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Water temp at 210?

donchiotos

Donation Time
I just finished my V6 project and trying to get the temp down. It runs about 210 in normal traffic light driving. Is this normal for these engines? My engine is using Joes specs for the cam, and heads. I just put the blanking plates in each side of the radiator. That seemed to help over Cap, and radiator press are good. I am not boiling over or am I loosing water. I'v read the post on this issue. Just thought I would post a question and see what cam back.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
The first question as you are not losing coolant is have you verified ypur gauge with an infrared thermometer to make sure the reading is correct.. Depending on your gauge, temp sender resistance and where you located the sender all could give a misleading reading.
 

donchiotos

Donation Time
The first question as you are not losing coolant is have you verified ypur gauge with an infrared thermometer to make sure the reading is correct.. Depending on your gauge, temp sender resistance and where you located the sender all could give a misleading reading.
Yep, temp gauge is a new VDO gauge and sensor verified using hot water and digital thermometer. Both read the same..
 

Slainte

Donation Time
Mine seems to sit right around 200. Idling for a while can take it to 210, but it drifts back down when the car starts to move.
 

donchiotos

Donation Time
Mine seems to sit right around 200. Idling for a while can take it to 210, but it drifts back down when the car starts to move.
I have 2 puller fans mounted on engine side of radiator with shrouding. Radiator has been rebuilt. The fins zig-zag vertically and I think I have 12-13 fins per inch.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Over 113000 miles, I found the VDO temp gauge/sender combo to be a total POS. It is very good at filling the hole in the dash, but if you need to know the temp, find a good thermometer.

Bill
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
I had a 1967 Bronco do that, I found the voltage regulator was bad and was outputting over 18 volts throwing off the gauge.
 

donchiotos

Donation Time
I had a 1967 Bronco do that, I found the voltage regulator was bad and was outputting over 18 volts throwing off the gauge.
I adjusted the carb and Set timing to 12deg and took the car for a spin after about 25 minutes of neighborhood driving at under 30 mph the temp ruse to 220. I took it home and let it cool down. Same problem. I
 

donchiotos

Donation Time
I just finished my V6 project and trying to get the temp down. It runs about 210 in normal traffic light driving. Is this normal for these engines? My engine is using Joes specs for the cam, and heads. I just put the blanking plates in each side of the radiator. That seemed to help over Cap, and radiator press are good. I am not boiling over or am I loosing water. I'v read the post on this issue. Just thought I would post a question and see what cam back.
I was looking at the aluminum Griffin radiators that they can make a radiator for me. So if I sent my radiator to them and had them make be a radiator from aluminum that would give max cooling this might solve my problem. Or is this a bad idea? Has anyone done this before? Any ideas. My radiator has 12 fins per inch.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
An aluminum radiator cannot outperform a copper one with the same specifications. In fact, it cannot match it. So what is the thermometer reading?
Bill
 

belmateo

Gold Level Sponsor
I just finished my V6 project and trying to get the temp down. It runs about 210 in normal traffic light driving. Is this normal for these engines? My engine is using Joes specs for the cam, and heads. I just put the blanking plates in each side of the radiator. That seemed to help over Cap, and radiator press are good. I am not boiling over or am I loosing water. I'v read the post on this issue. Just thought I would post a question and see what cam back.

What thermostat are you using?
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
An aluminum radiator cannot outperform a copper one with the same specifications. In fact, it cannot match it. So what is the thermometer reading?
Bill



Depending on the specific alloys, "copper" has about twice the thermal conductivity of "aluminum." That seems like a good thing, but the difference in thermal conductivity between copper and aluminum makes essentially no difference in the ability of an otherwise identical radiator to cool an engine. The critical factor is not transfer of heat energy through the metal of the radiator, but rather, the transfer of heat energy from the metal of the radiator to the air passing through the radiator. How much air moves through the radiator and the total surface area of the tubes / fins matters a lot; aluminum vs. copper does not.
 

donchiotos

Donation Time
An aluminum radiator cannot outperform a copper one with the same specifications. In fact, it cannot match it. So what is the thermometer reading?
Bill
The thermostat reading is 220 when I turned the engine off due to rising water temp. I am certain my temp gauge is reading correctly. Also checked the instrument voltage regulator and it is reading with in specs.
Depending on the specific alloys, "copper" has about twice the thermal conductivity of "aluminum." That seems like a good thing, but the difference in thermal conductivity between copper and aluminum makes essentially no difference in the ability of an otherwise identical radiator to cool an engine. The critical factor is not transfer of heat energy through the metal of the radiator, but rather, the transfer of heat energy from the metal of the radiator to the air passing through the radiator. How much air moves through the radiator and the total surface area of the tubes / fins matters a lot; aluminum vs. copper does not.
Thanks for the reply. My thermostat is a 180 Deg stat. Maybe I need to lower this to the lowest temp stat I can get, maybe 165. What you said makes sense, but am not sure how I would know how much air I need. I could measure the air flow using an air flow meter. But what do I compare the reading to? I have attached a picture of the engine compartment showing the two fans and shrouding for the fans. I measured the fins per inch and came up with 11. Lowering the thermostat is what I came up with so far but I do not think this will solve my problem. I would like to put a much larger radiator, but just do not have the room between the water pump pulley and shrouding. I have the modified stock radiator with a few more fins than the 9 fins per in for the stock radiator. What would a different water pump pulley do? If so which one and where do I get one?
 

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MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
How is the timing and fuel mixture? Both retarded timing and lean fuel mixture can contribute to over heating. Have you checked that the thermostat is opening?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
If the car is overheating, a colder thermostat will not help. At 210 degrees, the 180 thermostat is wide open, same as the 165 thermostat. Maybe your problem is insufficient water flow. In that situation, water remains in the radiator and is very cool when it enters the engine. The problem is the water remains in the engine too long and gets too hot. What is the temperature difference between the radiator inlet and outlet?

Building on MikeH's post, have your removed the radiator cap, then run the engine up to operating temperature and visibly checked water flow? It should be obvious and very energenic.

Bill
 

donchiotos

Donation Time
If the car is overheating, a colder thermostat will not help. At 210 degrees, the 180 thermostat is wide open, same as the 165 thermostat. Maybe your problem is insufficient water flow. In that situation, water remains in the radiator and is very cool when it enters the engine. The problem is the water remains in the engine too long and gets too hot. What is the temperature difference between the radiator inlet and outlet?

Building on MikeH's post, have your removed the radiator cap, then run the engine up to operating temperature and visibly checked water flow? It should be obvious and very energenic.

Bill
Thanks for the response. That's what I thought about the stat. I have not seen if there is movement in the water after warm up. I will try that. I read on some other post on a Ford 2.8 V6 forum the pulley idea sounds promising. It seems if I have a 7 inch pulley replace with a 6 0r 5 inch pulley. This will flow more water at idle and lower speeds. Concerning the test with the cap off the radiator, and after warm up, stat open, I should see turbulence in the water when revving up the engine. If I don't that would mean the thermostat is not opening. Does this sound like good possibilities to you?
 
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