• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Over Heating

howehap

howehap

Platinum Level Sponsor
Looking for things to check on stock Alpine series V that seems to run hot. Rebuilt engine, radiator cleaned (I don't know what was actually done to the engine and cooling system, I need to find out from the owner). Guessing around 100 miles on rebuild, just short runs of less than 10 miles.
  • 80 F ambient, coolant temp goes to around 210 F before I shut it down.
  • Same temperature rise at idle and on road at around 40 mph
  • Measured with thermometer in radiator and infrared gun below temp sending unit, and instrument gage, all show around 205-210 F.
  • 160 F thermostat, taken out and checked in boiling water, it's ok
  • good flow in radiator
  • coolant 50/50
  • when hot, it will diesel when I shut it off.
  • Ignition timing 8 degrees BTDC (@ 800-900 rpm). Centrifugal and vacuum advance seem to be working ok when checked with timing light.
  • Manifold vacuum seems low, 900 rpm = 15 to 16 inches: 2000rpm = 20 inches
  • don't see bubbles in radiator coolant
 
howehap

howehap

Platinum Level Sponsor
Appears to be correct fan blade, I will check against my other Alpines, belt tight. Haven't trying bumping timing yet.
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
If the infrared is showing gauge is correct and radiator and thermostat are working i would have thought timing...

What about mixtures? What do the plugs look like.. are they running lean?
 
howehap

howehap

Platinum Level Sponsor
Here are the plugs from the left 4, 3, 2, 1
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6698.jpg
    IMG_6698.jpg
    567.6 KB · Views: 47
husky drvr

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
More questions. Are you still running the side draft carbs? Is your PCV system still hooked up and functioning correctly? What oil are you using?
When the engine is running hot, is the oil cooler also very warm?
 
B

beamdream

Gold Level Sponsor
howehap said:
Looking for things to check on stock Alpine series V that seems to run hot. Rebuilt engine, radiator cleaned (I don't know what was actually done to the engine and cooling system, I need to find out from the owner). Guessing around 100 miles on rebuild, just short runs of less than 10 miles.
  • 80 F ambient, coolant temp goes to around 210 F before I shut it down.
  • Same temperature rise at idle and on road at around 40 mph
  • Measured with thermometer in radiator and infrared gun below temp sending unit, and instrument gage, all show around 205-210 F.
  • 160 F thermostat, taken out and checked in boiling water, it's ok
  • good flow in radiator
  • coolant 50/50
  • when hot, it will diesel when I shut it off.
  • Ignition timing 8 degrees BTDC (@ 800-900 rpm). Centrifugal and vacuum advance seem to be working ok when checked with timing light.
  • Manifold vacuum seems low, 900 rpm = 15 to 16 inches: 2000rpm = 20 inches
  • don't see bubbles in radiator coolant
Click to expand...

Certainly would expect better than 15" vac at idle, assume you have a standard cam? Where are you measuring the vacuum from?

Plugs look good so mixture is probably right; perhaps moving the dizzy a little to see if you can get a vac reading of 18 then go for a drive, listen out for pinging and you'll probably have to reset idle rpm.

Do you have a rubberised crank pulley? it's possible the timing marks are out.
 
howehap

howehap

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, I have the rubberised crank pulley. I was wondering if that might have de-bonded. I had eye-balled top dead center by removing spark plug #1 and getting piston at top of cylinder, and TDC mark on pulley was lined up. I agree there is room for error in eye-balling this. I will try advancing the timing and going for a ride. I will check vac with timing advanced. Vac measured by using vac hose from brake booster. I believe stock cam. Everything looks stock on car for series V.
 
Fergusonic

Fergusonic

Donation Time
Can you see if there is coolant flow if you remove the cap? Heater hoses hot? Rad Hose collapse? Water pump no bueno?
 
howehap

howehap

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, I can see good flow of coolant in radiator as soon as thermostat opens, no collapsed hoses. On the road at steady 40 mph, it takes about 5 to 7 miles for the coolant temperature to get to around 2oo F or higher.
 
R

Rick Young

Platinum Level Sponsor
Can you pressure test your coolant system? After a rebuild my TR ran a little hot it had a very small leak I didn't see until I pressure tested the system.
It stopped after the head was retorqued.
Rick
 
Gordon Holsinger

Gordon Holsinger

Diamond Level Sponsor
Rick Young said:
Can you pressure test your coolant system? After a rebuild my TR ran a little hot it had a very small leak I didn't see until I pressure tested the system.
It stopped after the head was retorqued.
Rick
Click to expand...
Check that your timing is correct on the crank when the engine was rebuilt the timing chain may be advanced or retarded one tooth. Go find or make a positive stop tool. I made a positive tool out of an old plug by drilling out the porcelan and a dowel. Pull the plugs turn the motor by hand in one direction and mark the crank pulley. Turn the crank in the opposite direction and mark the crank. Between the two marks is TDC. A tdc tool is 10-15 dollars from NAPA.
 
howehap

howehap

Platinum Level Sponsor
Once I determine /verify TDC, is there a easy way to determine if the timing chain is advanced or retarded one tooth? Do I have to start measuring start of valve lift position, or is there some easy way.....
 
Tim R

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
The advice above is sound, the marks can move and the chain could be a notch out but before I did anything about any of that I would get a timing light and set the timing to 34° at 3,000rpm. (vacuum pipe disconnected) with the marks on the timing wheel you currently have.

Then go for a drive and see if you still have the problem. It sounds to me like timing and being at 8° BTDC at static sounds a bit retarded for modern fuel. We normally set static at 11° and adjust on the timing lights once it is running. 3,000 rpm is a typical driving rpm and you want to be correctly advanced then when you are accelerating, not when at tick over.
Good luck,

Tim R
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
howehap said:
Once I determine /verify TDC, is there a easy way to determine if the timing chain is advanced or retarded one tooth? Do I have to start measuring start of valve lift position, or is there some easy way.....
Click to expand...

Stock sunbeam cams are symetrical (more or less) on the intake and exhaust overlap, which means that you should expect (and be able to measure with a drop gauge) the intake valves opening height relative to the exhaust valves closing height at the point of TDC. Determining where TDC is relative to the crank degree 0 degree indicator is another matter.
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
You say no collapsed hoses. Are the two radiator hoses new? Note that a hose can collapse inside without showing outside. Also are the heater hoses and heater core hot if you open the heater valve?
 
Acollin

Acollin

Donation Time
If above suggestions did not work, try:

Try a different radiator cap. I had a similar problem in an mgb. It was really strange how just a few pounds pressure made a world of difference. Literally from boiling over to cool as a cucumber.

Good luck
Andrew
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top