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The Journey Begins - Series I V6 Restomod

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
And now for something different...while the “cutting and pasting” is going on with the sheet metal, restoration of other parts is under way. A6D5217A-6F75-485B-AD01-8B7C1D8BAA39.jpeg Picked up the first batch of parts from the powder coater today. Sure looks better than all the rusty stuff that I took in!
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Mike- you are correct....I was going by the front suspension on it which is the later design....I was under the impression that the suspension change wasn't made until the SIV-SV cars but it must have been converted at some point by a previous owner.
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
81FD120E-786E-4436-A725-20049481B2AE.jpeg With all the metal work dragging on in the back ground I had the urge to veer off on a little side project just so I could see some accomplishment. Some months back I had John Redmond make a set of valve covers. This past week I had them powder coated (black crinkle finish) and then gave them a little love with a belt sander. They came out very nice and give a little tip of the hat to the look of the vintage Ford and Shelby valve covers of the 60’s.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Bill, I sure like the finish you put on them! Crinkley Black:)

I still have some of the valve covers from the last group buy we made from jrcast (John Redmond)
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Dan, the original Cobra valve covers (and most of the repros available today) used a crinkle finish paint... I like the powder coating much better as it's bullet proof to things like brake fluid, etc
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
03299C02-E8EA-4382-936D-98F6272A0529.jpeg 971A3BB1-21CA-46A0-9AC4-3713FC5D6CFF.jpeg F187D708-1C59-4BB7-98FD-E7C98BE96989.jpeg E5FDEB5A-D297-4289-9A3C-710F343E3A9C.jpeg We’ve moved from the “What have we gotten ourselves into?” phase onto the “There’s no turning back now” phase. I acquired those early series shells in order to have a supply of decent sheet metal to work with since my “no rust” car was a tad worse than advertised to say the least. As it turned out, between the rust and the horrible previous body work that was revealed after media blasting, replacing the entire front clip of the my car with one from one of the shells became the obvious thing to do. Other than a couple of manageable dings and dents one of the shells had (for the most part) a very clean front clip...the clip we are using is from an SIII so there are some obvious issues with few things like the upper cowl area for the windshield mount, wiper motor mount, etc, but nothing very difficult that we can’t deal with. We built a frame jig, bolted everything down and we are on the way! It’s nice to be putting things back together instead of cutting them apart!
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
FC0F095B-E253-4152-ACCE-A0F21EC1A04B.jpeg It’s been a while since I updated...my body/paint guy has had to get a couple other projects out the door but he’s back at it slowly but surely.

In the mean time I’ve been figuring out what I need for the engine and have been bugging a lot of folks here on the forum with dumb questions.

Also, continuing to gather parts...I like to look at these...kind of like a jewel box...they are really going to look good in the car!
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
Bill,

You and your body man are either very crazy or very brave, possibly both.

I like the look of the Speedhut gauges; they are very "Series Alpine correct."
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill,

You and your body man are either very crazy or very brave, possibly both.

I like the look of the Speedhut gauges; they are very "Series Alpine correct."

Crazy might be right...I seem to have a talent for finding cars that really should be taken to the landfill instead of restoring them.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
View attachment 17273 It’s been a while since I updated...my body/paint guy has had to get a couple other projects out the door but he’s back at it slowly but surely.

In the mean time I’ve been figuring out what I need for the engine and have been bugging a lot of folks here on the forum with dumb questions.

Also, continuing to gather parts...I like to look at these...kind of like a jewel box...they are really going to look good in the car!

I used Speed Hut gauges as well and am pretty happy with them. One thing I would do different - I would leave the clock out of it. It's a PITA to reset the time and it never gets used anyway.
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
I'd have to think about it a bit but it shouldn't be too hard to add a small lithium ion, etc battery in parallel to keep the clock going and/or figure out a place up under the dash to mount the resetting button so its not such a pain to reset.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
I'd have to think about it a bit but it shouldn't be too hard to add a small lithium ion, etc battery in parallel to keep the clock going and/or figure out a place up under the dash to mount the resetting button so its not such a pain to reset.

Hey if you want we can link the clock to GPS time and have it update every night so it's accurate too. Adding a 12V sleeper cell battery to the system is a lotta trouble just to keep the clock going. Easy access to the reset button makes more sense. Whatever works for you, right?
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
I think I recall this discussion from long ago about clock power and a battery cutoff switch. I think someone suggested mounting a small wire with a very small amperage inline fuse in parallel to the cut off switch. This would continue supplying power to radios and clocks with the battery switched off. The small amperage fuse would blow very quickly if a situation drawing more than residual power requirements occurred. I don't recall any real feedback or discussion on the suggestion. I can envision a couple of possible issues but not sure they are major problems. Number one would be operator error and then the resistance in the disconnect causing too much current to try to flow through the bypass when starting.

Anybody have any thoughts or improvements on this possible solution - good or bad?
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
I think I recall this discussion from long ago about clock power and a battery cutoff switch. I think someone suggested mounting a small wire with a very small amperage inline fuse in parallel to the cut off switch. This would continue supplying power to radios and clocks with the battery switched off. The small amperage fuse would blow very quickly if a situation drawing more than residual power requirements occurred. I don't recall any real feedback or discussion on the suggestion. I can envision a couple of possible issues but not sure they are major problems. Number one would be operator error and then the resistance in the disconnect causing too much current to try to flow through the bypass when starting.

Anybody have any thoughts or improvements on this possible solution - good or bad?

Two diodes and two batteries would be a lot simpler. As an EE, I would not bother. It's a lot of effort just to keep a clock powered up when the battery is disconnected.
 
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