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Temp Sender & Gauge

woodybap

Silver Level Sponsor
Hi There:
My 'mongrel' of an Alpine is mostly SI [body] and SV [engine].
Not getting a correct reading on the temp gauge [all the way to the left or just budging a smidge].
Have grounded the sender and the needle jumps to the right so I am thinking 'bad sender'.
Checked hartmandm's fabulous data lists but did not see a gauge that looks like mine. Photos attached.
I plan to replace the sender but notice that there are 2 different versions for SI and SV.
Do any members have any wisdom for me about what gauge I have and which sender would work better?
 

Attachments

  • Temp Gauge - Rear .jpg
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  • Temp Gauge - Front.jpg
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Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
There are also two listed for the Tiger in the parts list. Possibly it's because one is in Celsius and The other in Fahrenheit.
This gets more complicated as I'm not quite sure how an Alpine one goes together but some are pipe thread and some are regular old thread. I was going to see what S.S. offered today because I'd like to get one with the correct push on spade terminal not like all the Mustang ones that they're trying to sell me.
 

phyrman

SAOCA Secretary
Diamond Level Sponsor
Are you also using the voltage stabilizer? and everything properly grounded?
Gauges are just ohm meters that are calibrated to the sending units and all connections and wires need to be in good order
Could also be a faulty gauge/sending unit.
Price of Darkness strikes again!!
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
I haven't seen that faceplate before, but based on the back of the gauge, it looks like you have an earlier type temperature gauge with the resistor bridge arrangement (same gauge style as the Alpine series 1 & 2 gauges). The early series gauges use a different temperature sender than the series 3 to 5 gauges. The sender folks are selling today does not produce quite the same resistance values. But it is still usable once you correlate how normal operating temperature at the sender housing translates to the gauge reading.

No voltage stabilizer is needed with the earlier gauges.

I'll send you a draft version of a document Tom Hayden and I have been working on with more info about how these gauges work and trouble shooting steps.

Mike
 

woodybap

Silver Level Sponsor
I haven't seen that faceplate before, but based on the back of the gauge, it looks like you have an earlier type temperature gauge with the resistor bridge arrangement (same gauge style as the Alpine series 1 & 2 gauges). The early series gauges use a different temperature sender than the series 3 to 5 gauges. The sender folks are selling today does not produce quite the same resistance values. But it is still usable once you correlate how normal operating temperature at the sender housing translates to the gauge reading.

No voltage stabilizer is needed with the earlier gauges.

I'll send you a draft version of a document Tom Hayden and I have been working on with more info about how these gauges work and trouble shooting steps.

Mike
Great - According to Classic's website, they still have senders for S1-2 so I will grab one of those.
 

woodybap

Silver Level Sponsor
I haven't seen that faceplate before, but based on the back of the gauge, it looks like you have an earlier type temperature gauge with the resistor bridge arrangement (same gauge style as the Alpine series 1 & 2 gauges). The early series gauges use a different temperature sender than the series 3 to 5 gauges. The sender folks are selling today does not produce quite the same resistance values. But it is still usable once you correlate how normal operating temperature at the sender housing translates to the gauge reading.

No voltage stabilizer is needed with the earlier gauges.

I'll send you a draft version of a document Tom Hayden and I have been working on with more info about how these gauges work and trouble shooting steps.

Mike
Photo of fuel gauge
 

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Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Woody, I'll bet that if you look way to the left on the dial, behind the "dial shield" you will see a model number beginning with TC followed by 4 numbers and maybe a / and more numbers, something like TC 4300/01. And as Mike says the sensors available today for these early type gauges are slightly different than original, but with a dial face like you have with just Cold - Normal- and Hot, I think they will work perfectly.

Tom
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Look for a model number on the Fuel gauge as well. Should begin with FG. BTW, does your cooling system look like an SI system with a tank up front or is it like an SV, with an SV thermostat housing. Is it likely that the sender is the original type sender used on an SV, since the engine is an SV?

Tom
 

woodybap

Silver Level Sponsor
Look for a model number on the Fuel gauge as well. Should begin with FG. BTW, does your cooling system look like an SI system with a tank up front or is it like an SV, with an SV thermostat housing. Is it likely that the sender is the original type sender used on an SV, since the engine is an SV?

Tom
Bingo!! Temp = TC4304/05 Fuel = FG2331/03
 

woodybap

Silver Level Sponsor
OK, put in new S1 type sender but no glory. At startup the gauge is all the way to the left. When the engine is completely warmed up the needle has only moved about 2 needle widths to the right. I bypassed the wire from the sender to the gauge but got the same result. Wiring issue? There are 4 wires coming to the gauge. The green sender wire to a single pole terminal on the steering wheel side, two other green wires that go to a double pole terminal on the passenger side and a black ground wire that connects to the dash bracket. It is a driver on the left [US] configuration. Any suggestions on what to try next? Can you help tell me which wires go where and what they do? Thanks.
 

woodybap

Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks all but do not need a reply right now. Found the great info I had previously been sent and that helped a lot. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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