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Door Cards

Hodee

Donation Time
When installing new door cards, I'm wondering if the coil springs for the window crank and lock release go behind the cards or on the front"interior" side of the door. also, any tricks or secrets would be helpful. I have already installed new sound proof matting and lubed the window mechanism. Thanks
 

65beam

Donation Time
Install the door panels, put the black plastic piece over the door or window stub, set the spring on and install the chrome ring. Push until the chrome ring seats in the black piece and is not stuck in the plastic, install the handle and drop the pin in the hole in the handle and the stub. Let loose of the chrome piece and the spring pushes everything against the handle. If the handle pops off the pin has dropped out.That means everything goes on the outside.110_0418.JPG
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Do you have the anti-rattle spacers that go around the door handle and cranks? If not you can wind a small amount of electrical tape around the stub amd poke a hole for the pin. Just enough to give a snug fit for the socket cranks as they locate.
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
I installed some neoprene padding prior to covering with vinyl. For the actual interior door handles, I found that a couple of ~ 1/4" high spacers between the handle and the interior door metal prevented 'pincushioning' of the padding, while still providing a solid handle mounting. (Spacers go thru door panel, without pinching it.) Don't know if that's original setup or not...

Also found out I have long-stem GT-dimension window crank on left side, and non-GT on the right. (They stick out half and inch more.) Before I cut off that extra length on window and opening lever stem, and re-drill, I suppose I should find out if those are super rare or not. Probably not...
 

65beam

Donation Time
Do you have the anti-rattle spacers that go around the door handle and cranks? If not you can wind a small amount of electrical tape around the stub amd poke a hole for the pin. Just enough to give a snug fit for the socket cranks as they locate.
Michael, I've found many U.S. spec cars had a square rubber pad inserted into the handle. I used them on these handles. No movement.
 
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65beam

Donation Time
I installed some neoprene padding prior to covering with vinyl. For the actual interior door handles, I found that a couple of ~ 1/4" high spacers between the handle and the interior door metal prevented 'pincushioning' of the padding, while still providing a solid handle mounting. (Spacers go thru door panel, without pinching it.) Don't know if that's original setup or not...

Ken,
Original door panels had a round dense foam pad glued to the back of the door panel. I'll try to remember to post some photos of the pads. These pads are behind the Harrington panels in the photo.
 

65beam

Donation Time
An assortment of the various spacers I've taken off of original door panels before scrapping the boards. These were glued to the back of the panels.110_0550.JPG
 

Hodee

Donation Time
Those remnants were on the back of my old door cards as well. I made full circle dense foam doughnuts for the lock and window crank. I also glued thick rubber washers at the location of the door handle bolts. These additions helped keep the door card flat with no indentions or vinyl wrinkles.
 
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