in, frame has been notched for exhaust (nicely done) and the trans (T5) is mounted in place. Left for me: install new firewall and tunnel (I have a pro who will do this for me), swap rear to 8.8, get the clutch, brake and gas pedal working (this is where I need the most help/info), I'm sure there’s more that I'm not thinking of. If anyone here has any experience with an Alpine V-8 conversion, I would like to hear about it.

If anyone has some 4 lug front hubs I need a set. My car has wire wheels and I want to convert it to lugs.
Click to expand...

Why will you use the 8.8 rear diff? Im not positive but I believe it has more links etc. to connect (weld brackets ect.). The 8" rear diff is pretty straight forward as far as being similar to the Alpine. What are your thoughts on this?
Dwain V6 Krazy
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Unless you have already bought the 8.8. I would recommend not using it. The 8.8 has several problems The first and most problematical, is the fact that the axle is the inner race of the wheel bearing. If you lose a wheel bearing, you lose the axle, and if you shortened the axles to make the rear end fit the Alpine without wheel flares, you will need to have another axle made. You can get away from this problem, and the fact that it also uses C clips, to hold the axles in, by using C-clpi eliminators. The 8.8 also has a five bolt pattern, so you'll need to have the same pattern put into your front hubs.

The next problem, is that the 8.8 eats more horse power, than tha Ford 8". Unless you plan on making more than 400 hp with your 289, the 8" will live a long time in the light Alger. It is also heavier than the 8". I have a customer that put one into his V6 Alpine, and has two different bolt patterns, front to back.

Jose:)
 
J

jjohnson

Ken,
They are in preety good condition...some light surface rust, but thats about it. I am in Canton Mississippi. How much for the hubs?
Thanks,
JD
 
J

jjohnson

I was going to get a Currie 8.8 with the 9" flanges and currie axles. I can get the whole thing turn key for about $2k. I know this is probably overkill for a mild 289...would the 8 inch be cheaper?
Thanks,
JD
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
V6 JOSE said:
Unless you have already bought the 8.8. I would recommend not using it. The 8.8 has several problems The first and most problematical, is the fact that the axle is the inner race of the wheel bearing. If you lose a wheel bearing, you lose the axle, and if you shortened the axles to make the rear end fit the Alpine without wheel flares, you will need to have another axle made. You can get away from this problem, and the fact that it also uses C clips, to hold the axles in, by using C-clpi eliminators. The 8.8 also has a five bolt pattern, so you'll need to have the same pattern put into your front hubs.

The next problem, is that the 8.8 eats more horse power, than tha Ford 8". Unless you plan on making more than 400 hp with your 289, the 8" will live a long time in the light Alger. It is also heavier than the 8". I have a customer that put one into his V6 Alpine, and has two different bolt patterns, front to back.

Jose:)
Click to expand...

Joe,

I got to tell you the 8 inch ford is becoming like hens teeth, and the 8.8 is rather common.

1) The wheel bearing and C-clip problem is solvable with a c-clip elliminator kit, which allows you to run normal bearings that retain the axle.

2) 8.8 axles are the same as 7.5 axles (28 spline), and ford did use 4 lug axles till recently. Just put a 4 lug 7.5 axle in the 8.8.

3) Finding axles that can be shortened is not a big problem becuase all the big axle mfgrs make axles now that are cut into the shaft not knurled like the OEMs. Look for a used set of mosier/dutchman/ETC on ebay and you can shorten them no problema.

Personally I'd use the 7.5 over the 8.8 due to weight, which is plenty strong, and lighter than an 8 inch.
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
RootesRacer said:
Joe,

I got to tell you the 8 inch ford is becoming like hens teeth, and the 8.8 is rather common.

1) The wheel bearing and C-clip problem is solvable with a c-clip elliminator kit, which allows you to run normal bearings that retain the axle.

2) 8.8 axles are the same as 7.5 axles (28 spline), and ford did use 4 lug axles till recently. Just put a 4 lug 7.5 axle in the 8.8.

3) Finding axles that can be shortened is not a big problem becuase all the big axle mfgrs make axles now that are cut into the shaft not knurled like the OEMs. Look for a used set of mosier/dutchman/ETC on ebay and you can shorten them no problema.

Personally I'd use the 7.5 over the 8.8 due to weight, which is plenty strong, and lighter than an 8 inch.
Click to expand...
The 7.5 is not lighter than an 8". The Ford 8" is almost the same weight as the stock Alpine rear end. The 8.8 draws more power, because it has bigger and longer gear teeth. The 8" is still available in any Mustang II with either the V6 or V8 in it.

Modifying the 8" will also be cheaper too. A mild 289 will not break one either. The drop out third member in the 8" is way easier to set up and swap gears too. In either an 8.8 or 7.5, you have to completely disassemble the fear set, in order to change gears. I used to have two third members with two different ratios, when I used to have my Alpines. I could change the gears ratio in 45 minutes, so I could go racing one day, then put the higher ratio set in for every day driving. 8" rear ends are getting a little harder to find, but are worth the effort. Why go through all those changes, just to get something that still will not compare to the 8"?

Jose :)
 
J

jjohnson

Looks like the 8" may be a better choice for my car...I did some checking and it looks like I can save a few hundred over the 8.8 on a complete 8" rear end from Currie.

Has anyone had any experience relocating the brake / clutch / gas pedals for the V-8? How about aftermarket (Wilwood) pedals?
 
C

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
The 8 inch is the right way to go.It can pretty well handle what you can give it.On the lister I have the 351 windsor dynoed at 270 HP and 330 pounds of torque.I did have a good shop go through the rear end after awhile.I told the owner to do it as if it was his. It was in good shape but he put in some new parts in the diff and said the axle bearings were still like new
The 62 has had the 8 inch rear end since 1979 and is still in good shape.
I do think once i get a few miles on the 302 and eveything is settled in I willtake the rear end to the same shop.
I do think you will have no problems ever with the Currie rear end.You may as well order it with the rear disc brakes at the same time as I do know they do it.They I do believe will make it as a narrowed rear as well.
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I read somewhere the 8" will handle an almost infinite amount of horsepower on a sub 3000 pound car that is not running slicks. There is simply not enough traction to break them.

Bill
 
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