better alternatives to leaky slip fit exhaust joints?

[mightyohm]

One of my first orders of business once the car is running is to improve the exhaust system. I never got rid of all of the exhaust leaks out last time the car was on the road. Most of the leaks are due to the very poor fit between the new aftermarket stainless headers and the new stainless Y pipe. I dread removing the exhaust when I pull the engine because I usually overtighten one of the clamps while trying to get rid of leaks and the pipes become very difficult to separate. Given how often the engine comes out of this car I'd like a better system.

Has anyone tried replacing the slip fit joints with some kind of flange or V clamp connection to eliminate the leaks and make the exhaust easier to remove?

 

[chazza]

One of my first orders of business once the car is running is to improve the exhaust system. I never got rid of all of the exhaust leaks out last time the car was on the road. Most of the leaks are due to the very poor fit between the new aftermarket stainless headers and the new stainless Y pipe. I dread removing the exhaust when I pull the engine because I usually overtighten one of the clamps while trying to get rid of leaks and the pipes become very difficult to separate. Given how often the engine comes out of this car I'd like a better system.

Has anyone tried replacing the slip fit joints with some kind of flange or V clamp connection to eliminate the leaks and make the exhaust easier to remove?

No I have not, but roof and gutter silicone, or high-temperature silicone for the manifold end, does seal all of the joints very well,

Cheers Charlie

 

[alpine_64]

I have used an exhuast wrap tape like a special aluminium foil. I wrapped it around the primary pipe and added some permatex.
Open the pipe you slip over a little so it clears the tape and then clamp down on that and it acts like a gasket and you get a decent deal and eould wont crush the pipes.

 

[Hillman]

I forget what these are called, but a bit of acoustic sealer and they work great. https://www.amazon.ca/Vibrant-1170-Exhaust-Sleeve-Clamp/dp/B001806YB0

 

[alpine_64]

I forget what these are called, but a bit of acoustic sealer and they work great. https://www.amazon.ca/Vibrant-1170-Exhaust-Sleeve-Clamp/dp/B001806YB0

I ude these on my tiger. As you stated some sealer in them also helps. I use these after my header collectors to switch between side pipes or full muffled system.. They work and last well.

 

[junkman]

I run the stock 1 3/4" pipes on my tiger and got some wrap around type clamps at a local motorcycle shop. They work great and don't dimple the pipes making taking them apart no big deal.

 

[husky drvr]

Has anyone tried replacing the slip fit joints with some kind of flange or V clamp connection to eliminate the leaks and make the exhaust easier to remove?

Jeff, Try searching "band clamps" on Summit Racing's site. They have several vendors listed with a wide array of types and sizes. Also, some that are specifically designed for lap or slip fit joints. If those are like the ones I've experience with, they tend to be a single use item because they stretch when pulled down to conform with the joint but they work very well. As far as sealing, we used to just use a small roll of aluminum foil along the band joint. No mess and separates easily.

 

[mightyohm]

Jeff, Try searching "band clamps" on Summit Racing's site. They have several vendors listed with a wide array of types and sizes. Also, some that are specifically designed for lap or slip fit joints. If those are like the ones I've experience with, they tend to be a single use item because they stretch when pulled down to conform with the joint but they work very well. As far as sealing, we used to just use a small roll of aluminum foil along the band joint. No mess and separates easily.

Don, I purchased some band clamps a while back, but as soon as I started to crank them tight, one of them broke. I don't think they are designed to compress stainless pipe. I think part of the issue may be that the slip joint from the headers to the Y pipe is very loose. Perhaps I should look at having the header pipes expanded to better fit the Y pipe. (Assuming stainless pipes can be expanded, that is..)

 

[mightyohm]

I run the stock 1 3/4" pipes on my tiger and got some wrap around type clamps at a local motorcycle shop. They work great and don't dimple the pipes making taking them apart no big deal.

Which type of clamps were they? Did they look like this?

 

[Ashfried]

I just put on a pair of these Zoro $8.06 after wrapping joint with Exhaust tape. Major difference and took 1 day to ship.

 

[husky drvr]

Jeff, I was referring to a clamp that is three inches wide and does not actually crush the pipes to seal. The band itself stretches and seals against the outside surface of the joined pipes. The downsides are that these clamps don't have a great deal of leeway for pipe sizing and Summit doesn't seem to carry smaller than two inch clamps.

It was just a thought. Good luck.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692200-1

 

[hartmandm]

Jeff,

I addressed leaky exhaust connections after installing an OD in my series V using band clamps and adding gasket material. I have a stainless steel exhaust system from Sunbeam Specialties. I believe it is the Falcon brand. Here are the notes I recorded:

After reassembling the exhaust components as part of the OD gearbox install, there are leaky exhaust joints:

• The header to downdraft joint (I did use a new gasket).
• All 3 of the Y section joints
• The joint just behind the X frame
• Maybe the muffler pipe joint, too, but that was not taken apart during the OD gearbox install.

