• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

DuraPine II

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Bill, did you go to a single Ujoint on the lower one. I noticed the double Ujoint in the older pictures. That is why he had the support bearing on the shaft.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, just a single joint, top and bottom. The changes I make in the steering gear resulted in the rack input shaft being rotated back and down, reducing the angles considerably. Only two bearing points, one on the firewall and the rack. Two bearing points between the steering shaft and the outer cover. One at the steering wheel, one at the firewall . About as simple as I am.

Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Another landmark!!
The transmission tunnel is complete, at least a far as the sheet metal work. The area around the gear shifter and drink holder will be topped with wood that has been contoured to match the front portion of the tunnel. Then it will be covered by Fatmat Rattletrap, which is 50% thicker than the standard Fatmat that was used on the old car. The sheet metal for the project is 1/16" commercial shelving that was gifted to me by a big windstorm about ten years ago. This project used about all that was left from projects over the years.

IMG_7134.JPG
Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, I've finally got it together. My life, that is. Two or three week ago I finally started to sleep 7-8 hrs a night, which led to being able to work about all day, rather than one or two hours with intermittent naps. The results, as measured by progress on the car have been dramatic. Right now, my biggest problem facing completion of the car is the neuropathy - after a few hours, it becomes very painful to stand and sitting does bring much relief. I have to lay down.

The improved physical ability has led to improved mental outllook. I now find myself wanting to work on the car, for so many months it was just something that had to be done,

Bill
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
I found this to be a good calculator when I was trying to figure out all the wheel/tire possibilities for our cars. (I thought about creating a chart, but there were just too many variables)

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Punch in the original wheel/tire specs (I've been told it's 185/70 R13 with 4.5" rims with -27 offset), although Bill, you could put in the Saab wheels' specs. Then punch in the proposed specs (I did 185/55 R15 tire on 5" width rim with the 0 offset). And here's the result I got:

Package 2 is 27 mm (1.1'') closer to suspension/brakes components. Make sure that you have enough room for that. If not, consider lower offset, narrower tires or using spacers.​
This is a fantastic app!

Do you have the offset for stock, factory 13" rims for use in comparison to potential 15" rims and tires?

I came across a set of VTO repro LAT 70 wheels in 15 X 6.5, 20 mm offset, 4 x 108. The price was
right (free) so I brought them home.

They are probably wider than I want, but the app is useful for making comparisons.

At this time, folding the inner fender "lip" or the valance is a nonstarter.

I'm not at all sure I'm OK with the "look" of expanded chrome and reduced sidewall but first things
first - clearances. These wheels came off a Tiger but I don't know if the wheel fenders or the valance had
been rolled.

I'm interested in better highway mileage so 15" wheels/tires should help.


VTO.JPG
 
Last edited:

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Allen, not sure I understand your question, so here is an answer, probably not the answer. To the best of my recollection, the stock wheel offset is about 1 1/4". My 6" X 15" wheels have 33 mm or 1.3" offset. They worked just fine with the stock steering, but not with what I had to modify in order to utilize the new (Tigerish) steering. Perhaps I should modify that statement. They worked fine with lead wheel weight, but interfered with the new style, zinc wheel weights, which are much thicker.

15" wheels for better mileage is definitely a "maybe". It seems to be devilishly difficult to put tire greater than 24" diameter on an Alpine without surgery. Wider tires make it even more difficult.

Bill
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Thanks, Bill.

I think I'll start with the 185/60/15's which will get the car a foot further down the road with each revolution than
the 185/60/13's I'm currently using.

You've already demonstrated they are a probable fit, and stand about as tall as a tire can get without going
beyond the 24" guideline.

They also have the same sidewall as the 185/60/13's I currently use so the change in appearance would be less radical.

Maybe the used tire store will have a set for cheap to use experimentally.

I'd like to drive to the SUNI in September if it isn't postponed by the pandemic.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Got the Fatmat "Rattletrap" stuff installed. What a job!
Now to figure out why the A/C condenser will not fit in the space ahead of the radiator. That's where it resided in the Orange Car for about ten years. I swear, no two Alpines are in any way, the same.

BillIMG_7229.JPG
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
A/C condenser cleaned (it was filthy with bugs/road grit) and trans oil cooler mounted. This cooler is 15" X 7", the largest I can mount in front of the radiator without extensive surgery.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7231.JPG
    IMG_7231.JPG
    474.1 KB · Views: 42

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
First family portrait of the coil and cruise control vacuum reservoir. They will live together in the compartment under the hold latch. That is two things out of the engine compartment. The coil is a particularly difficult thing to locate. Installing this is going to be a treat.

IMG_7233.JPG
Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Got it installed, but now I wonder about the wisdom of placing the coil in a somewhat isolated area. Heat buildup of coil operation. It will no longer be blasted with 195 degree air, but hey, maybe that cools it.

Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Introducing the latest team, Go and Whoa. Now to make them "Live".
IMG_7240.JPG
The brake pedal is a stock Alpine unit mounted in the clutch position and bent to fit. The pedal pad was on the car when delivered.

Bill
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Nice ! Now for me one:)


Kidding of course. I am looking forward to being that close to finishing.

Paint looks very nice on my GT. Hoping to spray the body tomorrow if all goes well. Man there are a lot of little pieces to get covered.

Would have hung the doors today but had forgotten to paint the door screws:rolleyes:
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Dan, good thing you are kidding. Sold two 6:1 pedals, I am out of pedals! I too wish I was "that close" to finishing.

I discovered that moving the brake pedal to the clutch position not only allows the use of master cylinders with motor-side outlet ports, you HAVE to use them if the parts available to me are a good example.
Bill
 
Last edited:

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Here we have Accelerator Central. The vertical rod coming out at the bottom is hooked to the accelerator pedal. The cruise control beaded cable comes in at the top left, control cable to the intake manifold butterfly is on the top right, bottom right cable is too the automatic transmission. One of those simple things that took over a week to sort out.

IMG_7245.JPG
 
Top