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SIV diagnostic advice ??

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Bill, everyone,

I had a mobile mechanic come by to assess.

He did a lot of assessing, did not produce a cure, left without charging a fee.

He set the timing; adjusted the carbs; examined the ignition system, examined the valves setting, and did a compression test.

His view is that the carbs should be replaced and the engine rebuilt if it is to run at full power.

He felt that better carbs, good tune, maybe the engine could go further 'as is.'

He had me do a "load test" using foot on brake pedal and gas while letting out the clutch, and watching as the engine died.

The compression reading was not too good.

1--140
2--150
3--140
4--125

In addition, #3 and #4 plugs were sorta oily, possibly the rings are about shot.

Valves also are in need of adjustment, in particular those for #4 which are too tight.

So he is coming back tomorrow.

My assignment is to put the rebuilt carbs back on in the meantime.

It looks like this engine has about reached the end.

I'm still hopeful it can be coaxed into running abt 1500 miles Saturday, even at 75 or 80%.

Allan
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Allan, how is the engine running now?

Was the compression test done with the throttle wide open?

Were valve seals installed when the head was rebuilt?

The low reading on #4 could be due entirely to the tight valve adjustment.

An engine with those compression readings could continue to give good service for a long, long time.

A couple more questions:
Does the engine smoke when started after several hours of no running?
Does the engine smoke when decelerating?

Bill
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Bill,

Allan, how is the engine running now?

It runs much better.

Was the compression test done with the throttle wide open?

No, just bumping the starter with the ignition off.

Were valve seals installed when the head was rebuilt?

I don't think so. Just new valves and hardened seats. The reason to take the head to the shop was not a rebuild, but to install hardened seats.

The low reading on #4 could be due entirely to the tight valve adjustment.

An engine with those compression readings could continue to give good service for a long, long time.

A couple more questions:
Does the engine smoke when started after several hours of no running?
Does the engine smoke when decelerating?

No. If it does, it is a tiny amt I don't even notice.

It doesn't smoke, rattle or knock. It uses oil, mostly from leaks I'm stopping one at a time.

It does emit some oil spots beneath the breather tube pointing down (early series style) from the side plate covering the pushrods.

And it will emit some whitish smoke from that tube when cold.

It has good steady vacuum and does not loose coolant and has a new head gasket.


Bill

Allan
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Okay, things may not be as bad as the mechanic stated. As a general rule, you can add about 20 or so pounds to the those readings because they were done with closed throttle.

The oily plugs could be nothing more critical than bad or missing valve stem seals.

Adjust the valves, take a look to see if the stem seals are installed and drive the damn thing!
If there are no seals, might think about installing some if the oil consumption becomes too bad or the plugs foul.
Bill
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Okay, things may not be as bad as the mechanic stated. As a general rule, you can add about 20 or so pounds to the those readings because they were done with closed throttle.

The oily plugs could be nothing more critical than bad or missing valve stem seals.

Adjust the valves, take a look to see if the stem seals are installed and drive the damn thing!
If there are no seals, might think about installing some if the oil consumption becomes too bad or the plugs foul.
Bill

Bill,

I will have the rebuilt carbs back on and hooked up within an hour or so; then to adj the valves.

The mobile guy said he could come back in the morning, so I'm going to let him do the valves.

(I know ALL beamers should be good at valve adj but I'm still a novice) .

I don't know if the grease will let me see if new valve stems are installed, but I don't think so.

I'd be more than happy to drive this car - ecstatic even!!!!! :)

AS you know I plan a new engine but hope this one lives until I get the new one built.

Allan
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
Allan: I'm just guessing, but the low reading on #4 may have been caused by exhaust valve burning due to its not closing properly.
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Allan: I'm just guessing, but the low reading on #4 may have been caused by exhaust valve burning due to its not closing properly.

Nick,

Thank you.

I sure hope not but acknowledge the possibility.

Tomorrow will reveal additional information once the valves are adjusted, and then the carbs readjusted, and then a test drive is made (or only attempted....boo...)

