seat rebuilds - pictures

[gary1725]

Hi Folks,

I am recovering my seats (SV) and would love some pictures of the seats without covers - particularly the cardboard pieces that cover the inside and the lower section of the back side of the seat!

I picked up some card used for picture framing but have no template for how it should be cut or where it spans with regard the frame as my seats had previously been recovered without the card.

When I have tried to put the card in place the card "kinda creases unevenly" so when the cover is pulled over it does not look neat, I take this to mean that either I am not routing the card correctly or there is a trick to bending the card as the seat back changes direction.

Thanks
Gary

 

[Jimjordan2]

If you dampen the board, it will be more flexible and it will bend easier without creasing. I had a piece of concrete tubing (the kind you pour concrete in for making pillars. I think it was about 12 in? maybe a bit smaller.
Got my board pretty damp and just rolled the ends around the tube and let them dry. You only need to roll the sides, as the back will form just fine. Once dry it should be stiff again and you can rivet it in place. Just my way of doing it.
This also works when you want to take an original door panel that's all warped etc. wet it down, lay if flat between sheets of plywood and let dry. Of course a couple of concrete blocks for weight helps also.
Cheers.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Seat cardboards seem to be something that is really missing in the market. I made my own, using art board and a pattern I made from ratty, moldy originals I pulled out of a seat, but don't think I got it quite right. There is an excellent article on the TE/AE website on seat restoration (http://teae.org/how-to-restore-your-seats/). This article mentions the cardboard being available from Martha Wheat of Pro Prep Interiors. I don't know how old that Tech Tip is, but am pretty sure Martha is still in business, so it might be worth trying to reach her.

 

[spudman5]

I posted pictures from when I rebuilt my seat at: http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/spudman5/library/Sunbeam Alpine SV/Upholstrey (Yes, I know upholstery is mis-spelled. I've tried but haven't been successful in changing the name).

I thought I had more pictures, but I always think I took more than I did. Maybe I should wear a Gopro camera when I work on my car stuff.

I have a few pictures of attaching cardboard to the back of the seat frame. I also have a few pictures of the old cardboard, for both the front and the back of the frame. The black carboard is for the back of the seat and the red cardboard is for the front of the seat.
I installed foam rubber between the front and back pieces of cardboard to provide some cushion and to prevent the seat back from collapsing in.

The cardboard I used was about 1/16" thick gray pressed chipboard cardboard. I picked it up at a Michael's or a Hobby Lobby.

I remember a posting where someone used sheet aluminum instead of cardboard for the skin. The other think I had contemplated was using a 1/16" think sheet of plastic. I think would be more resilient than cardboard or aluminum and it should form easily.

While you have your seats apart, check all of the welds. I had a couple I had to touch up and other people have posted the same comment.

One other change I made when I rebuild my seats is I used nylon upholstery webbing stretched between the frame rather than the rubber diaphragms. I have about 3 years and 5000 miles on them so far and they are quite comfortable. I had to use a board as a lever to stretch them really tight.

The one recommendation I would make is don't try to sew and install your own seat covers unless you do that for a living or have done a lot of seats. That has been by far the toughest part of rebuilding my car and something I will definitely hire someone to do the next time.

Mike

 

[65beam]

pictures

The cardboard is available from any automotive upholstery shop.

 

[Alpine 1789]

I remember a posting where someone used sheet aluminum instead of cardboard for the skin. The other thin I had contemplated was using a 1/16" think sheet of plastic. I think would be more resilient than cardboard or aluminum and it should form easily.

I had the same idea and bought a sheet of ABS plastic from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECXHF36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It was a pain to cut and much more difficult to form than I had expected. I tried to heat it gently with a heat gun to make it take the frame's shape. Bad idea. I was able to get the right bend in it, but ended up with a large depression in one spot where I heated it too much. There were probably better ways and I am sure I could have eventually figured it out, but I was also worried that the edges would have been too sharp and could have damaged the vinyl, either during installation or use. So I switched to art board and briefly soaked it in the tub as others have done. That was pretty easy. It would have been even easier if I had a better pattern than the one I made from the rotted originals.

 

[gary1725]

As always your collective responses are invaluable!

I too had considered and looked at plastic but was worried about how well it would bend so reverted back to looking at card, the stuff I have been playing with is mounting or framing card I picked up in the framing center at Michaels.

The pictures perfectly compliment the article written by Joe that I had indeed found on the TEAE site and that has been my go to reference material - I was just looking for additional reassurance for how the card ran down the sides above the pivot points, inside or outside that fillet!

As for Marther, her name was given to me as the interior guru so I did reach out several times, left messages and emails but I assume they are incredibly busy because I did not receive a reply so gave up and sourced my interior kit elsewhere.

I had assumed the seat base would be my challenge! so far that has proven to be wrong with the seat back presenting far more of a challenge!

