Copper-nickel brake lines

[phyrman]

With the copper-nickel brake lines that can be purchased thru SS or other suppliers, if you have to cut and re-flare an end, I highly recommend the following:
(I just learned this thru my dad the Mech Engr)
heat with a torch until it blues (annealing process), then quickly quench the piece in water. This softens the material so you can flare it without cracking occurring yet retains strength ! I learned this the hard way!
You can do this with a larger portion of the pipe if you have to create a complicated bend.

BD

 

[65beam]

With the copper-nickel brake lines that can be purchased thru SS or other suppliers, if you have to cut and re-flare an end, I highly recommend the following:
(I just learned this thru my dad the Mech Engr)
heat with a torch until it blues (annealing process), then quickly quench the piece in water. This softens the material so you can flare it without cracking occurring yet retains strength ! I learned this the hard way!
You can do this with a larger portion of the pipe if you have to create a complicated bend.

BD

O'Reilly also carries copper /nickel brake lines with the proper fittings in various lengths.

 

[Jimjordan2]

O'Reilly also carries copper /nickel brake lines with the proper fittings in various lengths.

I think that was meant to be a shared lesson. I know I appreciate learning new things. "If you need to cut and re-flair" here's how you do it. And when you're doing custom work, you need a custom length. But you're right, they do carry various lengths.
Thanks for sharing Bruce.

 

[phyrman]

Welcome Jim!

 

[65beam]

My comment was an FYI because many don't have a flaring tool or the expertise to make the lines so they can't make the bubble flair lines. I hope it helps to let these folks know the parts are out there. Our local AutoZone can order starters, generators and alternators for Beams. Most of the big box parts stores carry radiator caps, thermostats and many other parts for our cars.

 

[Bill Blue]

I found no need to anneal copper-nickle when flaring for common flared fittings for use in fuel lines. Double flares for brake lines are a totally different issue.

I found that when attaching rubber hose to metal tubes, common plumbing ferrules Lock Tited onto the tube were an excellent solution to the problem of ensuring a leak free connection and the hose sliding off the tube. The stuff not only holds the ferrule in place, it is impervious to gasoline. If Lock Tite is too easy or you do not trust it, solder the ferrule in place. The brass ferrule and copper nickle tube are a dream to solder.

Bill

 

[Limey]

Whilst we are covering the bases of what's available, if you have the inclination to be period correct (and you don't need to be if you don't want to) then use Bundy tube. Sold in straight zinc'd lengths. Bends easily, gives lovely straight runs between bends and flares beautifully.

 

[Toyanvil]

This is what I use, and all my lines are SS.

It also does not leave grooves in the line, that can be bad.

 

[Limey]

SS = Stainless steel? If so totally wrong. Very low burst strength. Fatal. That tooli s the same as mine tho'. Proper job.

 

[Toyanvil]

Are you kidding about Stainless Steel brake lines? If not, you should Google "What is the best brake line material". I am running 304 grade Stainless Steel brake lines with a pressure rating of 6000 lbs. The only reason not to use it is, it is harder to work with and the price is higher.

 

[MikeH]

The replacement brake line kit I got for my Mustang is Stainless Steel.

From the vendor:
Tech Tip: Original steel lines will give your Mustang a classic factory-original look, while the more modern stainless steel lines will rust less than the original steel.

 

[Limey]

Apologies. SS is OK I guess but I was told it's hardness led to stress fractures and bd flaring for double buble fittings and it got a bad rep. The burst test rating is OK. Bundy being rolled is nearer 10klb. However This is from memory so don't shoot me down if I'm a little rusty

 

[Bill Blue]

What is Bundy tube?

 

[Limey]

Rolled steel tube - Its what they make brake pipes out of today and back in the 60's as well.

Just checked, Bundy is very strong - 16500 psi.

Apologies to Toyanvil and MikeH. I didn't think cars used Stainless steel hydraulic pipes but you learn something every day.

 

[bernd_st]

We only use Kunifer over here. Works great, easy to flare, reasonable price - no failures reported...

 

[Barry]

We only use Kunifer over here. Works great, easy to flare, reasonable price - no failures reported...

Just another name for copper-nickel tubing.

 

[65beam]

I know that Sunbeam Specialties sells the Automec brake line kits. These kits are made in the U.K and are made with all lines premade and tagged as to location on the car. They're available in either copper or copper/nickel. I don't know if Curt @ Classic carries them.

 

[bernd_st]

@ Barry: Correct...

@65beam: Can not recommend Automec. Copper lines are poor quality and occasionally wrong flares. Not sure about their copper/nickel kits...

 

[65beam]

@ Barry: Correct...

@65beam: Can not recommend Automec. Copper lines are poor quality and occasionally wrong flares. Not sure about their copper/nickel kits...

Rick sells the copper / nickel kits.

 

[DanR]

This is what I use, and all my lines are SS

John, Many thanks for that post! It helped me make up my mind for which tool to purchase!!! I bought the Eastwood like you have a few minutes ago with both the 45 and 37 degree capability.