I haven't started the engine since discovering the potential issue with cylinder #4, and plan to keep the ignition off until the adjustments are done, unless there is good reason to do othewise.

I am hopeful that #4 will improve with the #4's valves and the other cylinder's valves adjusted.

Let me thank you again for the information on the spark tool.

Acting on that information, I found one of those tools online for sale for less than 9 US dollars and ordered it on the spot.

It should arrive in a week or less, has already been shipped, and I look forward to using it.

Allan
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
I'm still hopeful it can be coaxed into running abt 1500 miles Saturday, even at 75 or 80%.

Allan: do you have a Premium AAA membership? If not, you might want to get one between now and Saturday. Premium membership allows you to be towed anywhere you want to go within something like 125 miles of where you break down. May not completely cover you on a 1500 mile trip, but it could be a life saver if something happens on the front end or back end of the trip. But be warned: they have a waiting period between application and when the tow guarantee takes effect to keep people from upgrading only when their car breaks down. I think it is just a couple of days, meaning it would be in effect by Saturday, but it might be longer.
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Jim,

I have the AAA Plus so maybe that's the same thing.

AAA has towed me twice recently, and both times they have been quick and courteous.

Allan
 

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Followup note:

First - thanks to the forum for assistance and support!

As a result, Airpine is now ready to rumble :) .

Today she passed her test drive of abt 40 miles in all kinds of traffic conditions, hills, freeway, etc during a pouring monsoon.

The timing was too retarded so I advanced it, then retarded etc until I got a good fit.
It had run with poor power, so that's the reason to advance the timing, but only a tiny bit.

I think the rear carb is sucking more air than the front, but may leave well enough alone for now.

Then again, a 1/4 turn to lean...

So it's off to the 500 mile each way event (not 1500) set for Saturday.

Thanks again !!

Allan
 

Barry Rechtorov

Donation Time
I have a Series 5 with the same problem. With all the things that you did, what do you think fixed your problem? I have replaced the Strombergs with a Weber, I have replaced the head gaskets and adjusted the valves. I have run the car with the original fuel pump and an electrical fuel pump. I have even run it with a gallon gas tank with an electric fuel pump connected to the Weber. I have tried a different cap and wires. It runs fine until I get onto the freeway and runs at 65 mph for a few seconds and then it just seems to run out of gas. It is driving me crazy. Any suggestions?
 

agmason54

Donation Time
SIV(shade tree) diagnostic advice

Barry
Since you by-passed the gas tanks and switched carbs.I am going to guess your points are floating.... The manual show a test being done on how much tension should be on the spring arm of the points. It would be simple to bend the arm and go for a spin.
AGM
 

mferris

Donation Time
Barry - I had (somewhat) simliar issues during my trials (Weber 32/36): ran ok at idle, then trying to get going at speed or under load - would die. It was a fuel supply issue with a partially blocked/restricted line.

When you tested with your gallon gas tank did you use existing lines, or run a new one to pump?
 

agmason54

Donation Time
SIV diagnostic blah blah

Barry
Assuming you have good fuel flow according to what you said about bypassing the tanks and installing new carbs I still think your points may be floating(assuming your run them). I had to look through 4 or5 manuals to find what I was talking about. Some manuals show way more info than others..Anywho I found what I was looking for in Rootes Light Car Range factory manual W.S.M145 section B page 44-45.It goes into a lot of detail about the'breaker point spring tension' which says the same thing I told you but in greater detail.It mentions the same problem you have due to weak Breaker point spring tension...
I'm no expert....
Agm
 

Barry Rechtorov

Donation Time
I used all new fuel line when I ran it on an electric pump with fuel from a gallon jug. I think I am going to look into distributor and vacum leaks next.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Barry, when you go into the distributor, be sure to change capacitor and rotor. Especially the capacitor. Sometimes, as a bad one warms up, they can do an amazing job of making you think you are running out of gas.

Bill
 
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