Newbie with a '68 SV.

[Wayne67vert]

I am in Sanford, Florida and I just picked up a long sitting '68 that needs restored. It's almost a Fred Flintstone car. It hasn't been driven in a very long time. The motor turns by hand and the e-brake works.
It needs a complete interior, floor pans, a hood hinge panel, a cowl panel under the windshield.
The car has a set '5' wire wheels with dry rotted tires.
I'm not new to restoring cars. I did a nut and bolt restoration of a 1938 Chevy truck in 2011.
I look forward to asking alot of questions as I try to put it back on the road.

 

[DanR]

Welc ome to the "Best: Forum for the Sunbeam in the whole wide world

Ask questions and you will get answers! We love to see PIC's of the Sunbeams too! And we don't mind if they are of an Alpine in good condition or in need of lots of repairs....

Our motto is: Keep'em on the Road!

 

[Wayne67vert]

Here it is in all it's glory!

 

[65sunbeam]

The headlight rims are probably worth more than you paid for the car.... rare MKII headlight rims
Welcome- and thanks for becoming a Silver level sponsor!

 

[ALC 68A]

The un-peaked headlamp rims from the Mk II Sunbeam Tiger were fitted to approximately the last 1,200 cars starting at (from memory) B395017000. If your VIN is after that, then you have a very late production car.

Steve

 

[Wayne67vert]

It's a late production. I didn't give much.
I have a spare 1600 engine, 2 transmissions, 4 starters, and a few odds and ends that came with it.

 

[Warren]

The market for those headlight rings was 400 . I have bought them and sold them at that price .
A local in Calif has a nice donor car see CAT forum in parts for sale or PM me for his number . The car would be save able for the right person. The non rolling car is priced to move despite no diff or front end.

 

[Wayne67vert]

Thanks Warren. I'm in Florida, the cost to transport a body would make the price a non deal. Now if someone would cut off a couple of panels, then I could ship from CA.
I need the hood hinge panel and the under windshield cowl panel.

 

[CRBASIN]

Welcome.

Looks like you have a very nice project. I didn't see that anyone has mentioned the two main US suppliers, Classic Sunbeam and Sunbeam Specialties. Both are very helpful.

I returned my Sunbeam to a runner, and have, for now at least, will keep it as a "survivor." You can read about my efforts on my blog here. I hope to begin adding new posts soon--we moved a year ago and the new house has taken much of my time.

John

 

[Mike O'D]

Cool truck too!

Mike

 

[Wayne67vert]

Here is what I have to start with:

 

[Wayne67vert]

A few more:

 

[Wayne67vert]

more still:

 

[Wayne67vert]

Still more:

 

[Wayne67vert]

The shots keep coming:

 

[Wayne67vert]

I was able to get it started . It ran for about 3 seconds. I plan to make it drive-able and then start the rust repairs. I have found a body shell that will help with the hinge panel and scuttle.

I need to order all the rubber parts for the motor and the brake lines. I'm going to replace the brake system hydraulic parts, and the clutch hydraulics.

I will flush the fuel system and change all fluids.

What suppliers are recommended for all these parts?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Wayne

 

[Alpine Addict]

Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam

 

[alpine_64]

You would be better to start your bodywork first, the mechanical stuff will take 10% of the time the body will and you can do it as you work on the body.

The car looks to have been left outside roof down with the rust on the parcel shelf and floors.

You will need new floors, there are several suppliers but fit and accuracy vary a lot.

From what i read Chris Lunn of grand bend in canada makes nice floors.

There is a recent thread here that might be of help to you:

http://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/the-journey-begins-series-i-v6-restomod.27473/

Good luck bringing it back to life

 

[sunalp]

Hi Wayne,

I've been down this road before. In fact I have a car in the shop now that the owner thought
would be a" quick paint and get it running so I can drive it soon" car, which sadly it was not.
Even though the car looked solid, many bodged repairs hid the type of rust that you see on your
car. I don't want to discourage you, but unless you are skilled in metal work, welding and
fabrication, that car is a lot to handle. The Alpine is much more complex than other British
cars of the era and like other complex cars, they rust from the inside out. What you see on the outside
is just the tip of the iceberg.

Since you didn't give a lot for the car, perhaps you could find a better body and use the parts from this
to complete the car. That way , at least, part of this car will live on.

Just food for thought.
Cheers!
Steve

 

[Wayne67vert]

Thanks for the replies.
I too have been down this road before.
I'm retired, 70 yrs old and have 6 Saturdays a week to play with something. This little Alpine is what I have chosen for now.
I'm trying to get myself familiar with the intricacies of this sports car.
Wayne

Here is the before of my 1938 Chevy Truck:

today: I did all the work myself..