Gaskets-Tappet,Dizzy and Oil Block

[Mark B]

Hello all-

I attempted to staunch the flow of oil coming out of my leaky tappet cover, and in doing so, I had to remove the distributor and the oil block (Series V). The question is do I use some gasket glue, (Permatex or similar) when replacing them, or just the gaskets themselves. The tappet cover gasket is cork and the same question applies. They did not appear to have any sealant previously, and may have been contributing to the oil seepage and leakage.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Mark B

 

[jumpinjan]

Well yes, put whatever you have to to stop it.
Jan

 

[Mark B]

Thanks Jan,

I should be more clear. I cleaned up everything that was there and I am down to bare prepped metal, and will be using all new gaskets. Had assumed that there was some sealer used in the past, but really see no evidence that there was any previously. So I started to question whether or not I should use the goop when putting in brand new lovely gaskets. Thought I would check with those that have done this way more than I.

Cheers,

MB

 

[RootesRacer]

Original mfgr used gasket sealer, something like permatex #1 sealer (think this is tar based). Silicone will probably work better and last longer though.
Do be sure that the side cover is straight and the areas where the bolts go through is not domed by excessive tightening (if so it is never seal right). If the plate is not straight, repair or replace it.

 

[bernd_st]

I normally use transparent silicone on both sides of the cork gasket. Works great. As Racer put it make sure there are no domed screw holes in the cover. If there are some from earlier over- tightening you can hammer them out using a proper dolly on the inner side...

 

[Alpine 1789]

I put one of these on my car about 10 years ago and have been very happy with it. I used silicone sealant to attach the gasket to the valve cover but not to the head. That allows you to remove the cover for valve adjustments (something I should probably go do soon!) but reuse the gasket. It has not leaked in all that time, despite the cover being removed and reinstalled multiple times.

 

[puff4]

I never use silicone sealant. My reasons are:

1. If for any reason - heat expansion/contraction, vibration, etc. - the silicone gets dislodged, it is not self-healing and the join will begin to leak.

2. If any bit of the squeezed-out silicone inside gets dislodged it can end up places inside the motor that you’d rather it didn’t.

3. It’s a PITA to fully remove from parts, particularly with uneven surfaces or pores, once it’s been used.

Instead my go-to sealant is either Wellseal or Hylomar. Both are expensive, but they also are self-healing, easy to remove with lacquer thinner, and in my experience are excellent sealants over the long haul.

 

[Mark B]

I appreciate the replies and input. I used go old Permatex Blue and appears to have gone well. Thought I had a gasket for the oil block, but did not so have to hold until I get that. Probably good so that the other gasket have time to cure and my impatience does not push it.

 

[jumpinjan]

What is the best gasket sealer?..."Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1194".
I have never, never, NEVER..had any leaks or problems with it.
(I threw away all my silicone sealers after using ThreeBond)
Jan

 

[puff4]

"Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1194"

Hmm... reviews on Amazon sound good, Jan. Is it at all like Wellseal? It sounds really similar.

 

[Mark B]

I am in the process of building up and engine and will get some Three Bond. A leak free Alpine engine would be a good thing and not something I have had often in the past.

Mark B

 

[jumpinjan]

Is it at all like Wellseal?

I have have no idea what that product is.
If anything it's used mostly to seal up the engine block cases of Yamaha dirt bike engines. It seals the metal-to-metal seams in the engine block/case. But of course, it works great on gasket materials too.
By the way, if you experienced oil seepage from the valve cover gasket, it's probably not the gasket's fault. I lapped the bottom surface of the aluminum valve cover and the oil leakage stopped. And reused the old paper gasket and no leaks again.
Jan

 

[Mark B]

For me, the valve cover is a non-leaker. I have the front timing cover weeping a bit, and the tappet cover I just sealed. The engine in the car is very tired and has decent blowby, which was really getting to be a mess. The real solution to a clean non-leaking engine is in the rebuild on the stand and that's just taking time.

Mark B