Clayton Dewandre -Another messy one...

[bernd_st]

Just obtained another "good condition" Clayton Brake Servo from UK generating quite some fun .
From the outside it looked rather clean but on the inside ...
Anyway the good news is that the diaphragm is still OK.

By the way does anybody know a good tool for opening that dreaded holed center nut giving access to the hydraulics chamber ?

 

[alpine_64]

Always wondered why rootes opted for the CDwe Servos on the Harrington ... They had 2 home grown comon options...

 

[bernd_st]

Several UK car makers used the Clayton's in the early 60's. This one actually came from a Triumph guy. Perhaps the Girling one wasn't finally developed or ready for masspro at that time.
If I compare both however the Clayton is much better designed. Alu diecast housing - less weight, thicker and more durable diaphragm,etc. .On the other hand I suspect cost must have been higher that's why it was mainly offered as an option...

 

[Bill Blue]

By the way does anybody know a good tool for opening that dreaded holed center nut giving access to the hydraulics chamber ?

Looks like it takes a pin spanner. They are not very common on this side of the pond, I would probably make one. The tricky part is finding material of the proper size and temper to use as pins.

Bill

 

[bernd_st]

Thanks. Yes a strong and durable pin spanner would be required. I made one myself out of a 1/2" steel water tube and two wires welded to it. However it didn't prove strong enough since the nut is well coroded into the thread. Contact corrosion of the different materials is a big issue with these Clayton's...

 

[Bill Blue]

I'd try roll pins, large enough they would collapse a bit as they were driven into the holes. The pins are spring steel and pretty tough. The "wrench" portion could have slightly oversized hole so it would slide onto the pins. No welding allowed, the heat destroys the temper of the spring steel.

Bill

 

[bernd_st]

Sounds like a plan. Will try it then...

 

[Barry]

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=adjustable+pin+wrench&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss

Scroll down to see more choices.

No personal experience.

 

[bernd_st]

Interesting suggestion. However it doesn't work for this application since that dreaded nut sits deep in the vacuum chamber...

 

[Barry]

As I said, "Scroll down."

https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T70566...ustable+pin+wrench&qid=1567459044&s=hi&sr=1-9

 

[65beam]

Go to your local hardware or home store and buy a basin wrench for use on kitchen faucets. Apply a little heat and loosen the nut.

 

[bernd_st]

Heat might work, but I'm doubtful regarding the basin wrench. Not easy to apply circular grip trip to the nut since it sits low in the hydraulik opening. Guess I need to find a suitable pin wrench still...

 

[bernd_st]

No proper tool found. Today I remembered my "wonder weapon" which is the centre piece of an old crossmember fulcrum pin. Spot-welded it to that dreaded nut. Quite some heat and brute force applied with a 3/4 spanner ultimately removed it. Found more rust horror underneath but made a big step forward

P.S. Nothing to worry about: The pin will be cut off with an angle grinder later...

 

[bernd_st]

Just got a bunch of stainless No. 10 UNC slotted head screws which will replace the rotten vacuum chamber ones. They do fit excellently but wondering which size are the suction chamber ones. Either No. 8 or No. 6 UNC. Who can enlighten me ?

 

[bernd_st]

Nobody ?! Ok ultimately measured the diameter which is around 4mm, so they should be No.8 UNC's ...

 

[Limey]

Good luck Bernd. I had the same issue. In the end I sent it away to be bored and sleeved.

Oddly enough I bought a NOS one this week as they don't come round to often. Didn't you find a NOS one this year as well?

Oliver

PS the Le Mans genuine engine block 'Sold' (?) for £4000 At least that is what the advert said

 

[65beam]

The booster itself seems to be less complicated than the Girlings. This one has been modified and should never be a problem in the future.

 

[bernd_st]

I wonder whether anybody out there has some long term Clayton useage experiences . But would believe they should work fine once properly rebuilt. At least much better than the dreaded "piston sticking" Girling ones..

Oliver: Is there a good company in UK which you could recommend for a re-sleeve ? How much did you pay ? Can you pls. post a picture showing the front side

P.S. Yes I ended up having 4 now (used / NOS) and trying to assemble at least one good one out of these. 2 have rotten cylinder bores, 1 misses the diaphragm, 3 miss the brake line adaptors and so on. At least a good parts pile to start from. Documentation is not much plus extremely difficult to find the proper seals. Somebody told me that Girling ones would partially fit but doubt that....

P.P.S. 4k for the engine block is still much high , wonder whether the 3000 RW owner finally went for it...

 

[Limey]

Hi Bernd,

Try http://www.pastparts.co.uk

I think it was around £100 to have a stainless steel liner fitted, piston seals and a general clean and overhaul (I did not need the main diaphragm replacing tho')

I can recommend 'Aluminium Brightener' for getting the castings nearly as good as new. Most Ali cleaner leave the metal dull. This stuff leaves it much brighter.

If I was the US owner I would definitely have paid £4K because the engine he has know does not look like the original one to me....

Oliver

 

[bernd_st]

Oliver,

perfect , thanks for link. Will try them. Hope they can provide the rubber seals - the diaphragm certainly not. Alu brightener treatment to follow later...