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Parrish Tops

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bought one a couple of years ago and I have just now found the round tuit needed to get it fixed up and installed.

The darn thing is too short - when setting on the car, the side windows hit the top. I'm going to fix that problem but am wondering, is that common? In my opinion, the top was cut about an inch too short, and the contour of the cut is wrong. Aside from that, it appears to be a nice top, very well made and should be very tight when finished. The rear attaching mechanism is crude, common hardware store turnbuckle, but I can improve on that.

It is interesting the Parrish top is somewhat of a red haired step child in the Alpine world, but the MG guys think they are great. Why the difference of opinion?

Bill
 

John W

Bronze Level Sponsor
Wonder if MG had a factory hardtop for the B and Midget, or just the MGB hardtop.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Sure. How could I tell?

Bill

The darn thing would be too short and when setting on the car, the side windows would hit the top. Plus, the contour of the cut would be wrong.

Sorry. I couldn't resist. The only way I could think to check would be to try and fit it on an early car. Any of them around?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
The darn thing would be too short and when setting on the car, the side windows would hit the top. Plus, the contour of the cut would be wrong.

Sorry. I couldn't resist. The only way I could think to check would be to try and fit it on an early car. Any of them around?

Not in Connertucky.

Bill
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Bill, the side windows on an early alpine SI/II have a pronounced rounded profile at the rear that tapers foward.. no veryical rear edge to the sindows.. they also have a different header raoil profile... they just would not fit.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Post a photo so we can see, that will eliminate the guessing as to which type it is.

Here ya' go. The top is supported by the side glass in the rear and there is a 5/8" gap at the front. The vertical fit, while not perfect, is fairly consistent and usable as is.
IMG_2852.jpg


Windshield gasket seat.
IMG_2851.jpg


Body fit.
IMG_2853.jpg


Windshield fit.
IMG_2854.jpg



Bill
 

65sunbeam

SAOCA Membership Director
Diamond Level Sponsor
I have a top just like that and the fit is terrible. I just leave it on one of my parts car to keep the rain (or most of it) out. Eric
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I have a parish/smoottline top on my series v an the fit is pretty good.

I'm thinking that when Parrish modified the top to fit the later Series cars, they botched the job and during production modified the top to produce a good fit.

I've decided to cut and reshape my top to get a good fit. After all, the reason for a hardtop is a weather tight, quite(er) car. A problem I'm running into is that I have no idea the clearances needed to produce good results. Could you post a few pictures of your top installed on the car? I'm particularly interested in the area around the quarter window and the curve of the side window.

Bill
 

Jaars

Gold Level Sponsor
No answer to your question, but I have also a Parish top.
It needs all new rubber weathgerstripping. Any idea which and where to buy? Robert
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I decided the top was not too short, the window opening was! So I've started on rectifying that situation. After fastening the bottom and getting a better fit around the windshield (bad job of trimming at the factory), I marked my cutting lines. I wanted to make a generous cut as fiberglass fills a loose fit better than a tight fit.
IMG_2855.jpg


After the cut was done, the top popped down and out at a crazy angle. That was good news, showed me the glass was flexible and could be correctly positioned.
IMG_2856.jpg


After blocking the clamping with the home style "Celco Fasteners" - 1/4" bolts, things are looking good. Now to do the other side and wait for nice weather so I can take it outside for the grinding.
IMG_2857.jpg

The window frame is going to be raised about 9/16".

Bill
 

pcmenten

Donation Time
It's interesting to see the troubles you are having. I bought a second hand hard top for my MGB and now I see that it must be a Parrish - it uses a hardware store turnbuckle to hold the back end in place, and the fit is horrific. As our Ken tuc kee friend says, I use it to keep most of the water out. (Need to get the shop built to store my projects inside.)
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Here is the top, glued back together. You can see the gap through the fiberglass.
IMG_3009.jpg


And painted.
IMG_3047.jpg


On the car. Any thoughts on the color combo? I wanted to use Ford French Vanilla, a nice creamy color, but could only find tans. This was one was on closeout for less than two bucks, so I picked it up just to see what it looked like.
IMG_3048.jpg

I'm so used to looking at the car without a top or a black top, I'm not sure I can trust my judgement. All I know is its a shock.

Bill
 

KenDemp

Donation Time
That looks great to me.

I think I have one of those tops. It came with the car, the seller thought it was from a different year 'beam, but this makes much more sense. I thought it might have been aftermarket.

How was it doing the work? Do you have any plans for a head liner?

Ken
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
The top is well constructed and there is plenty of material to work with. In addition to adjusting the window contour, I also built up fiberglass to improve the fit against the window. The first 8" or so (from the windshield) was tapered away from the glass. Mostly just eliminated the taper. Fiberglassing requires little talent (right up my alley), just time.

A little tip. I needed fiberglass to do some shallow filling. Just cut up mat into pieces about a 1/4" long, tear it up so you have individual fibers and add it to resin that has been activated. Apply with a disposable paint brush. Works real well.

A headliner came with the top and is in good shape. Just needs to be cleaned.
A set of new rubber is a big "ouchie", I think it was $300.

Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
My top came with the rusty hardware store fasteners. But no need to stay with them. Here is my stainless steel offering for the rear hold down.

IMG_3049.jpg


The toggle clamp is a marine item, I was able to get them on line for about ten dollars each.

The front hold down will be the stock soft top buckle clamp. The top was drilled to that pattern. I have a couple of scuzzy buckles that I will clean up and paint to match the dash.

Bill
 
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