• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

15-40w in a 1725

Scotty

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
I've read some threads about 15-40 oil, meant for diesel, in an Alpine engine. My understanding is that you're supposed to use 30w, so could using 15-40 damage a rebuilt engine in general or one that operates in northern California where there's no snow or severe weather changes? I ask this because I had a box of brand new motor oil given to me that's 15-40 and I have a spare oil filter, so considering my options.

I don't want to wreck my motor and would have no problem donating it to the Salvation Army or what not.

I know oil choices are a hot topic on this forum, so I'm going to preface this thread by stating that I want to only discuss using 15-40 in an Alpine engine and it's effects on that engine :).

As always, thank you for your input :)
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I can't see how it will substantively harm your motor. Being it's for diesel it may have more zinc in it, which would be a plus. But the viscosity won't really foul things up.
 
Last edited:
hartmandm

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
I use 15w-40 Brad Penn 1 in my series V. It has the elevated zinc and phosphorous levels the flat tappet engines need. I'm in Delaware, so warmer and colder weather than you have in northern CA. For the oil that was given to you, have you checked the zinc and phosphorous levels? You may need to add a ZDDP additive.

Quote from fellow member Tom Hayden in another thread: From the articles I have read and referenced, it apears that 1200-1500 ppm (0.12% to 0.15%) concentration of Zinc and Phosphorous seems to be about what is needed. And this is also what ZDD Plus aims to achieve.

Mike
 
Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
Bob is the oil guy, ha that's an actual website and not related to the fevered opinions that you'd find here... Of you were close I'd say I'll haul it to the haz mat drop ;)
Valvoline makes a high zinc racing oil too that's reasonably priced. That Brad Penn product was suggested by a real Cobra builder but for trans applications.
PS remember that in California they're supposed to pay you like $0.22 a gallon for your scrap oil. The O'Reilly store has a $2 coupon they give you but you have to ask and you have to tell them that's what it's for get the manager. You're just getting back some of those it's not a tax it's a fee.... $
 
Mike O'D

Mike O'D

Gold Level Sponsor
Multi grade is the only way to go. Flows better when "cold" and still maintains viscosity when it's hot. Modern oil is far superior to what they had back when these cars were new. Add ZDDP if it makes you feel better (some will say it's not necessary - you can find opinions both ways).
 
Shannon Boal

Shannon Boal

Platinum Level Sponsor
I have run Amsoil AME 15W-40 HD Diesel and Marine oil in a series V for twenty five years.....It was recommended by Amsoil at the time for antique cars because it has excellent corrosion protection for cars that sit unused for months at a time. It has high levels of zinc, and a total base number higher than 12 (hence great corrosion protection). I have a problem with the engine cranking slowly in cold weather, though it always starts....I may try a 30 weight, like Amsoil Z-Rod....maybe a gear-reduction starter
 
Alpine 1789

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
A marine oil is an interesting idea. Kind of like using a marine battery for the same reason, something I have also heard suggested. But, the fact that you find the car hard to start in cold weather is a little worrying. Are you talking about Florida cold or cold as us northerners know it?

p.s. Welcome back!
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
In a multi vis oil, only the first number is the indicator of cold weather performance. So there is no cold weather advantage using 30 weight oil unless the first number is 10 or lower.

Bill
 
Shannon Boal

Shannon Boal

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi Jim! First stroke (1/2 second-3/4 second) cranking is slow, then normal cranking speed....symptom about the same at 20F as 45F. It does this when it sits for more than a week. Maybe the carb oil all drips out and causes this, I can't figure it out... I use the same oil in the carbs PS Great stuff about motor oil on yewtoobe; look for "Project Farm".
 
Eleven

Eleven

Platinum Level Sponsor
Went to my local NAPA last week to get some 15-40w Rotelle Guy there said that ZDDP was taken out of diesel oil now. I couldn't see anything on the container so he might be right. Or I am blind. Either way I bought some racing oil with it but racing oil is not really suited for daily street driving. No detergents, etc. Good stuff and should work fine but it is rather specific for use. I think the Hagerty magazine had a good article on oil but I couldn't find it. In that article the oil experts said ZDDP is not needed with modern oils but I am not going to test it.
 
Shannon Boal

Shannon Boal

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill Blue said:
Try Bobistheoilguy.com No BS or sales pitch. Just the facts.
Bill
Click to expand...
I have, and you are right, Bill.
You can rely on Al Amatuzio's company for in-depth info, and they cite sources....He was always driven to produce the best....which is funny; I never heard anybody say that he was hard to work for...he passed away a year or two ago
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top