• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

CD Stromberg T piece

moonstone SIV

Donation Time
Greetings Sunbeamers,

Seeking some feedback on the longevity, or lack thereof of the repro plastic T piece between the carbs on Alpine V and any of the Arrow based variants.

I have items here sourced from Sunbeam Specialties and Speedy Spares UK. Given the moulding marks they appear to come from the same manufacturer, I believe UK based but they could be outsourced to Mongolia for all I can gather. The issue is a leak where the metal outlet is fitted to the plastic. Some have lasted months, the most recent only a couple of days. The plastic? is also far less pliable than an OE item and requires careful coaxing to fit the carb inlet spout.

I'm growing increasingly tired of reproduction parts that are not fit for purpose. Anyone else care to share their experience with these items? I should add that the stock I was using was probably 5 to 10 years old but properly stored before use.

Cheers, Lance.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I’ve not seen a modern replacement for that T-pipe that isn’t a criminally-liable fire hazard.

The originals were made of a semi-soft nylon-like material that at least had the semblance of being fit for purpose (though even they would eventually go hard and crack due to engine heat), but, as you noted, the replacements are far too hard, brittle and poorly constructed. Unless you are dragging a pumper truck behind your Sunbeam with a full crew of first class firefighters, I’d advise against using them.

My suggestion is to do what I did - braze up a brass T-pipe that matches the existing pipe diameters, and then connect it to both carburetors with short pieces of fuel-safe rubber hose and 4 small clamps. Job done, and better than new.
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Can only second to what Kevin suggested and that's what I did too, i.e. brazing up a T-piece and connect with small hoses. Actually used copper brake tubing for that job and works a treat since many years. Get rid of these plastic fire hazards ...
 

65beam

Donation Time
Tiger Tom made up and sold pieces using brass T's and compression fittings available at any parts house. He added a short piece of tubing for the fuel line to connect to.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Mike Hartman(mhartman) made one for my 1725 Strombergs! Nice work and it "WORKS Too:)
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
The replacement plastic tee from Sunbeam Specialties had leakage issues quickly.

I couldn't get rubber hoses to fit onto the carb brass nipples. Not enough space in between the nipples. Maybe the hoses would have fit if I would have cut the nipples short?

Instead, I went with this compression joint with a supply tube:
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/Stromberg fuel tee.pdf

I have compression joints and brass tube to make more pieces if anyone is interested.

Mike
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
I've come across so many pairs of Strombergs with the inlet pipes cut short to make room for hoses. but then leaving marginally enough surface for the hoses to be safely clamped to.

I'm still running one of those hard T's, but with both ends hose-clamped. I also made sure the carbs/nipples were in alignment.



The replacement plastic tee from Sunbeam Specialties had leakage issues quickly.

I couldn't get rubber hoses to fit onto the carb brass nipples. Not enough space in between the nipples. Maybe the hoses would have fit if I would have cut the nipples short?

Instead, I went with this compression joint with a supply tube:
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/Stromberg fuel tee.pdf

I have compression joints and brass tube to make more pieces if anyone is interested.

Mike
 

moonstone SIV

Donation Time
Thanks Chaps,

While I understand their are various ways to substitute the original plastic item, my point was why are suppliers in the US and the UK selling this item that's not fit for purpose? And to clarify, the leak is from the metal pipe fitted to the T piece, not at the carburettor inlet.

Whilst other repro items of questionable quality can be fiddled to work, (undersize layshafts, incorrectly contoured trunk hinges, horn rings with casting blow holes etc...), a "new" fuel system part that leaks can obviously lead to a catastrophic failure.

I was lucky to have an OE item still in the Talbot bag to solve the problem this time. And yes, the original T piece was always clamped at the carb inlet spouts.
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
They sell the parts because their business is selling parts. Same reason they sell motor mounts that are too stiff to use. It is all they have on hand.

My repro T leaked at the carb inlets, not at the metal supply pipe.

Personally, I wouldn’t use a NOS fuel tee given the failure I encountered. I’m very lucky my house didn’t burn down.

Mike
 

65beam

Donation Time
These were sold by Tiger Tom. All the pieces are still available at any parts store. Notice he made two different sizes.110_1243.JPG
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
These were sold by Tiger Tom. All the pieces are still available at any parts store. Notice he made two different sizes.View attachment 20559

I never found any off the shelf T compression joints that were narrow enough to fit between the two SV carbs. The space between the carbs is only 1.63”. I searched quit a while...

Mike
 

65beam

Donation Time
Mike,
You need to remove the carbs and separate them to install these. You won't be able to fit them otherwise. You won't find these T's in the blister packs hanging on the racks . Common sense will tell you to go to a store that has counter guys that have a knowledge of the business and what to look for in their parts books rather than tapping on the key board to look up a part under Sunbeam. Most counter guys have no clue what a SUNBEAM is. You'll find stores like NAPA have racks in the back with these items. The use of fittings such as this is wide spread on truck repairs. There are other sources such as McMaster Carr and probably other suppliers such as Pegasus. You might have to order them if the store doesn't stock the T's. Some modification may also be required! Notice the tubing on the bottom is nothing other than a steel tube. The ferrules TT used are not your standard compression ferrule.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Resurrecting this thread, rather than making a new one....

So I don't know if the Sunbeam suppliers are still offering the nylon fuel "T" anymore (and it's a fire hazard anyway), but Moss sells a similar item for the Jag (link & photo below)...


C28915_1.jpg



However, more importantly, they also offer an alternative metal fuel "T" that may be just the ticket for the Z-S equipped SV Alpines. It seems to be a much better solution than the dangerous original style nylon T's, or the cobbled-up brass fittings I've seen (and made myself!) in the past.


... and some low-pressure clamps...

C35649_1.jpg
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
Kevin,

Nice find there. Doing some math to see if a short rubber hose could attach the tee to the carb nipple:
Width between the pair of carb nipples is 1.63".
If the top part of the tee is 1/4" OD, which hopefully it is, then I'd guess the stem width is ~3/8".
So that would leave slightly more than 0.6" on either side of the stem for the rubber hose to be clamped. Seems like it should be sufficient.

I'll pick one up and check it out.

Thanks!
Mike
 

65sunbeam

SAOCA Membership Director
Diamond Level Sponsor
No I have not-just found it on that Lotus site and the price seems great!
Do the Stromberg fuel line connections use 1/4 inch rubber fuel hose?
 
Top