• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Battery size

phyrman

SAOCA Secretary
Diamond Level Sponsor
my project V6 car came with 2 Miata sized batteries. The PO installed the two because he wasn't getting enough amperage to the starter to turn over the engine. The Miata battery is about 2/3 the size of a "normal" sized car battery. I think if you are running heavier primary cable the smaller battery may work...... something that I am going to try with the next project.
I also recommend a rubber or plastic cover to go over what ever battery you opt for... they do bounce if not secured!!
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Jerry I think you understood that idea was "tongue in cheek" . Just trying to emphasize that there is NO way to tell which cable is not connected. I agree that consistency is useful, and that's probably why the NHRA rules are there. so that anyone working on or rescuing a car will know exactly what's what. I also would almost surely put my switch on the positive side for those reasons. But I want our members to understand that there is no physics or electrical reasons - at least none that I know of.

I could probably tell the difference with a high frequency network analyzer and some other EE black magic, but mere mortals? Probably not.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
my project V6 car came with 2 Miata sized batteries. The PO installed the two because he wasn't getting enough amperage to the starter to turn over the engine. The Miata battery is about 2/3 the size of a "normal" sized car battery. I think if you are running heavier primary cable the smaller battery may work...... something that I am going to try with the next project.
I also recommend a rubber or plastic cover to go over what ever battery you opt for... they do bounce if not secured!!
Yes agreed, I got a 1/4 inch rubber mat on the metal door panel that covers the battery, if it bounces up it hits that.
 

65beam

Donation Time
Now you know why Rootes only used two fuses that will blow real quick if something shorts. The originals were 17.5 amp fuses.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Now you know why Rootes only used two fuses that will blow real quick if something shorts. The originals were 17.5 amp fuses.
The electrical system was not very well designed in all British cars of the era. Lots of room for improvement and even more opportunities for fires.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
I could probably tell the difference with a high frequency network analyzer and some other EE black magic, but mere mortals? Probably not.
Jerry, There ya go! Shoulda' thought of that. I was close when I said smell. Had I thought "sniff" instead of "smell", I might have thought of that. It's been about 15 years since I used a network analyzer. Not quite sure what it would show, but surely a comparison to another Alpine could tell. :)

Tom
 

65beam

Donation Time
The electrical system was not very well designed in all British cars of the era. Lots of room for improvement and even more opportunities for fires.
I got this car the day I graduated from high school in 1967. I have never been without a British car since, have had several British marques and have never had an electrical fire even though many folks told me I would. Guess I've been lucky.110_0218.JPG
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I got this car the day I graduated from high school in 1967. I have never been without a British car since, have had several British marques and have never had an electrical fire even though many folks told me I would. Guess I've been lucky.View attachment 19291
I agree. I’ve had 47+ LBCs over the years (I’ve actually lost count) and not one had a modern replacement harness - never had a fire or even a near-miss in those 46 years. I have, however, always used real Lucas fuses.
 

65beam

Donation Time
I agree. I’ve had 47+ LBCs over the years (I’ve actually lost count) and not one had a modern replacement harness - never had a fire or even a near-miss in those 46 years. I have, however, always used real Lucas fuses.
I would say that you and I may be among the few that still have original Lucas fuses. I bought a couple boxes at the Carlisle Import several years ago.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
I got this car the day I graduated from high school in 1967. I have never been without a British car since, have had several British marques and have never had an electrical fire even though many folks told me I would. Guess I've been lucky.View attachment 19291
Looks like a Hillman Minx? My dad had one when I was a kid. My parents ran a small car dealership for Rootes products from the late 1950's till Chrysler stopped importing Sunbeams in the 1967-69 era. After that they imported Peugeots. On your electrical fires, you have been lucky.
 

Paul354

Diamond Level Sponsor
I couldn't find a photo of a battery installed in a battery box on the forum although I can't believe none were ever posted. Is the standard placement of the terminal posts toward the rear of the vehicle with the positive terminal toward the driver side (LHD) of the vehicle?

I believe this was the standard set up with the terminals to the rear based on the rubber bumpers on the battery door. But with the positive terminal to the outside the negative to the inside towards the driver side (LHD) this would be the shortest distance to ground
The rubber mat on the underside of the door is a better option
 
Last edited:

rixter

Gold Level Sponsor
To add to the mix, I present the below photos. The battery box is taller toward the front of the vehicle due to the slope of the rear "seat".. thus permitting more clearance for terminal posts to be there. Add to this, the battery box lid has a raised area where the posts would be when placed in the posts forward position. My series 3 (POS ground), does not have a raised area on the lid (last photo). As far as I am aware, the same battery is specified for all series. That would mean for the series 5 (NEG ground), the wire would have to run across to the opposite side to connect (crossing the battery), if the posts are in the same relative position. Perhaps the raised area to add clearance.

Rick

P1150603r.jpg P1150611r.jpg P1150612r.jpg P1150647r.jpg
 
Last edited:

doggone03

Gold Level Sponsor
What's the proper size and best battery for my Series V Alpine? The Interstate Battery site shows two different batteries.

Thanks Jack
I finally got around to getting my Series IV back on the road. I took my old Group 56 battery to the local auto part store and they did not carry the battery size. Found one at Walmart for around $100. Works great.
 

Paul354

Diamond Level Sponsor
After looking closer, I do agree the battery post should be to the front of the battery box.
 
Top