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Brake Servo - which is correct?

Nick Farrow

Donation Time
My Series 3 is fitted with a Lockheed brake srervo, which I was under the impression was a modern replacement. To that end I recently got hold of a Girling unit in need of a bebuild so I would have the correct item in my car. The 'new' servo hasn't arrived yet, but I thought I'd do a bit of research beforehand, so I've been browsing the WSM. After a couple of minutes I've noticed that the WSM also has details for the Lockheed Servo, implying that this was also fitted! Can someone give me an idea of which one is correct? I'm not normally that bothered by this kind of thing, but I think the Girling unit just looks nicer!

Cheers.
 

V_Mad

Donation Time
WSM124 lists Girling for the Alpine and Lockheed for the Rapier.

Rebuilding the Girling units is a bit hit and miss, and the rebuild kits are not ideal. If you decide to hav a go Nick, let me know and I will pass on what I know, based on two rebuilds so far.
 

Nick Farrow

Donation Time
Thanks for that Chris! It's on my list of things to do this autumn/winter. Any insight is great! My current Lockheed one seems to be sticking slightly, but otherwise seems OK. Wonder why they specified different ones for the Rapier and Alpine? Is the lockheed one more powerfull (higher ratio) maybe, to compensate for the extra weight?
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
I think the Alpine/Tiger was the only Rootes car that used Girling brake systems. The rest used Lockheed parts. Maybe it had something to do with the Series I using those relatively new-fangled front disk brakes. Perhaps Lockheed didn't yet offer a reliable and/or inexpensive disk brake setup in 1959. Note that while our brakes are Girling, the clutch hydraulics are Lockheed.


Thanks for that Chris! It's on my list of things to do this autumn/winter. Any insight is great! My current Lockheed one seems to be sticking slightly, but otherwise seems OK. Wonder why they specified different ones for the Rapier and Alpine? Is the lockheed one more powerfull (higher ratio) maybe, to compensate for the extra weight?
 

V_Mad

Donation Time
Nick, strip the unit down and check the hydaulic bores before you invest in a rebuild kit. if they are too corroded to polish up, its not worth trying to rebuild. I polished the two bores using some fine wet/dry paper and some brake fluid with a power drill. I finished off with a nice fine cross hone look not too shiny as I think this helps prevent the seal jamming.

The vacuum cylinder must not be polished shiny, and should also be cross honed leaving fine grooves to help keep some lubricant there. More later when you are ready.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Nick, strip the unit down and check the hydaulic bores before you invest in a rebuild kit. if they are too corroded to polish up, its not worth trying to rebuild.

Or, you can do as I did, and send that cylinder off to White Post and have them do a three-step sleeving in bronze - it ain't cheap, but it will last a lifetime.
 
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