All of the original saddle clamps that were removed were 1-3/4" size. However, the two front pipe joints on the Y section are 1-5/8" and the muffler joint is 1-7/8".
Purchased Stainless Works NBC175 AccuSeal 1-3/4" stainless steel exhaust clamp bands from Summit Racing. They are 1-1/4" wide bands.
Purchased two 1-5/8" (actually 40-43 mm) stainless steel, Bell brand, SSBC4043 clamps from EnglishParts.com (for Y pipe) [They are actually Norma GBS W2 clamps]
Purchased one 1-7/8" (actually 47-51 mm) stainless steel, Bell brand, SSBC4751 clamp from EnglishParts.com (for muffler pipe joint). [They are actually Norma GBS W2 clamps]
These Norma clamps have 3/4" wide bands.

Used Permatex Ultra Copper gasket material on the slits in the pipe joints and on the header to downpipe gasket. Applied the Permatex, tightened bolts & clamps loosely. Waited an hour for gasket material to firm up some. Then fully tightened all bolts & clamps. Gasket material was squeezed out during the final tightening.

Later, I had a reason to disassemble one of these joints and it was easy to separate the joint and remove the gasket material.

Mike

 

[DanR]

Mike, That is a very good write-up and explains well the parts to utilize in the process.

I will retain this for the '65 SIVST OD colour code 70 Alpine of mine that is getting the new 1725 engine and all the other goodies like you mentioned, Stainless headers & pipes etc.

 

[mightyohm]

Jeff, I was referring to a clamp that is three inches wide and does not actually crush the pipes to seal. The band itself stretches and seals against the outside surface of the joined pipes. The downsides are that these clamps don't have a great deal of leeway for pipe sizing and Summit doesn't seem to carry smaller than two inch clamps.

It was just a thought. Good luck.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692200-1

Don, now I understand the kind you are referring to. I do think that the joint needs to be fairly closely matched in order for these to work. Thanks for posting the link!

 

[mightyohm]

Jeff,

I addressed leaky exhaust connections after installing an OD in my series V using band clamps and adding gasket material. I have a stainless steel exhaust system from Sunbeam Specialties. I believe it is the Falcon brand. Here are the notes I recorded:

After reassembling the exhaust components as part of the OD gearbox install, there are leaky exhaust joints:

• The header to downdraft joint (I did use a new gasket).
• All 3 of the Y section joints
• The joint just behind the X frame
• Maybe the muffler pipe joint, too, but that was not taken apart during the OD gearbox install.

All of the original saddle clamps that were removed were 1-3/4" size. However, the two front pipe joints on the Y section are 1-5/8" and the muffler joint is 1-7/8".
Purchased Stainless Works NBC175 AccuSeal 1-3/4" stainless steel exhaust clamp bands from Summit Racing. They are 1-1/4" wide bands.
Purchased two 1-5/8" (actually 40-43 mm) stainless steel, Bell brand, SSBC4043 clamps from EnglishParts.com (for Y pipe) [They are actually Norma GBS W2 clamps]
Purchased one 1-7/8" (actually 47-51 mm) stainless steel, Bell brand, SSBC4751 clamp from EnglishParts.com (for muffler pipe joint). [They are actually Norma GBS W2 clamps]
These Norma clamps have 3/4" wide bands.

Used Permatex Ultra Copper gasket material on the slits in the pipe joints and on the header to downpipe gasket. Applied the Permatex, tightened bolts & clamps loosely. Waited an hour for gasket material to firm up some. Then fully tightened all bolts & clamps. Gasket material was squeezed out during the final tightening.

Later, I had a reason to disassemble one of these joints and it was easy to separate the joint and remove the gasket material.

Mike

Mike - thanks for the tip on the copper RTV. I had no idea that there was an RTV available that can withstand exhaust manifold temperatures.

I'll check out the clamps you posted.

 

[nsbluenose]

This is what I did on my 1725. Welded a flange to the exhaust down pipes and matching flange to the Y pipe. Flange are a copy of the flange on the top end of the down pipes that bolts to the manifold, uses the same gasket on both connections. Undue 4 bolts and the exhaust separates, no crushed pipes, no pipe wrap.

 

[DanR]

This is what I did on my 1725. Welded a flange to the exhaust down pipes and matching flange to the Y pipe. Flange are a copy of the flange on the top end of the down pipes that bolts to the manifold, uses the same gasket on both connections. Undue 4 bolts and the exhaust separates, no crushed pipes, no pipe wrap.

I like your idea of welding a flange to the exhaust down pipes and matching flange to the Y pipe

 

[mightyohm]

Agreed. Nicely done. Is that a mild steel down pipe and y section? I didn’t think those were still available.

 

[nsbluenose]

Mild steel, but old, old pieces.

 

[Warren]

Great thread after rummaging through the box marked brake shoes from SS I called Rick and said where's the clamps on the Tiger set. After breaking the piggy bank for the system I was somewhat disappointed that the clamps were appropriate ones were not included. The old sleeve steel ones certainly would have been serviceable if they spent a couple days in the Evaporust. Rick said they don't work and offered no advice.
A pal recently have the band clamps put on and since they had to adjust his system a little bit they tacked the band clamps on. At better part of 10 bucks a piece that's 60 bucks on clamps.
yeah I know it's not very much if you're spending over $700 on an exhaust system. The Tiger mufflers are hung off center on one side and that looks like they will want to swing down over time. New exhaust on a high mileage motor is really needs a take apart easy option. Be nice to see comments on R and R of different clamps.

As for above that Zorro clamp look like what I used on my 60 year old galvanized pipe 1934 building .... What's the sealing material ?