Ford 2.3 installation

[Charles Johns]

I am finally installing the 2.3 with A4LD. I'll attach the tranny after installed because the opening is small. Unless someone else has managed to do both at once, but the transmission is a little long. The engine looks fine with little or no top ring-grove, so it will be a stock bore with new rings, cam, lifters, rockers (followers), all bearings, oil pump, 2-barrel 2150 on an Esslinger intake, header but maybe a Ranger exhaust manifold, hotter ignition and naturally all new gaskets.

IMG_2079, IMG_2071 The Gear-Puller was used with a 1 3/8 socket to remove the cam bearings.

 

[Charles Johns]

As usual I forgot to mention, the arrows show the valves look as if they have never been cut. I'll lap them in and set the springs at proper height. Any ideas on installing the motor greatly appreciated as there is not much room.

 

[mototron]

I put a 2.3 in my 61 alpine
Had to modify my tunnel
For the 5 speed
Also fabricated headers an exhaust
Moved the radiator forward
A lot measuring ,cutting and welding

 

[Charles Johns]

mototron, I just set the motor in the engine bay with the radiator also mounted. Turned to stock steering all the way to one side, and it just fits the space available. Naturally I will need to fabricate motor mounts, but I think it will work. Now to remove everything and cut out all the old stuff. This site has been very helpful.

 

[Charles Johns]

Pictures of "fitting the motor".

 

[chimpodunker]

When you installed your 2.3, where did you find radiator hoses with the correct bends for the connections? The previous owner of mine used two different hoses with a splice in the middle. I would like to eliminate this splice. If you have hose number that would be great.

 

[Charles Johns]

I have not completed the installation but in the past I have made a hose from tubing bent to shape with rubber fittings on each end. This opens up lots of "dress up" possibilities with chrome, paint or powder coating. Exhaust tubing that is aluminized or stainless works fine. I am making a body-tilt now and have a very long way to go. I just finished building a points dizzy from a 1980 magnetic single-vacuum unit and calculating advance with auto engineering formulas. Vacuum advance helps a bunch on a driver without a computer. It is a mechanical way to keep timing "in-the-park" under all conditions. Don't laugh at points. I had a modified 289 with a single points dizzy that made 250 HP and got 25 MPG on the highway without overdrive. The 10 pound heavier big-car flywheel, 3o3 full-syncro three speed (gets in high gear quicker than a 4 speed), 2.79 gears, truck cam (makes torque at low rpm), 2-barrel Autolite 2100 carb and 29" tall rear tires helped a lot! That was in a nice 1940 Ford coupe in the 80's - 90's with AC, cruise, tilt, quad-stereo and much more. Oh, I drove it as my daily driver for 12 years then sold it for almost twice what I had invested. Try that with a new car.

 

[chimpodunker]

Thanks Charles. I've had a number of 289s with both single and dual point distributors and Pertronix conversions. I had very few problems with either. Good luck with your build.