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Clean-looking HLM at Hyman Motors
- Thread starter JConstable
- Start date
Its mine...
Hi all - several months ago I bought the Hyman Harrington. I paid a little more than the auction price noted in the auction site from 2006 but not much, and alot less than what they listed it for. I know the collectibility isn't as great due to the mods, but for me, I drive it all the time - to work, to dinner in the evening, etc. and the mods make that better. Its a fun car to drive, as you all probably know! And nothing beats heading to work in a Harrington and having people pull out their iPhones as soon as you come by so they can document it! Actually, the biggest issue was the length of time that it had been off the road, so needed all the hydraulics rebuilt and the front end. Also did an alternator conversion. The steering is still a bit too stiff for my taste too. Otherwise, it was alot cheaper than I would have spent to bring a basket case back. And good original cars? Not that I know of!
I have a Series I E-Type that is all original down to the pos grnd and generator, interior, etc. That's my all original car. So sorry if the mods upset some, but for me, its just right!
Hi all - several months ago I bought the Hyman Harrington. I paid a little more than the auction price noted in the auction site from 2006 but not much, and alot less than what they listed it for. I know the collectibility isn't as great due to the mods, but for me, I drive it all the time - to work, to dinner in the evening, etc. and the mods make that better. Its a fun car to drive, as you all probably know! And nothing beats heading to work in a Harrington and having people pull out their iPhones as soon as you come by so they can document it! Actually, the biggest issue was the length of time that it had been off the road, so needed all the hydraulics rebuilt and the front end. Also did an alternator conversion. The steering is still a bit too stiff for my taste too. Otherwise, it was alot cheaper than I would have spent to bring a basket case back. And good original cars? Not that I know of!
I have a Series I E-Type that is all original down to the pos grnd and generator, interior, etc. That's my all original car. So sorry if the mods upset some, but for me, its just right!
alpine_64
Donation Time
Great to see the car is being used.. and good to know you will sort out the maintenece.. so often people just assume that things being a bit heavy or rattles are just how they were as they are an "old car".. alpines have quite nice light steering from new and are wuite rattle free. You will find much help on the board.. ask any questions you need to.. there are also some very enthusiastic harrington owners.
Thanks! That's a really generous offer.
My issues right now are two. One, I think I need the steering bo rebuilt as its the last factor in my heavy steering. Is there a way to do it without taking the box out of the car? How hard is that?
Second, I have had a string of coils fail at a rate of about one per week. What could cause that? Is it to do with ballast or is that only a danger to the points?
Thanks!
My issues right now are two. One, I think I need the steering bo rebuilt as its the last factor in my heavy steering. Is there a way to do it without taking the box out of the car? How hard is that?
Second, I have had a string of coils fail at a rate of about one per week. What could cause that? Is it to do with ballast or is that only a danger to the points?
Thanks!
alpine_64
Donation Time
Onthe steering.. it could be a few things.. a quick check of the front lower ball joints might be a good start. A few years back there were a batch for the later style suspension that were manufactured without grease in them.. and others have had the rubber protecting them split and allow dirt/road grime in which cuases the joint to rust.. inspect them.. peel the rubber back and have a look.. if they start to rust/seize they will cause heavy steering and slow self centring. if all ball joints and tie rods are fine check the level of grease in the steering box.. if its low refill with a lithium grease.. if it needs rebuilding.. its probably best to take it out.
On the coil.. im not great with electrics on these.. but check the voltage regulator or check that the ignition is actually turning off fully and now keeping the auxilery power on.
Ken Ellis
Donation Time
Like Michael said, check for 12V at the coil when car is off/key out. A bad ign. switch could do it. Or, leaving the key in "run" for awhile without the engine running. But "weekly" would seem to indicate some component or wiring issue.
To Bill's point, ballast resistor failure (or absence) is also a candidate. I think dwell/point gap can enter into play, too -- although I'm not sure about the one-week lifespan if it's just points, unless they're essentially closed all the time.
A complete trace of the ign. wiring is in order...
To Bill's point, ballast resistor failure (or absence) is also a candidate. I think dwell/point gap can enter into play, too -- although I'm not sure about the one-week lifespan if it's just points, unless they're essentially closed all the time.
A complete trace of the ign. wiring is in order...
RootesRooter
Donation Time
Was the steering equally heavy before the front-end rebuild? How much was rebuilt?
I'd try the grease/oil checks per the previous post before diving into the steering box. It's usually not the reason for stiffness - unless it's been bone dry for a long time. Another possibility is that a PO decided to 'tighten up' the typical sloppiness in Alpine steering by removing a shim from under the steering box cover.
Dick Sanders
Kent, WA
P.S. Can't believe you left your Harrington parked on Pike St. in downtown Seattle on a Saturday night!
I'd try the grease/oil checks per the previous post before diving into the steering box. It's usually not the reason for stiffness - unless it's been bone dry for a long time. Another possibility is that a PO decided to 'tighten up' the typical sloppiness in Alpine steering by removing a shim from under the steering box cover.
Dick Sanders
Kent, WA
P.S. Can't believe you left your Harrington parked on Pike St. in downtown Seattle on a Saturday night!
Can't find a picture of the car, so I'll ask, what kind of wheels does the car have? The wrong offset will cause heavy steering and the Alpine uses wheels with a 1 1/4" offset, which is rather hard to find. Quite often they end up with aftermarket wheels intended for the Mustang II which have only about 3/4" offset. It works, but not well.
Bill
Bill
Steering was much heavier before the front end rebuild. I have come to the conclusion its the ball joints with no capacity to hold grease. I hope to replace them. Having cleaned them up and lubed them as well as possible, things are better no, although still not right. Replaced the coil with the correct one and now hold my breath and have a spare in the boot but so far so good.
On to my new problem: When the car is cold (into the 30's here now) the clutch won't disengage correctly; very low if at all. Once warms up, its in the just the right place about half way up. I have had many cars but never experienced this before. You guys are great and have already saved my a bunch of time and money! THANKS!
On to my new problem: When the car is cold (into the 30's here now) the clutch won't disengage correctly; very low if at all. Once warms up, its in the just the right place about half way up. I have had many cars but never experienced this before. You guys are great and have already saved my a bunch of time and money! THANKS!
I will try to post a pic of the wheels. Thanks!
Harrington Jan
Donation Time
car has w/w. pic can be seen at Harrington web-site, Registry II chassinumber B9115932