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Increasing brake light visibility

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
There are a number of tricks that have been used to increase brake light visibility. The four I know are:

  1. Turning rear lights upside down to move the brake lights to the top.
  2. Switching to LED bulbs.
  3. Changing the brake light housing to a dual filiment bulb holder and wiring both lights to light at once.
  4. Adding a 3rd brake light.
I have done the first two on my SV and believe they definitely help. One of these days I will probably do the third, although that takes a bit more work with the later light assemblies. The jury is still out for me on the 3rd light, as I am not wild about the way the look. But I recently noticed an ad for an additional option on the TE/AE Rootes Review and decided to give it at try. Tiger owner Joe Parlanti sells "a unique brake light flasher which pulses the brake lights 4
times fast, 4 times slow then on continuously until the pedal is released." I'd bought instrument LEDs from Joe in the past and been very happy, so I decided to gamble $20 (Joe offers a 20% discount to TE/AE members) on one.

The flasher (which only works if you already have LED's installed) arrived just a few days after I'd ordered it and, true to Joe's ad, was very simple to install. It already has bullet connectors on it for the stock wiring harness and simply 'interrupts' the circuit for the lights. Joe says it "takes about 5 minutes to install and requires no tools", which is only half correct, as it does require a screwdriver to install the ground wire. :) It took me a little longer because I have an aftermarket (Pete's Performance Wiring) harness and don't use the bullet connectors. Also, Pete's harness splits the brake wire ahead of the lights (unless I did that myself; I really don't remember), so it was easiest to just install it right at the brake light switch. It is barely noticeable there, although that really doesn't matter in a non-stock car like mine. But, it would be 100% hidden in a car using the stock harness. It works exactly as described and I have to believe that the initial quick flashes will attract more attention than normal. I am not sure the 4 slow flashes are all that helpful, but this feels like a big safety improvement to me.

I have never met Joe and have no connection to his side business, but highly recommend his flasher.

http://velocesolutionsllc.com/Exterior-Lighting_c4.htm
 
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hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
I bought the same brake flasher unit from Joe and did a trial installation. It works well and is really simple to install.

Then I researched my state's motor vehicle laws and flashing brake lights during normal driving are not legal in my state.

Mike
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
I didn't even think about legality until now and just did a little investigation on my state, NY. As near as I can tell, they are allowed here. This is a very common discussion on the motorcycle forums and the general consensus seems to be that even where illegal, it is very rare to be stopped for it. Also, from what I have read, most states that have laws related to them are specific to continuously flashing ones, so the design of this one should be ok.
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
As usual, the DE laws are somewhat vague. No definition of 'flashing'. There are a bunch of exceptions listed for vehicles that can have flashing lights - police, fire, commercial vehicles (e.g. tow trucks), etc. When it comes to regular folks, you can have flashing lights for turn signals and when your vehicle is a hazard requiring 'great care' to pass. i.e. 4 way flashers.

Obviously a judge would decide legality. The fine is only $25, so not expensive if it turns out to be illegal. I doubt the flashing brake lights will pass the annual DMV inspection process, so I'd probably wire up a disable switch, which is no biggie.

I like the quick flashes. Gets the attention. The slow flashes don't seem good. I'm thinking they will distract the driver behind to wondering if the car in front put on 4 way flashers.

Mike
 
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Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
I did #3.Changing the brake light housing to a dual filament bulb holder and wiring both lights to light at once.

I also added a relay so all 4 brake lights are powered from the battery, and less load on the wiring. I did the same thing for the 4 running lights and all lights in the front, I have almost no load on the wiring for my lights.

All this made the lights really bright.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
I like the quick flashes. Gets the attention. The slow flashes don't seem good. I'm thinking they will distract the driver behind to wondering if the car in front put on 4 way flashers.

Mike

Good point. I will want to do something similar when I get my V6 on the road. I'll check with Joe to see if it is possible to disable the slow flashes. If not, I will probably spend a little time online looking at other options, especially now that I know this is common for motorcycles and there are many other units available.

I also added a relay so all 4 brake lights are powered from the battery, and less load on the wiring. I did the same thing for the 4 running lights and all lights in the front, I have almost no load on the wiring for my lights.

All this made the lights really bright.

