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2.8 clutch

JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Anyone able to find a disk and plate assembly to buy or is rebuild the only way to go? Looking for 9.5 inch 10 spline for 2.8 v6. I have the old ones to rebuild but was hoping to find one ready to assemble. Thank you in advance for any information.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Anyone able to find a disk and plate assembly to buy or is rebuild the only way to go? Looking for 9.5 inch 10 spline for 2.8 v6. I have the old ones to rebuild but was hoping to find one ready to assemble. Thank you in advance for any information.

They are available on Ebay I have several I purchased for my V6 Conversions....

Stay tuned and I will provide a Seller.....

UPDATE: Sent you a PM on the disc.. Several Pressure plates are available on Ebay
 
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Slainte

Donation Time
Just over a year ago, I bought a pressure plate meeting your specs from Team Blitz. Likely you'll find them on Ebay, as noted above. The disk I purchased from Summit.
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
We were able to buy a complete clutch package for the 2.8 from Phoenix Clutch in New
Jersey. They had the complete package and it was new.
 

JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Thank you everyone, ordered a clutch package and now back on track. Recently had the 2.8L rebuilt with Offy Manifold, new cam and will install Holley 390 carb. I am in the Detroit metro area and had a local engine builder put this together. He choose a comp cam #38-240-4 for the engine. The car has already been converted by the PO and was in great shape. However, the engine still had the motorcraft carb that just was not performing great. So finally got around to upgrading based on information from this site. You guys are an invaluable resource. Thanks again. Picture of motor as it sits ready for install once the new clutch arrives.
 

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Dan Moore

Donation Time
Hello JMSiragusa
You said you live in the Detroit area ? how close are you to Lake Orion I ask because that is where Sven Pruitt now lives
maybe you could contact him if you have Question about the v 6
Dan
 

JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Dan, I am in the Rochester Hills area, very close to Lake Orion. Do you think that Sven knows he is celebrity with the modified Sunbeam community?
 

Dan Moore

Donation Time
JM
I live across the crick in Sarnia Ont. and I am not sure I was always going to contact him but never did might be an interesting conversation and we are so close ( even thou i can,t cross the boarder covid-19 )
Dan
 

JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Clutch is in and transmission attached. A few pictures attached. One looking into the bell housing.
 

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JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
In case anyone is interested, the engine is in and should be ready to start. First time starting an engine for the first time. I have gone over things a few different times. I plan on removing the plugs, turning the engine over to get oil circulating, put the plugs back and give it a go. Any thoughts or cautionary tales or advice on the first start would be appreciated. The pictures are as it sits ready to go.
 

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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Do not let it idle. Cam manufacturers say 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Shut off and drain. Change filters and refill oil, your then good to go.

Bill
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
In case anyone is interested, the engine is in and should be ready to start. First time starting an engine for the first time. I have gone over things a few different times. I plan on removing the plugs, turning the engine over to get oil circulating, put the plugs back and give it a go. Any thoughts or cautionary tales or advice on the first start would be appreciated. The pictures are as it sits ready to go.



You will be breaking in a new cam and flat tappet lifters, so make sure the break-in oil has at least 1200 ppm zinc.

If in doubt about the right oil or break-in procedure, check with Comp Cams.
 
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JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Thank you Barry, will do. A question about valve lash. The cam spec calls for a valve lash of .010 intake /.012 exhaust. I know that normal valve lash is .014/0.16. I assume that the lash changes with the cam, so go with the .010/0.12 lash setting.
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
Thank you Barry, will do. A question about valve lash. The cam spec calls for a valve lash of .010 intake /.012 exhaust. I know that normal valve lash is .014/0.16. I assume that the lash changes with the cam, so go with the .010/0.12 lash setting.



This! Unless there is a very good reason to do otherwise, follow the cam makers recommendations.

The Comp Cams #38-240-4 almost certainly has more aggressive opening / closing ramps than the factory Ford camshaft and the tighter lash settings probably help to reduce valve train noise (as well as giving a tad more duration / lift).

IMO, your engine builder made a good choice on the cam. There are certainly "hotter" cams available, but the truth is that most street cars spend a lot more time at idle and part throttle cruise than at WOT and having decent manifold vacuum makes life a lot more pleasant.
 
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JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Barry, thank you. Probably overthinking things, just a bit anxious to do this right the first time. Appreciate the advice and feedback.
 

Fergusonic

Donation Time
In your excitement, don't forget to keep an eye on the Oil Pressure and Temp Gauges. Watch for any leaks. Keep the rpms up as Bill Blue said. And listen for any strange noises.
 

JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
Thank you Barry and Ferusonic, and everyone else on this forum. This weekend is the moment of truth. I am going to listen to all the advice. Run the engine as instructed by the cam maker and watch the oil pressure and temperature.
 

JMSiragusa

Gold Level Sponsor
An update on this project in case anyone is interested. Thanks to Dan R. for some good advice.

Well could not get the Offy Manifold to work. High Vacuum leak so we could not get the engine to idle. Tried to remove and refit the manifold in the car. Finally took the motor out and took it back to engine builder. He tried several things and finally gave up and put the original manifold and motocraft 2150 carb back on. With the original carb and manifold the engine runs well. I assume my engine builder tried everything he knew to get the motor work with the Offy manifold. I think he just gave up and got it running as well as best he could. Not sure if he did any measurements to fit the Offy manifold. So, I have the engine back with the original manifold and carb. Needless to say, this is disappointing. The internals are all good, and the new cam should provide some performance improvement, but won't have the cool looking Holley carb and Offy manifold. New plan is to put the engine back in the car and see about installing the Holley Fuel Injection on the original intake this spring.
 
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