I would never have thought of dampening the card to help it bend with a more natural curve than the jagged creases that were bothering me so I will try that and hopefully will be able to post some successful pictures soon!

Thank you again for all your help and guidance!

Gary

 

[PROCRAFT]

Seats

Use .060 ABS plastic sheet you'll be better off for it in the long run, but as Bob said any Auto Upholstery shop will have what your looking for, the card board just doesn't cut it in the long run.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Use .060 ABS plastic sheet you'll be better off for it in the long run, but as Bob said any Auto Upholstery shop will have what your looking for, the card board just doesn't cut it in the long run.

The 1/16 ABS I used is 0.0625 inches and it didn't work for me. I probably did something wrong, so it would be good to know how you got the correct bends with it.

 

[Hillman]

Rotisserie

spudman

Don't want to hijack thread or go too far off topic, but it looks like you are using 2 engine stands to turn the car. Any issues?

 

[spudman5]

Hillman,

Yes, my rotisserie is made out of 2 Harbor Freight 1000 lbs engine stands. I haven't had any problems at all with the rotisserie.
I increased the height of the stands by cutting the vertical tube and welding in an extension so I could rotate the car 360 degrees.
and I have a tube between the two stands to prevent it from spreading apart (used a 10' Strut Channel for this).

I have had minimal weight on the chassis, having removed everything except the front and back axles and suspension before putting the chassis on the rotisserie. I put braces in the door to prevent the chassis from sagging and causing problems door alignment problems.

The picture I have on photobucket is probably an older picture. I took the car off at one point and sent it to get media blasted and primed. At that point, due to things I discovered after using the rotisserie for a while I have made modifications.

I added additional stiffening in the legs of the stands to prevent side to side and front to back motion.
I discovered the center of gravity (CG) of the chassis is not at the front and rear jack points. It is about 6" above the jack points. Initially, I bolted the rotisserie pivots directly at the jack points and found that it was very difficult to rotate the car and I needed help doing this. I added some vertical slides for the mounting point to adjust the CG and I am able to rotate the car easily by myself.
I welded a Harbor Freight (hey its close, cheap, and if you don't need great quality) boat trailer winch onto one of the engine stand pivot to aid in turning and I can use this without any issues.

The biggest issue I have is getting the chassis on and off of the rotisserie. The first time I had several of my kid's high school friends lift the car and put the rotisserie on. Even without parts on the chassis, it isn't light so there was a lot of grunting and cussing. The 2nd time I used floor jacks, jack stands, and stacked boards under each end. Going back and forth between each end to slowly lower or raise each end a little at a time.

I have seen some rotisseries that have the car attachment points on a sliding sleeve over the vertical tube. The chassis can then be attached at a normal level and then use jacks to raise the car to the desired height and lock the tubes into place. When I stared building the rotisserie I didn't think it would be that big of issue, but it is.

I have additional pictures of my rotisserie and I will try remember to post them on my photobucket page.

Mike

 

[P. Scofield]

Mike O on the forum also uses two engine stands and did it with his suspension still on the car! No issues.

 

[P. Scofield]

Gary, I have a CaT friend here in Vegas that has an extra set (1 seat) of cardboard in his garage. Just saw them yesterday. He would probably sell them at a reasonable cost plus shipping and you could use as a pattern, or just use. I believe it's only cardboard for one seat but it might be for two. PM or email me and I'll send you his email and phone number.

Hi Folks,

I am recovering my seats (SV) and would love some pictures of the seats without covers - particularly the cardboard pieces that cover the inside and the lower section of the back side of the seat!

I picked up some card used for picture framing but have no template for how it should be cut or where it spans with regard the frame as my seats had previously been recovered without the card.

When I have tried to put the card in place the card "kinda creases unevenly" so when the cover is pulled over it does not look neat, I take this to mean that either I am not routing the card correctly or there is a trick to bending the card as the seat back changes direction.

Thanks
Gary

 

[Mike O'D]

Yes, I used the 2000 lb. capacity ones though. I'm sure the 1000's would be fine as well. I designed and built an adjustable pivot point mechanism so I can easily change the balance as parts come off and go back on. I plan to re-assemble everything except the engine/trans with it on the rotisserie - it makes it so easy.

Mike

 

[DanR]

I have plans for a Rotisserie

that I made into a valuable piece of Shop Equipment.

that I built several years ago. It cost me about $500.00 for every thing.

It will hold a heavier car than an Alpine. I have had several Alpines on it with engine, transmission, front and rear suspension. Also a couple of Alpines with the 2.8 V6 conversions I do. It currently has the '94 4.0 V6 with all of the running gear.

It is sturdy enough with good casters to roll on dirt/gravel/black top/concrete and be utilized to load on a roll back for hauling my cars to various places.

Anyone wishing to may a rotisserie will surely appreciate this one. Ask by E-mail and I'll sent the plans.

 

[DanR]

Additional PIC's of the Rotisserie

I use for all my cars. It is a valuable piece of equipment.