So, now there are six things you can to do make your lights more visible! :)
 

Gitnrusty

Donation Time
brake light visibility

To address your 4th option, a third brake light.
Somebody on this site ( or the British V8 website) added magnets to a light to stick above the trunk lid when driving, thus highly visible, but removable by passing it and attached wiring down into the trunk when at a car show.
I used a light from a 90s Chevy suburban, permanently mounted, on a project of mine.
Low profile and relatively unobtrusive until it lights up!
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
License%20Frame.jpg
 

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi all

I am delighted to see fellow members of SAOCA and TEAE utilizing the various options to increase visibility for braking! The improved brake lighting, through the various options already discussed, is certainly an improvement on the stock setup.

I first addressed this back in 2006 when TEAE Rootes Review published an article I wrote on adding a 3rd brake light. Subsequently I have added 3rd brake lights to all my Sunbeams, and like several others, have rotated the light housing so that the brake light now shines from the top of the fixture. I also use LED bulbs.

So - congratulations to all who have improved their brake lights and visibility!
 

Imperialist1960

Donation Time
Changing the brake light housing to a dual filiment

I installed a new harness in my II from Pete Amjeld.

The harness was very simple and easy to install considering my inexperience with and aversion to electrical systems. GET THIS if you want to rewire your car.

I added new dual element 1157 sockets and bulbs to the tail light housings top and bottom.

This resulted in a condition where activating the turn signal activated both rear lights instead of one side or another. I was stumped about this until I called the company who manufactures the wiring harnesses to Pete's Sunbeam specifications.

They informed me that this is a common problem, and that there is a simple $15 solution in the form of an adapter module that combines both brake and tail lights. If you have a truck with amber turn signals, red running, and red brake, and you want to go into a pair of red-only trailer lights, what does one do? There is a solution to this problem that also resolves the limits imposed by Rootes Engineering regarding our wiring systems.

See ebay and search "trailer wiring converter" or auction item 121775631039

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pole-to-4...ash=item1c5a64aabf:g:mqMAAMXQlrxRafT5&vxp=mtr

Look closely at the diagram on the module, and you'll see that the OUT has one less wire because turn and brake are combined into one conductor.

This module takes separate wires and combines them. Turn and brake functions are layered and magically work on a car with dual elements. Wiring from the top bulb socket to the bottom one is a simple splice.

This module can be installed very quickly (less than an hour, took me 15 minutes on my new harness), and yields double the brake light illumination because both top and bottom sections of the tail lights now operate for brake, turn, and running lights.

Add LED's and you must change out the flasher unit because LED's don't draw enough current to activate a standard flasher mechanism. LED bulbs were quoted to me at $25ea at the parts store. The regular bulbs for $2 a pair work so well on my car that I passed.

I also dislike the binary on/off nature of LED bulbs. Doesn't look right to me. Too abrupt a transition from on to off, and not 20th century enough for a retrogrouch like me.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Thanks, Kenyon for the great idea and solution..
I am going to add that to my to do list.....
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
One advantage of LED's is that they "turn on" much quicker than incandescent bulbs. The difference can be up to a quarter second. Doesn't sound like much, but a quarter second at 60 MPH is 22 feet and that could be the difference between a near miss and getting hit from behind.

Just my opinion, YMMV.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
originally posted by Toyanvil
I also added a relay so all 4 brake lights are powered from the battery, and less load on the wiring. I did the same thing for the 4 running lights and all lights in the front, I have almost no load on the wiring for my lights.

Obviously you feel you have gained brighter lights, and if you are happy with it that is really all that matters. But as an experienced electrical engineer I would caution others that they may find less gain and more pain with these "improvements" .

One last thought about relays- I strongly advise the use of a relay for the horns. The horns take a good bit of current and the horn contact in the steering wheel is a poor one, resulting in the horns often not getting enough power to even beep.

Tom
 

Hillman

Gold Level Sponsor
....

One last thought about relays- I strongly advise the use of a relay for the horns. The horns take a good bit of current and the horn contact in the steering wheel is a poor one, resulting in the horns often not getting enough power to even beep.

Tom

I've done this on my SII (my horns were silent due to lack of current) and prepared a 'how to' document. If anyone wants a copy, PM me.

