1962 Series II - Clutch Removal

[1962300]

I have pulled the engine & trans out.
I have unbolted the trans from the engine.

What are the next steps to remove the clutch & other components from the rear of the engine?
It is probably quite simple, but reading the shop manual with its terminology is not sinking in.

Thank you for any help & guidance!
And if anyone knows a mentor in the Southern California area; I will certainly need one!
I will need to deliver the trans and clutch components to someone (or a shop) to go through.

Thanks!

 

[1962300]

Hello,
Just wondered if there were any thoughts to my above ask.
Thanks!

 

[hartmandm]

Did you remove all of the bolts attaching the bell housing to the engine? If so, the bell housing should slide away from the engine and then fully separate. The gearbox input shaft goes into a bushing in the flywheel, so you need to be careful separating the two parts. Support the weight of the gearbox as you move it away from the engine. There are a couple of guide pins for aligning the bell housing. The bell housing might bind on those guide pins a bit.

Here are some photos of my series V. Series 2 is similar.

Clutch pressure plate:


Bell housing:


Mike

 

[1962300]

Thanks Mike - I have the transmission and engine separated. I am just left with the clutch assembly bolted to the back of the engine. Didn't know if it was now a thing where we just keep exposing the most exposed bolts, layer by layer; like an onion.
Thanks

 

[hartmandm]

Remove the bolts attaching the pressure plate to the flywheel. The clutch disc floats freely behind the pressure plate. You will want to use a clutch disc alignment tool for reassembly. Some people make their own. Sunbeam Specialties sells a plastic tool - part AC53.


Mike

 

[Shannon Boal]

Loosen the pressure plate bolts about half-way....the cover (pressure plate) should push itself away from the flywheel. Leave one bolt in place finger-tight and stick a screw-driver between the cover and the flywheel....remove the bolt, wiggle the cover and catch the disc as it falls out. Details to follow about surface quality of flywheel, how to remove and replace the bushing and what causes the aurora borealis....

Thanks Mike - I have the transmission and engine separated. I am just left with the clutch assembly bolted to the back of the engine. Didn't know if it was now a thing where we just keep exposing the most exposed bolts, layer by

 

[Shannon Boal]

I have found a lot of little ways to go wrong with clutch work. The starter ring gear should not be worn or have a spot with teeth much narrower (worn by the starter grinding) than the other teeth. If they all are 1/2" wide but three teeth are1/8" wide, that would be a problem. The flywheel surface should be reasonably smooth and may need only some hand work with medium emery cloth. The brass bushing can be removed with a puller from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/two-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-58209.html) or using a close-fitting shaft, heavy grease and hammer blows to "hydraulic" it out. The release bearing in Mike's pictures is carried on two trunnions, like an old-timey cannon. Those trunnions get coated liberally with grease. The spring loaded clips that keep it in place are important.....Make sure your new disc fits freely on the splines of your transmission input shaft, sliding easily, not sticking at all. Put the disc on the shaft and rotate the shaft while looking at the edge of the disc for any run-out from a bent disc....(it is possible to bend a disc while installing a transmission when your arms get tired!) As mentioned, the disc must be in the center of the cover, and tighten the bolts gradually. When you are done, the pressure plate "fingers" should all be the same height, no visible variation. I like the onion metaphor!

 

[1962300]

Thank you all SO much!

 

[hartmandm]

When you reinstall the pressure plate, I believe the WSM procedure is to equally tighten each bolt in a star pattern, like you do with wheel lug nuts. Use a torque wrench and progressively increase the torque on each bolt until you do a final round of tightening at the target torque.

Mike

 

[Tim R]

Matt,
If the release bearing is worn and needs replacing I would recommend fitting a roller clutch bearing instead of the carbon type. In the UK we have had a very large number of pattern carbon bearings either have the carbon ring come free from the mount or break up completely. This is a real pain as you then have to separate the engine and gearbox again to fix it. The roller bearing is a high quality replacement and should last for many, many years.
Tim R