• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

The Journey Begins - Series I V6 Restomod

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
I think I recall this discussion from long ago about clock power and a battery cutoff switch and put the fuse holder in the arm rest. I think someone suggested mounting a small wire with a very small amperage inline fuse in parallel to the cut off switch. This would continue supplying power to radios and clocks with the battery switched off. The small amperage fuse would blow very quickly if a situation drawing more than residual power requirements occurred. I don't recall any real feedback or discussion on the suggestion. I can envision a couple of possible issues but not sure they are major problems. Number one would be operator error and then the resistance in the disconnect causing too much current to try to flow through the bypass when starting.
That is what I did, although I don't remember who originally recommended it. I wired a 1 amp fuse across the cut-off switch. It worked perfectly and blew immediately if I turned the key with the switch off, but kept the clock and the car radio memory working even though the battery was otherwise cut-off. The only problem was that I would frequently forget and turn the key, blowing the fuse. I bought about 100 of them on eBay for less $10, so that wasn't an issue, but it was a pain in the butt to be constantly replacing them. Mike Enk, the Jaguar Clock Guy, later sent me a thermal fuse (I am sure one of the EE's on the group will know what I am talking about because I sure don't) that I wired across the cut-off terminals. That works perfectly and keeps me from having to constantly replace the fuse. That said, turning the key without throwing the cut-off switch - something I do regularly at my advance age and minimal memory - wipes the radio memory, which is still a pain. If I had it to do all over, I would probably just run a dedicated fused line to the clock and radio memory circuit and not worry about it from there.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Thanks for the clarification. I knew one of you would come through! As for "a lot of trouble", it is just two ring terminals soldered (maybe crimped) to the fuse and then attached to the cut-off switch lugs. All in all, 5 minutes work. A lot less if done at the time the switch is installed. But, as you say, to each his own.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Bill, I sure like the finish you put on them! Crinkley Black:)

I still have some of the valve covers from the last group buy we made....

Dan - What have you got here? My car has the generic original Ford V6 valve covers and I was thinking of dressing this up a little at some point.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Jerry, They are from John Redmond JRCAST.com.

I have them as spares for my Conversion projects.

I have a total of $269 invested. If interested that is the selling price plus shipping from me Greenwood, SC 29649 to you.

Best I recall in some shipments from me to NY was about $16. and to Calif was maybe $30-35....

I'll have to pull them out to see exactly what I have left.
 

Attachments

  • 2.8 V6 Valve Covers by JRCast  Sunbeam V6 Black        20190321_174603.jpg
    2.8 V6 Valve Covers by JRCast Sunbeam V6 Black 20190321_174603.jpg
    294.1 KB · Views: 89
  • Rick's V6 with new 390 Carb and JRCast Custom Valve Covers        20181207_163713.jpg
    Rick's V6 with new 390 Carb and JRCast Custom Valve Covers 20181207_163713.jpg
    240.7 KB · Views: 94
  • 2.8 V6 Valve Covers by JRCast  FORD V6 Red       20190321_173519.jpg
    2.8 V6 Valve Covers by JRCast FORD V6 Red 20190321_173519.jpg
    227.3 KB · Views: 89
  • 2.8 V6 Valve Covers by JRCast  Cologne V6 Black       20190321_173929.jpg
    2.8 V6 Valve Covers by JRCast Cologne V6 Black 20190321_173929.jpg
    233.8 KB · Views: 88

loose_electron

Donation Time
Jerry, They are from John Redmond JRCAST.com.

I have them as spares for my Conversion projects.

I have a total of $269 invested. If interested that is the selling price plus shipping from me Greenwood, SC 29649 to you.

Best I recall in some shipments from me to NY was about $16. and to Calif was maybe $30-35....

I'll have to pull them out to see exactly what I have left.

Dan - Very Interested! The black with the "Ford V6" would be my first pick. Let me know what you got and we should be able to do a deal.
 

weaselkeeper

Silver Level Sponsor
K. I'm going to quit complaining after seeing your pics Had replace all horizontal flooring from firewall to trunck latch, but little other damage to repair. No surprise from an Oregon car. Am currently making patches to replace/fill the leaded seams.. lead was failing
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
It's been a while since I posted....metal work has been on a bit of a stall as my body/paint guy has been recovering from appendicitis. Meanwhile. progress continues slowly but surely on the other aspects of the build. The chrome on the car was in pretty rough shape...I'll go the repro route as much as possible but there are a number of items that simply aren't available. Like on many SI cars, my A-pillar supports were in really bad shape...not just pitted but also cracked and split. I think they came out very nice. Here are a few pictures of the total lot as well as some before/after comparisons.
Pin.jpgA pillar.jpgBracket.jpgIMG_1888.jpg
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
While the body work is going on we also are making progress on the the suspension and drive train. Fresh powder coated and turned front rotors and rear drums, upper control arms, and restored leaf springs. Lower arms, steering components, and rear end are all in progress.
IMG_1894.jpg IMG_1895.jpg IMG_1897.jpg
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
I used Brightworks in Piqua, Ohio. They are very pricey but also very experienced with pot metal repair/restoration. Just these few parts cost more than I paid for the car!...I’ve used them a couple times before with my Mustangs and Shelby projects. For normal stuff like bumpers, etc, I have good local resources.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
A good dependable chrome shop is hard to find and keep! My local just closed up business.

Did some beautiful quality work!
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
I suggest getting a copy of ‘Hemmings Motor News‘ and check advertising for chrome shops.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
I suggest getting a copy of ‘Hemmings Motor News‘ and check advertising for chrome shops.
Thanks tor that tip Mike.... Merry Christmas to you! How's the injury recovery? Hope all is well.
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
If you’re asking about my back, it’s good. Not perfect, but it’s been 2 years. So it’s probably as good as it’s going to get.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Yes! It was the neck and back I thought where you had the box (?) fall on you. Glad you are doing good. Merry Christmas,
 
Top