Al
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
originally posted by Toyanvil


Obviously you feel you have gained brighter lights, and if you are happy with it that is really all that matters. But as an experienced electrical engineer I would caution others that they may find less gain and more pain with these "improvements" .

One last thought about relays- I strongly advise the use of a relay for the horns. The horns take a good bit of current and the horn contact in the steering wheel is a poor one, resulting in the horns often not getting enough power to even beep.

Tom

I am not sure what you think is a down side to adding relays to a 54 year old wiring system is? besides some work. I can tell you this, before I installed the relays my light switch would get hot to the touch and my lights
were dim. This was the main reason for the mod. I would recommend relays to anyone that has installed modern headlights into their Sunbeam, to take a lot of the load off the stock wiring. There is a reason all the new car use relays.
This is what I used, and it is easy to install.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30815
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
I am not sure what you think is a down side to adding relays to a 54 year old wiring system is? besides some work. I can tell you this, before I installed the relays my light switch would get hot to the touch and my lights
were dim. This was the main reason for the mod. I would recommend relays to anyone that has installed modern headlights into their Sunbeam, to take a lot of the load off the stock wiring. There is a reason all the new car use relays.
This is what I used, and it is easy to install.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30815

I don't think tom had an issue with relays I think it might have been to do with running the lights direct from the battery... That's how I understood it.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
I do have a little problem with adding relays and extra wires that are not needed. It adds complexity and solves a non existing problem. If the light switch was getting hot, something was amiss. Bad switch? bad headlights? Better to replace them. I see new info in Toyanvil's reply, that he installed "modern headlights". Maybe , if the newer lamps drew significantly more power than the 45 watt original lamps drew it might make sense. Yes, the wiring is 54 years old, but the loads are essentially the same as when the car was built, unless you add significant additional loads, like a big audio amp, air conditioner, power windows, heated seats, the original wiring is adequate. I DO see an advantage to new wiring with added fuses for separate circuits, as a safety measure, and if the insulation on your original wiring harness is brittle and cracking. But the copper wire in the original wiring will still carry all the current drawn by the lights in the Alpine without difficulty.

Hey, we all do "our thing" to our Alpines to suit our thinking and experience. I'd probably be upset if someone posted that they didn't think my Vizard mod and Chevy rod mod was worth doing. I have no problem with anyone "upgrading" their wiring in any way they see fit. But as I said, I just want to alert others that there may be more pain than gain by adding extra relays and wires for lights. And for most of us, the same probably holds true for the mods I did to my engine!

Tom
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
Sorry, we are on a different page, and I see your point. The OP ask in "Modified Alpine" ideas on how to increase brake light visibility and this is how I did it, I would not have posted this in stock Alpine. If you want more light, the best way to do it, is modern more powerful lights with relays or you will smoke your wiring. My car is as far from stock as it gets, I am up to 6 relays and 20 fuses to cover the things I have added :D here is my last mod :eek:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22823
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Oh! I see. Nice work. I think if I had done this much mod, including EFI, Electric Fuel pump, etc, I would have redone the wiring as you did, extra circuits, fuses, relays, and all. I think we see each others points well. But let me add one last thought. I have seen so many postings here about brake lights not working. There are several common causes: poor grounds at the lamps, poor connections at the bulbs, bad bulbs, bad pressure switch, poor connections at the fuse box, including the fuse clips themselves. One thing that has NOT been a problem is the wire itself. So, to me, adding a relay to an otherwise stock Alpine would just add more places to go bad- connections at the relay and the relay itself.

But if you rewire like you did, with better connectors, appropriate wire, etc, I can see that making your Alpine a very solid car.

Best regards,

Tom
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
I am not an engineer but my degree is in electronics and I have wired from scratch dozens of cars, mostly Street Rods with AC, cruise, multi-speaker sound systems, driving lights, etc. and rewiring a complete car is not that difficult if one does it one system at a time. Relays are far better than direct wiring with todays brighter lighting systems. Using white/silver heat paint on the light buckets under the lens and making sure the lens is clean and polished can help greatly. Understand, I worked mostly on 1948 and older cars and my Sunbeam is a 67 while my Mustang is a 65. Just my 2 cents.
 
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