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Differential leak?

Lester

Donation Time
I noticed today that the differential was dark and moist on a large area. Are leaks common, and if so, where? Also, what are the preferred fluids for the rear end, and transmission?
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
Differential fluid is Hypoid gear oil
Transmission is Castrol HD30 engine oil or Royal Purple (see recent thread)
 

Lester

Donation Time
I've never messed with hubs or a rear end. What vent are you referring to?
How will I determine if the hubs ends are ok, just look for fluid?
Does Rick sell parts to restore these? Thanks guys, so much.
-Lester
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
On the top of the Alpine axle casing you shouls see what looks kinda like a metal mushroom, this is the vent. It allows air to leave the casing as it heats up in use to prevent the pressure from forcing the oil out the pinion or axle seals.
 

Lester

Donation Time
I'll check that vent. I need to pull the rear right drum, because the seal around the brake cylinder is leaking. Any tips before I embark on pulling said drum?
Thanks, Lester

Also, Wayne, I haven't checked the floats yet. I'm pursuing a possible vacuum leak at the moment. I've got a thread on the carbs now,"Flooding?".
 

Pumpkin

Donation Time
leaks

Lester, if you do one you might as well do all. Once it's in the air drop the 3rd member , CLEAN out the gunk, replace that seal if it is leaking, do BOTH wheel seals, and if you haven't done them before, you might as well replace the wheel bearings now, rather than summer.

Also if you are there you may as well check out the "U" joints for slack. Get them done too. Check while in gear or ofcourse emergency brake on.. Wrist twist the prop shaft and listen..or feel a slip..

You can get all the bearings at a local bearing company,/or and the "U " joints at SS, http://www.rootes.com/ or Classic Sunbeam, 800-247-8623

Chuck
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
If you're that far in, don't forget to test the ring gear bolts, which are almost always loosened (by compression over time of the soft lockwashers) to the point of being finger-tight.



Lester, if you do one you might as well do all. Once it's in the air drop the 3rd member , CLEAN out the gunk, replace that seal if it is leaking, do BOTH wheel seals, and if you haven't done them before, you might as well replace the wheel bearings now, rather than summer.

Also if you are there you may as well check out the "U" joints for slack. Get them done too. Check while in gear or ofcourse emergency brake on.. Wrist twist the prop shaft and listen..or feel a slip..

You can get all the bearings at a local bearing company,/or and the "U " joints at SS, http://www.rootes.com/ or Classic Sunbeam, 800-247-8623

Chuck
 

Jim E

Donation Time
I put repair sleeves on the hubs the last time I replaced the seals. This gave the seal a good surface to ride on and actually seal. Have had pretty bad luck in the past with teh hub seal thing. Oh and if you want repair sleeves take a hub to your local bearing distributor and they can find you one.
 

Lester

Donation Time
Thanks all. I hope I don't get in that far, just yet. I want at least one summer before I fully strip it down. But if I have to, you can bet I'll be back for more of that great advice. If it is only seeping small amounts of fluid around the filler plug bolt and the immediate area, but is not leaking at the hubs, what am I looking at?
Thanks, Lester
 
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