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The Journey Begins - Series I V6 Restomod

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
looks like you put one long tube thru both X members rather than 2 shorter ones.
Hillman, A close look will reveal what Bill did is pretty much standard for the pass-thru odification. The stock pass-thru links both portions of the "X" frame top one another.
I do the same on my dual exhaust pass-thru's. One piece of piping approximately 15" with ends cut at angles to match the frame (same as original).
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
The steering column is shortened and set up for Dan R's EPS system. Folks that are experienced with Dan's EPS will note that we made a bit of a modification to the system...rather than welding a fitting on to the shaft to couple with the EPS we machined the shaft itself to fit

To clarify what Bill is saying (I think), He machined the inner shaft coming out of the steering box to a Double "D" fitting, rather than welding.

I considered this when first designing the EPS. But considered it may prove more difficult for some DIY activists.

Never the less the machining makes for a good idea.
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill, In a word of caution, your plate may interfere with the transmission (A4LD) output shaft housing when installing the engine and tranny due to the length...

I think we are OK Dan...we had the engine and transmission in and out of the car a couple of times...as you say, it’s not pretty!
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Another little bit of progress....new 16 gallon EFI configured fuel tank mounted and plumbed for the stock filler tube location.
 

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Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Another update....installed the new front valence....the one that came with the car was toast and I was only able to find useable bits and pieces of other ones so we went ahead and fabbed one from scratch...we improved on the original design by making it with heavier steel and modifying the air inlets a bit to improve flow....we also left out the center hole which seems to crack in many cases. Also fitted the windshield frame and started fitting both the soft and hard tops to insure that evrything is lined up correctly....getting close to actually starting body work after a year of rust repair!
 

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DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Gotta feel good to get this far a long:)

Body panels look like they are aligning nicely too.
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yeah, it’s coming along...the hood is looking good...we have a little work yet to do on the doors but given that we have used pieces and parts from 3 different cars I’m pretty happy with how things are coming together!
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
A little primer makes you realize things just mighhhttt be beginnninnnngggggg to come together:)
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
A little more progress to report...getting closer to having some color on it...
 

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Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Parts restoration continues...freshly rebuilt A4LD transmission...note the OD lockout pressure switch added to the tail housing.
 

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Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
Looking good. I wish i had gotten all my suspension bushings replaced before I sent the car off for paint. That will be job one when I get it back, followed by the new wiring harness, then getting the engine and trans back in then the interior. I have a lot of work to do before september.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Front and rear suspension ready to go...just as an aside...all you Sunbeam veterans already know this but getting that %$#@! sway bar attached to the front crossmember is a real bear!
Alpines seem to be full of those %$#! things. Fuel tanks on the later Series cars are an example. Also adjusting door gaps. The factory assembly cost must have been astronomical.

Bill
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Also adjusting door gaps.

That reminds me of a note provided to me years ago.... drill several pilot holes about 1/8" into each of the door hinges BEFORE you remove the doors so you can reset them more easily.

Neat idea if you can learn this trick before removal.

Even better if you can REMEMBER that you were told of the trick, way before you actually removed the door:)
 

Mike O'D

Gold Level Sponsor
I used a couple of squeeze clamps to pull the bar into place and didn't find it to be too bad at all.
 
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