Brake booster

[Jimjordan2]

Im not too familiar with these, Im running an after market booster. Can you tell me what I have here? I see no numbers or name on it, but haven't gotten past the dirt and grime. Is it worth messing with?

 

[Warren]

Hope it turns out to be something good.
I was given a similar chunk of coal, it turned out to be off of a 1957 Chrysler hemi...
It was a manifold and two Carter carburetors..

 

[puff4]

Looks to me like a Girling booster off a SV.

 

[Warren]

It does but the filter and the end cap look different. Randy W.
0neoffive probably knows.

 

[hartmandm]

Agree with Kevin. You should have "5/8" and "GIRLING" letters here:




The filter is missing.

Mike

 

[hartmandm]

A couple more photos.

 

[Jimjordan2]

OK, thanks. Got 5/8 and Girling under the dirt and crud. Now the filter goes over that little rubber "washer" or rubber valve flap? Guess I'll open this up and see what I have.

 

[Gary T]

Jimjordan2, you can try to take the unit apart, but be aware of potential problem inside the aluminum cylinder which is corrosion. If it is coated with aluminum powder, it may be nearly impossible to remove the internal piston without damage. In addition the large steel chamber that includes the vacuum piston may be corroded as well and may or may not be usable for rebuild. If you do have good parts, then be sure you get the WSM to show you how to assemble the unit properly.

There is a simple to make special tool you need to use in order to get the snap ring out of the aluminum cylinder as well as used to replace any new parts. There also is specific instructions to assemble the steel chamber with the repaired vacuum piston and proper alignment of the shaft from the large piston to inside the aluminum cylinder. It can be done, but all parts need to be evaluated before you order a repair kit.

 

[Jimjordan2]

Thanks , just getting it apart now, Whooeee, what the hey??? Canister must have had a pint of some kind of oil in it. Didnt smell like brake fluid. Almost like a light wt motor oil. And that looks almost like caviar.
OK, The canister has, not corrosion, but almost like dried up oil on not quite 1/2 way around where the piston was sitting. Looks like maybe it sat on a shelf for a long long time, and the oil kept most of it nice and pretty, but when I removed the dried up stuff, it looks like it "ate" it's way through a coating that was factory. Appears to be coating, not sure. So there's a little bit of a low spot where the piston (is it leather?) gasket sat. But I mean a little 1500 paper may even everything out. Or is it just toast?

 

[Gary T]

You probably will not be able to sand out a low spot, since after you sand it the low spot would lower. The leather piston has to seal against a surface that is even distance from the shaft and it must be round. I was able to repair the canister using a very small amount of JB Weld and hand sanding slightly with fine sand paper followed by using a engine cylinder hone to make it round again with no low spots. It is really not the recommended repair, but it did work.

With all the oil inside, you may have preserved the aluminum cylinder so you may be able to remove the old piston inside. Again that piston has a snap ring way down inside and you must use the tool I mentioned to remove the snap ring. Be sure to get directions from Work Shop Manual (WSM)

 

[Ashfried]

Hey Jim,
Have you seen the youtube video on rebuild. It is very helpful. I used it when I rebuilt mine.

 

[Gary T]

After looking at this video of servo rebuild and my experience you can do a good job without the WSM, except for having it available.

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Im not too familiar with these, Im running an after market booster. Can you tell me what I have here? I see no numbers or name on it, but haven't gotten past the dirt and grime. Is it worth messing with?

Jim it is a hurling servo they were 2 types 7” and I think 5” don’t toss it they are getting scarce some parts may be salvageable.